Deals, Discounts, and Best PC Component Buys & Builds

Honestly, I’d almost want to get this mouse just to prove all you skeptics wrong, rather than for the mouse itself 😬

Honestly, I have no idea how you arrived at 12 or 13. To me, it just looks like a solid opportunity, but certainly nothing earth-shattering. 🤔

Timothy Kim60 said:nemesis $143is

Hey there.
Does anyone have a solid recommendation for some high-performance 140mm fans? I’m looking for something powerful yet incredibly quiet—like, whisper-quiet. 😁

David Sanders4 said:but I have no clue how you landed on 12 or 13; to me, that just looks like a solid deal, though nothing earth-shattering🤔

Alright then, build it up component by component and you'll hit that 12k mark.

EDIT:

1 x ASUS Z97-A, s1150, ATX, Intel ® H97 express
1 x Intel Core i5-4690 (3.50GHz,1MB,6MB,84 W,1150) Box
1 x Gigabyte GTX970 WF3 OC 4GB GDDR5, GV-N970WF3OC, 256 bit,
2 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, Kingston Fury, HX318C10F
1 x HDD Seagate 1TB, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, ST1000DM003
1 x Intel 120GB SSD 525, mSATA 25mm, R/W:550/457MB/s
1 x Napajanje Corsair 600W CX Series, 600 Watt, ATX, CMPSU-600CXV2EU
1 x Cooler Master Hyper T4
1 x Cooler Master Case, with window
1 x Dell E2414H 24", 1920x1080, LED, fast 5ms respose time, 1000:1
1 x Razer Naga 2014, 19 MMO optimiziranih programabilnih tipki
1 x Logitech G105 Gaming Keyboard, USB, žična, Korištenje do pet tip

$3980admin.us

Some items weren't available so I swapped them for something similar. A controller isn't included here either.

So, we have some fresh components here! Though, honestly, who knows where he actually picked these up? The keyboard isn't even a domestic model, and I’d bet my money that the peripherals are at least five months old—which is plenty of time for the price to be dropped by about 30% compared to buying everything brand new from Best Buy. Still, it’s a pretty solid deal when you look at what else is popping up on eBay! It would definitely be a smart move for someone looking for an upgrade, or even if they're planning on flipping it later for a profit. 🕺

What is wrong with you people? Of course it’s significantly cheaper if it’s used, maybe overclocked, and so on.

Back to the overclocking talk again, 😁 I’d much rather see a GPU pushed to its limits via overclocking—since that was the only real option here—than see someone running hardware without thermal paste applied...

Furthermore, used gear never fetches half its original price, at least when we're talking about newer components that you can still find sitting on the shelves at Best Buy.

When you stumble upon a high-end build that’s perfectly assembled, comes with all the warranties intact, a nearly complete set of peripherals, and an aftermarket cooler—all for half the original retail price—that is a massive win. If we were talking about some ancient setup with zero warranty, I might see your point, but this rig is only five months old. On top of that, everything still carries more than two years of coverage.

Timothy Kim60 said:You're back on that overclocking nonsense again. 😁 I'd much rather deal with a GPU that's been pushed way too hard—since that was the only option left—than run a rig without thermal paste.

My Phenom never touched an overclocked clock speed in its life. When I list it on Craigslist, it'll be a much better buy than some unstable, overclocked Phenom from the same era.

...well, I suppose you're right there

rowdybadger18 said:My Phenom never once ran at overclocked speeds. When I list it on Craigslist, it’ll be a much better pick than some overclocked Phenom of the same age.

🤣

Overclocking isn't inherently the issue here; the real "problem" with OC-ing is if you push things way past the limit—specifically elevated temperatures. It's an aspect most people completely overlook 😁

Look, if someone overclocked strictly by the book and kept their temps within the recommended range (around 60-70°C), then their CPU is in just as good shape as yours. At the end of the day, heat is the single biggest enemy of hardware components.

