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Overclocking (Main Thread)

Started by dustypilot23 · · 👁 109 views · 3.3K replies

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Participants dustypilot23Morgan Ortiz69John Palmer4driftingnomad68neonhawk53rustyrider40brightgull15boldhound8Bradley Myers2driftingmarlin34Aelectriceagle40placidrangeramberorca192Rebecca Parkerwiredjackal7goldenowl73Jose Cook17Tyler Lee57Alex Palmer66Grace Palmer39Scott Morris8briskheron10Thomas Ward9 …
Steven Scott10 Steven Scott10 Newcomer
4 messages
joined Oct 2021
#981 ·
Read this if you actually want a decent motherboard,
Overclocking -
Overclocking a Core 2 Duo processor is a relatively straightforward task, though I suppose it largely depends on your motherboard—specifically, its ability to push the CPU to its absolute limits. Our first attempt at overclocking was, frankly, a disaster. The Epox board we were using, which featured a P965 chipset, just wasn't up to the job. It lacked any real overclocking potential, and even though that chipset is usually reliable in this department, things were made worse by some questionable design choices regarding the memory. For some strange reason, the manufacturer decided to omit the current memory frequency relative to the FSB in the BIOS. This meant the user was forced to manually calculate the clock speeds based on the FSB and the memory multiplier. It’s a clumsy setup, especially for anyone just starting out. In the end, we gave up on Epox and switched to the aforementioned Abit board, which we knew could actually handle some pressure.

Hitting 2.8 GHz without raising voltage

When you're overclocking, there are a few things you really ought to watch out for. Ideally, you should find the maximum FSB frequency the motherboard can handle right away. To do this, you should lower the CPU multiplier so the actual operating speed doesn't compromise system stability. You also have to be mindful of memory ratios (1:1, 4:3, 5:4, etc.) and the NB strap values in the BIOS; you essentially try to keep the memory frequency as close to its rated speed (533, 667, or 800 MHz) as possible by balancing those two values. Experienced users might also identify the maximum possible memory frequency, which becomes a key target. Once that's settled, we return the CPU multiplier to its highest setting and gradually ramp up the FSB, keeping a close eye on the memory frequency and testing the overall system stability, particularly the CPU. Just to warm things up a bit, without bumping up the voltage, we pushed the CPU from its default 1.8 GHz to 2.8 GHz, roughly 1000MHz. The processor handled the strain without much fuss, which led us to get a little too optimistic about what was possible.

Ceiling at 3.3GHz

As you can see from the results, 3.3 GHz was the final stable frequency we managed to squeeze out of this processor. Beyond that, it simply wouldn't go, regardless of how much voltage we threw at it or what combinations we tried. From what I've read online, these processors can reach 3.6 GHz or even higher, but our very early Intel test sample wasn't exactly in the mood for extra effort. The last frequency where we could actually boot into Windows was slightly under 3.6 GHz, but there was no way it would stay stable enough to run a single test. The ideal scenario for overclocking is when you hit the maximum stable CPU clock combined with the highest memory frequency at the lowest possible latencies. In practice, if you have memory that hits a max speed of 900MHz at 4-4-4-15 latencies, you try to maximize the CPU speed while maintaining those specific memory settings. That way, you end up with a high CPU clock paired with fast, low-latency memory for the best results. But that's just the tip of the iceberg; performance depends on countless other details we won't dive into here.

Super PI at 3.3GHz

Even though the voltage shown in the image is 1.55 volts, this test sample is actually capable of running normally at 3.3 GHz with just 1.45 volts; the higher voltage in the photo was merely an attempt to chase even higher speeds. The maximum temperature the CPU reached at this clock speed was 42 °C, though that was achieved in an exceptionally well-ventilated case (with 3x120 mm fans) and under a Zalman cooler, so the conditions were more than adequate. One of the main complaints in other tests is usually the operating temperature at max clock speeds, but that didn't seem to be an issue for us. Interestingly, the CPU hits 3.0 GHz easily at factory voltages, but once you try to go faster, you immediately need to bump the voltage above 1.4 volts. Judging by the various results floating around the web, I guess that's just a general rule of thumb.
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#982 ·
Steven Scott10 said:Read this if you want to know what a real motherboard looks like.
🙂

Copied from PC Enthusiast🙄
And they still don't even mention which motherboard it is.🙄 👎
Steven Scott10 Steven Scott10 Newcomer
4 messages
joined Oct 2021
#983 ·
quote: They still haven't mentioned which motherboard was used
The board from the test is an Abit AW9 Max.
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#984 ·
northerncrane33 said:I’ve actually been thinking about picking up a new rig for about three months now...🙄😳
Thinking of going with something like this:
E4400
Gigabyte P35-DS3
2GB Kingmax
Gigabyte x1950pro
Chieftec 550W.......

