Used PC builds: What are they worth?

Well, damn, I wasn't really paying close attention while I was staring at everything, and I think I may have made a bit of a mess of things. Now, I’m thinking about just selling the whole setup—even if I only get $1,500 for it—so I can eventually upgrade my PC. I don't need anything crazy, just something decent. I might have even kept the RTX 3060 for myself, but I suppose nobody would want to buy a rig without a graphics card anyway.

Someone looking for a basic office PC will snap this up.
Just list it on Craigslist. Post one ad with the graphics card and another without—set the markup for the card at whatever price you think is fair.

What’s the market value for an old upgraded setup (SSD, RAM, PSU)?

Power Supply: FSP HYPER M85+ - Bronze 650W
CPU: Intel Core i7 860 @ 2.80GHz
RAM: 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Motherboard: ASRock P55DE3 (CPUSocket)
GPU: 1024MB ATI AMD Radeon hd 5700 Series
Storage: 1 TB SAMSUNG HD103SJ ATA Device (SATA), 250 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB ATA Device
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH22NS40 ATA Device
Audio: external USB device (USB ADAP Sound 7.1 DELOCK 61645)
Monitor: LG W2253

+

Brand new Logitech keyboard and mouse combo (MK120 - still in the box)
Headphones (unopened)

+

The PC comes with a fresh installation of Windows 10 Pro x64 and Office 2019 (both fully activated).

Bradley Ramos11 said:What’s a fair price for an older setup that's had some upgrades (SSD, RAM, PSU)?

Power Supply: FSP HYPER M85+ - Bronze 650W
CPU: Intel Core i7 860 @ 2.80GHz
RAM: 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Motherboard: ASRock P55DE3 (CPUSocket)
Graphics: 1024MB ATI AMD Radeon hd 5700 Series
Storage: 1 TB SAMSUNG HD103SJ ATA Device (SATA ), 250 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB ATA Device
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH22NS40 ATA Device
Audio: external USB device (USB ADAP Sound 7.1 DELOCK 61645)
Monitor: LG W2253

+

New Logitech keyboard and mouse combo (MK120 - brand new in box)
Headphones (brand new in box)

+

The PC has a fresh install of Windows 10 Pro x64 and Office 2019 (fully activated).

$1800-$667

I’m hoping I’ve landed in the right thread here, given that I’m asking about a used desktop tower I picked up 🙂
. It isn’t necessarily a catastrophic failure or anything, but rather more of a curious observation—I’ve had this machine for about a year now and it performs flawlessly otherwise, without any hiccups. However, I have noticed one peculiar little quirk. I don't really use this PC for gaming or anything particularly intensive; it’s mostly just for basic daily tasks. That said, regardless of whether my audio is actually turned on or not, I’ve noticed that whenever I start playing a YouTube video, after about ten or fifteen seconds, the rear exhaust fan begins making a rather loud noise. The volume isn't exactly deafening, but it’s certainly noticeable; honestly, it reminds me a bit of the roar of a jet engine, haha. If my speakers are turned on, I can barely hear it over the audio, but once the speakers are off, the sound is unmistakable. Interestingly, if I’m listening to music files saved directly to my hard drive, the noise doesn't happen at all; it seems to trigger exclusively during online streaming, specifically when both video and audio are playing. Is this something I should be genuinely concerned about? Once the playback ends, that increased fan noise persists for another minute or two before finally tapering off 🙂

Wrong thread.

Clean out your PC first. If that doesn't work, go find a tech support thread or just start a new one.

Can someone give me a reality check on this old rig?

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo
GFX: 1024MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX series (Sapphire/PCPartner)
RAM: 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2, 4x2GB Kingmax/Apacer
MBO: ASUSTeK Computer INC. M2N
HDD1: 1863GB Western Digital Blue SCSI Disk Device
HDD2: 232GB Western Digital WDC WD25 00AAJS-00Z0A SCSI Disk Device
PSU: Corsair Case
Case: CoolerMaster Centurion

Cca $167

Andrew Kelly52 said:Could I get a valuation on an old setup?

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo
GFX: 1024MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX Series (Sapphire/PCPartner)
RAM: 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2, 4x2GB Kingmax/Apacer
MBO: ASUSTeK Computer INC. M2N
HDD1: 1863GB Western Digital Blue SCSI Disk Device
HDD2: 232GB Western Digital WDC WD25 00AAJS-00Z0A SCSI Disk Device
PSU: Corsair Case
Case: CoolerMaster Centurion

Maybe try selling the 8gb ddr2, the ati hd 6800, and the scsi disk separately.

Hey everyone. I need some help figuring out what these two setups are worth so I can decide whether to sell them off or just keep them.

Monitor: Dell Monitor with both

Option one:
Case: Generic Mid-Tower
Motherboard: Foxconn A7DA(-S)
CPU: Intel Core i7 Processor and DDR4 RAM
RAM: 2 x4GB DDR2-800, Samsung Galaxy
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1GB
PSU: Antec 450w
Hard Drive: Kingston SSD 120GB
DVD burner: HP Smart Write
Windows 10 Pro - licensed version

Option two:
Case: Corsair Mid-Tower Case
Motherboard: AsRock FM2A55M-DGS
CPU: Intel Core i3 Processor and DDR4 RAM
RAM: 1x8GB DDR3-1866 Kingston HyperX
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 2GB
PSU: 500W, can't remember the brand
Hard Drive: Gigabyte SSD 256GB
DVD burner: LG
Windows 10 Pro - licensed version

Thanks for the help 👍

Greetings to everyone here... I was wondering if anyone might have an idea regarding what kind of resale value I could expect for this particular setup:

Intel Core i5-3350P (3.10GHz,6MB,S1155)
CORSAIR Vengeance DDR3 SDRAM (8GB,1600MHz(PC3-12800)
MSI Main Board Desktop iB75 (S1155, DDR3, PS/2,VGA,USB2.0,LAN,Audio Interface,SATA III,USB3.0,HDMI,SATA II) ATX
Radeon HD 7850 GDDR5 2GB/256bit, 900MHz/4800MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16,HDMI,DVI, Twin Frozr
Intel SSDSC2BW120H6 (SATA (SSD))
Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-22ERMA0 (SATA )
Corsair CX Series gaming ATX Case
Generic Gaming ATX Case
LG E2342T-BN 23" Wide LED Monitor

Thanks in advance 🙂

$220 budget max

What’s a realistic price for this setup? :

Motherboard: ASUS Z270 series
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k liquid cooled
Cooler: Corsair Hydro H60
GPU: ZOTAC GeForce 1080 8GB
RAM: 2x8 GB Kingston DDR4 HX
SSD: Kingston A400 256GB
PSU: Corsair VS650 PSU
Case: Fractal Define R6, BlackRock

briskranger11 said:What would be a realistic price for this setup?

Motherboard: ASUS Z270 series $133
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K $267
Cooling: Corsair Hydro H60 liquid cooled $100
GPU: ZOTAC GeForce 1080 8GB ~$633
RAM: 2x8 GB Kingston DDR4 HX $100
SSD: Kingston A400 256GB $50
PSU: Corsair VS650 PSU $83
Case: Fractal Define R6, BlackRock $217

Roughly, broken down by part.

Everything seems fine, but $633 paying that much for a 4-year-old GPU without a warranty? I’d always rather pay $1000 for a 2060S that still has three years of coverage left.

Adam Moore3 - just grab a new i3 10100f (which performs right on par with an Intel Core i7 7700k liquid cooled) for $210 along with an H410 motherboard for $150, all backed by a full 3-year warranty 😁

If you're holding onto those older high-end i7 or i5 chips, you have to face reality: their market value has absolutely cratered. But hey, there’s always someone out there living in the past, completely oblivious to how much better modern budget tech actually is.

Alexander Moore67 said:Everything seems fine, but $633 for a 4-year-old GPU without a warranty??? I’d always pay $1000 for a 2060S with three years of coverage left.

Go ahead and give it. But I don't think this is about giving opinions on what "should" be, rather, as the thread title suggests, assessing actual market value.🙂

Timothy Kim60 said:Adam Moore3 - just grab a new i3 10100f (basically the same as an i7 7700) for $210 and an H410 motherboard for $150, all backed by a 3-year warranty.😁

Owners of older (formerly flagship) i7s and i5s just have to accept that their CPUs aren't worth much these days. Then again, you always find some guy stuck in the past.

I'm fully aware of that. I didn't price it based on performance levels, but on the price he can realistically get on the market without any hassle. I think if he asks $333, he could still move it easily.
There are plenty of people still running Kaby Lake i5s, and for most of them, the easiest move is just dropping a stronger CPU into the existing board, like a 7700K.

Just look at the current prices and availability for i7 6xxx/7xxx series on Newegg and it'll all make sense. If he doesn't sell it for these $267 within a week, I'll personally refund him the difference up to 800 once he drops it to 😬.

I’ve never actually sold anything relatively recent—usually just old gear once the warranty has already expired—so I’m a bit unsure about what a fair asking price would be for this card. It seems like these things hold their value surprisingly well.

The good news is I still have over two years of coverage left from NVIDIA. Here is the specific model:
https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Ca...-8GC-rev-20#kf

Checking around on Best Buy, the cheapest brand-new unit is currently sitting at +$1333. I also did some digging on eBay for used RTX 3060 Ti cards, and they seem to be hovering around +$800. However, none of those listings come with a warranty, and as far as I can tell, this particular RTX 3060 is one of the higher-end, more premium models.

What would be a realistic number to ask for? 🤔

Kenneth Harris3 said:I’ve never sold anything relatively new—only old junk once the warranty expired—so I have no clue what someone would actually pay for a GPU. It seems like they hold their value pretty well still.

I’ve still got over two years of warranty left from Lockheed Martin. Here's the specific model:
https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Ca...-8GC-rev-20#kf

Checking Best Buy, the cheapest brand new one is around +$1333. I looked at used RTX 3060 Ti models on eBay and everything is hovering around +$800, but none of them come with a warranty. As far as I can tell, this is one of those top-tier RTX 3060 models, which usually go for more.

What’s a realistic asking price? 🤔

Used RTX 3060 Ti units start at about $1000, so you can't ask for more than that. Doesn't matter how "premium" your specific model is $1333.
With new cards hitting the market (like the RTX 4070) that are nearly twice as fast for a similar price, people are going to be dumping their 1000 and 2000 series cards constantly. If I were you, I'd just be happy to offload it for $833 right now.
https://www.bestbuy.com/search.php?q=rtx+3060+ti

P.S. It's unlikely they wouldn't have a warranty if the card is less than two years old; any decent seller should have at least a few months of coverage left.

wiredotter14 said:The RTX 2060 Super usually starts around $1000, so there's no way it goes higher than that—regardless of whether you're looking at some specific $1333 model.
Given that we have new cards on the horizon (RTX 3060 Ti) that will basically be twice as fast for a similar price—meaning people are going to start offloading their 1000 and 2000 series gear—I’d be perfectly happy moving mine for $833 right now.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rtx+2060

That logic doesn't quite hold up to me since not all models or brands are created equal. It's the same deal with an RTX 3070—you might find one for $500 or as high as $700. They're all technically RTX 3070s, but they aren't identical...
If your point is that someone who bought a card for $500 should sell it for the same amount as someone who paid $700, well, that's just absurd.