So, I’ll just list some guy's name on Google, set a low price for the Phenom, offer shipping via USPS with COD, and laugh when one of you forum dwellers falls for it. 🤣 Anyway, you claim increased voltage doesn't hurt the processor? I beg to differ.

rowdybadger18 said:So my plan is to list some guy's name on Google, set a dirt-cheap price for a Phenom, offer mail delivery via COD, and just laugh when one of you guys falls for it. 🤣 Anyway, you're claiming that overvolting doesn't hurt the processor? I beg to differ.

And why exactly is overvolting such a problem?

🙂

You don't have to agree with me, but your logic is about as sound as saying the Earth is flat.

Timothy Kim60 said:Why exactly is overvolting such a headache?

Because the CPU is engineered for a specific (lower!) voltage range. By that logic, why don't you just shove 300 volts into the power supply instead of 120?😁

rowdybadger18 said:If the processor is designed for a specific (lower!) voltage, why not just feed the power supply 300 volts instead of 230? 😁

What would be the point of doing that, though? Since that voltage is going to be transformed regardless...

David Sanders4 said:What would be the point? That voltage ends up getting transformed anyway...

That move wouldn't affect anything except the power supply, obviously. 😉 But indirectly... it could cause some serious problems.

First off, stock voltage—we’re talking about the CPU voltage being around 1.2V on most motherboards, whether you're running air or liquid cooling. If you want to overclock, you have to bump the voltage past a certain point, but you don't just crank it past 1.4V unless you're playing with liquid nitrogen. You aren't jumping to 230V or whatever nonsense you're claiming.
Your Phenom is going to fry first because it’s poorly cooled and running way hotter than what the manufacturer intended. An overclocked chip with decent cooling will hold up way better than yours.

Robert Rodriguez2 said:Standard voltage—meaning CPU voltage—is usually around 1.2V on most motherboards using air or water cooling. If you want to overclock, you have to bump up the voltage past a certain point, but you don't go over 1.4V unless you're doing extreme cooling like liquid nitrogen. It’s definitely not 230V like you're claiming.
Your Phenom is going to fry first because it's being inadequately cooled and running way past manufacturer limits, rather than some overclocked chip that's actually properly cooled despite the higher voltage.

I hate being portrayed as some idiot who thinks a processor runs on 230 volts just because someone else lacks basic reading comprehension. Actually, I don't hate it—it's almost funny. But people like you tend to flock together, creating a public consensus that I'm the stupid one.😁

P.S. It's voltage, not voltáža!

rowdybadger18 said:If the CPU is designed for a specific (lower!) voltage, why don't you just feed it 300 volts instead of 230? 😁

Raising voltage equals raising temperature. Once you hit the thermal wall—where you simply can't cool it effectively at X voltage anymore—that's the limit. Anything beyond that is just bad overclocking caused by heat generated by pushing too much voltage through the hardware you actually have (motherboard and cooler)

Saying something is "designed" for a certain voltage is a very relative concept; for example,

Since we are talking about power draw, manufacturers seriously overdid it with the voltage on FX processors. If you're using an FX chip, the first thing you should do is disable the Turbo option in the BIOS. If you're happy with the speed, you should undervolt it—meaning, find the absolute lowest voltage required for stable operation. That way, the processor runs cooler, the motherboard stays cooler, the surrounding components stay cooler, and you save a little bit on your electric bill...

I know a few guys who pulled 4.6GHz out of an FX8320 at just 1.35v; even here on the forums, one guy on Tomislavov hardware managed 5.1GHz at 1.38v!

In my case, the CPU runs at 4.4GHz @ 1.368v, whereas at stock speeds of 3.5GHz, the voltage was 1.4v. This means the processor is overclocked yet undervolted, so it's faster while consuming less power than the factory settings... with Turbo enabled, the voltage used to spike up to 1.45v, so I personally recommend disabling it; in my opinion, it does more harm than good...

I believe every FX8320 can handle 4.0GHz @ 1.35v, some even much more. Some might only need under 1.3v for 4.0GHz, but it all depends on the silicon lottery; you have to play around with it.

Regarding that second sentence, 🐔

End of story, as far as I'm concerned ☕

I’ve never heard a story quite like this one regarding the FX8320. Thanks for the heads-up. 😉