If you think there's anything worth swapping out, let me know...
I can grab parts at HG-spot or Ve-mil👎


That looks like a really solid selection, though I'm not entirely sure if you realized that specific Chieftec unit only puts out about 360W on the +12V rail... and since Kingmax isn't quite the budget steal it used to be, you might want to consider looking into Supertalent or maybe some Crucial Value options instead...🙂
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#985 ·
wiredmarlin5 said:Solid choices, but do you even realize that Chieftec only puts out 360W on the +12V rail? It's cutting it close. Also, Kingmax isn't exactly the budget option anymore. You might want to look into Supertalent or Crucial Value instead. 🙂

So, why don't you just suggest something else from Ve-mil or Hg-spot at a higher price point?🙂
So, I'm looking at my power supply. How exactly do you calculate what matters on the +12V rail? Right now, I've got a Chieftec 300W unit that puts out 15A on the +12V line. Someone just give me a quick breakdown of how this works.😘
What kind of supertalent ??? Crucial???🙏 🙏 🙏
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#986 ·
I was actually eyeing that supertalent stuff from ADM and maybe some Crucial gear over at Links. You should definitely take a look and see what fits your needs, but if you ask me, those meme brands are still a step up from Kingmax 🙂

You really need to keep an eye on that 12V rail, since that’s where all the juice goes for modern builds... If it's rated at 10A, then you're looking at 120W, because you just multiply the Amps by 12 to get the Watts

The real headache is how manufacturers tend to stretch the truth when they list their specs... for instance, my Fortron unit claims to have two rails, one at 15A and the other at 16A, and some people use questionable math to think that adds up to 31A, which would be 372W... But that isn't how it works at all... because my actual power supply only puts out 23.75A, or about 285W total. The issue is that those two rails can't both hit their maximum output at the exact same time...

So, you can never truly be certain... you really have to hunt down real-world tests performed with actual measuring instruments if you want the truth. Sometimes, if you're lucky, a manufacturer will provide tables on their official websites where you can see exactly how much power all the rails can provide simultaneously

Take that Chieftech 550W with three rails, for example... in reality, only two can run at once, and even then, they won't hit their peak capacity, topping out at 360W

It's like how Corsair and Seasonic don't play those games; a 520W Corsair unit is often going to be more robust than a 650W Chieftech, and so on

My girlfriend is hanging out here with me and she's nagging me to wrap this up, so I hope I've been able to help you out a little bit 🙂
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#987 ·
wiredmarlin5 said:I was looking at the supertalent stuff from ADM and Crucial from Links. Check whatever fits your needs, but personally, I think those brands beat Kingmax any day. 🙂

Focus on the 12V rail since that's where modern rigs pull their juice... If it's 10A, that's 120W. You just multiply Amps by 12 to get Watts.

The issue is how manufacturers lie about it. For example, my Fortron supposedly has two rails—one at 15A and one at 16A—so people use some broken math to think they have 31A, which equals 372W. It doesn't work like that. My PSU actually only puts out 23.75A, or 285W. The problem is you can't max out both rails simultaneously.

So you're never really sure. You have to find actual bench tests using real measuring tools if you want the truth. Sometimes manufacturers include tables on their websites showing what all the rails can handle at once.

Take a three-rail Chieftec 550W, for instance... you can only run two rails at once, and even then, not at full capacity (only 360W).

Brands like Corsair and Seasonic don't play those games. That’s why a 520W Corsair unit is actually more powerful than a 650W Chieftec.

My girlfriend is here nagging me to wrap this up. Hope that helped. 🙂

Damn, why didn't you mention your girl was there? 😁 👍
Thanks. I need to go check on my order status at ADM...
Later...🙂
ruggedsailor86 ruggedsailor86 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Aug 2007
#988 ·
Here’s my beast:
Manufacturer:ASUSTEK COMPUTER INC
Processor:Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6420 @ 2.13GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory:2048MB RAM
Hard Drive:160 GB Total
Video Card:Nvidia GeForce 8800 GTS 640 mb RAM
Monitor:LG L1750SQ
Sound Card:Realtek HD Audio output
Speakers / Headphones:Razer Baraccud
Keyboard : Razer Tarantla Mouse : Razer Copperhead Mouse Surface : Razer Mantis speed
Mouse: Razer Copperhead
Mouse Surface: Razer Mantis speed

Now I'm wondering if it's even worth it to try some overclocking on this thing?!
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#989 ·
Man, I totally hear you! But wait, what kind of motherboard are we talking about here? Because if you’ve actually got a decent board in that rig... you could probably push that processor up to somewhere in the 3.3 - 3.7GHz range with some solid overclocking... As for the graphics card, just run the overclock through RivaTuner, though you didn't mention what kind of RAM you're running, did you?
ruggedsailor86 ruggedsailor86 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Aug 2007
#990 ·
The motherboard is an Asus P5W-DH deluxe, which isn't half bad, but I haven't the slightest clue what kind of memory we're dealing with here. I know the board can handle up to 8GB, though I'm not entirely certain if I should go ahead and install all 8GB right now.
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#991 ·
So, I've got my E4400 running at 2.75 GHz on an ASUS ROG Maximus without even touching the voltage...👍
I'll post more details tonight. Stay tuned.
It's a stepping 2, by the way.
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#992 ·
3.00 GHz without even touching the voltage....☕
Super Pi 20s

EDIT: Super Pi 19s 😎
darkhawk76 darkhawk76 Member
12 messages
joined Jan 2007
#993 ·
My Rig😁:
  • CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K, 2400 @ 3433 MHz (9 x 381)
    CPU FSB 381.0 MHz (stock: 266 MHz, OC: 43%)
    DRAM:FSB Ratio 10:8
  • Mobo: Alienware m18 (4 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Dual Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
  • RAM: 2048 MB (DDR2-800 @ ~1066 MHz)
  • GPU: Gainward 8800 GTX, 768 MB, @576/1900 MHz
  • Audio: SigmaTel STAC9708/11 @ Creative EMU10K1 SB Live! Audio Processor + Logitech Speakers
  • Storage: 1230 GB (WD 500GB + Seagate 320GB + Maxtor 250GB + Maxtor 160GB, all 7200rpm)


S_PI: 14.875 sec (1Milion)
northerncrane33 northerncrane33 Active Member
205 messages
joined Jun 2007
#994 ·
Super PI Raspberry Pi 4

Still trying to dial in my latencies. Right now I'm sitting at 900MHz with 5-6-6-21😕
Any advice?
Brandon Carter17 Brandon Carter17 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Sep 2011
#995 ·
Hey -> since this is basically the sanctuary for overclockers 🙂 I wanted to pick your brains about something. I've got this CPU http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1606/rgrgr0.jpg...and my stock FSB speeds in the BIOS are sitting at 133... man, I really want to push this thing, obviously, but here's the deal: if I try to bump it up to 139 or 140, the whole system just hits a wall. Like, the fans spin up and everything sounds fine, but it won't boot at all. No luck there. I can always get back to the defaults by resetting the BIOS, but I can't seem to squeeze out any more speed... anyone know why I'm hitting this limit? Help me out here :S
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#996 ·
My current rig (it's not quite overclocked yet)

image
Brandon Carter17 Brandon Carter17 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Sep 2011
#997 ·
wiredmarlin5 said:My rig (not fully overclocked yet)

image

Yo, check out the second to last page and look at my last post... I really need some help here 😛 btw nice one 😁
Where do I even download that benchmark tool? xD
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#998 ·
I can't seem to get your image to load on my end, but I'm guessing you're probably running one of those older AMD chips... I've actually got a Pentium 4 sitting right here myself, and honestly, those things just weren't built for any serious overclocking, so you might be better off just calling it quits now before you run into trouble...

Which meter are we talking about?
Brandon Carter17 Brandon Carter17 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Sep 2011
#999 ·
wiredmarlin5 said:I can't get your image to load, but you probably have one of those older AMD chips (I'm rocking a Pentium 4 myself) and those things just aren't built for overclocking, so you might be better off calling it quits.

Which benchmark are we talking about?

3DMark, lol... I've got like 2000+ Athlons lying around, they run fine at 1.69 GHz ^^
As for overclocking the RAM, I've got two identical sticks (256MB - 166MHz), so they should play nice together...🙂
wiredmarlin5 wiredmarlin5 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Apr 2009
#1000 ·
http://www.futuremark.com/products/3dmark05/

You can grab it right here

And honestly, I wouldn't touch the overclocking settings just yet, because you won't really gain much from it right now... Once you finally get your hands on that shiny new rig and have some time to actually settle in and get comfortable with how everything runs... then, and only then, should you start pushing those speeds as high as your heart desires...

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