I've messed around with a few different sites, and honestly, it’s such a pain because that six-hour wait is just brutal... plus, some of them cap you at a 2GB file limit, which doesn't help much at all.
ajmoplavi So, I saw some folks mentioning that Windows 7 is officially losing its updates and support... Honestly, it doesn't matter much if you've already moved on, but if you're still trying to run it on a newer laptop, you'll probably run into a wall. Since those newer machines don't really play nice with USB 3.0 drivers during an old setup, you'll likely just hit that error message again. My two cents? Just stick with Windows 10.
Do you have anything important sitting on your system partition? If not—and I mean really nothing you can't live without—just go ahead and format it. A clean installation of macOS should wipe out the problem entirely...
You really should have uninstalled everything from your Seagate drive before pulling it out—just because you disconnected the hardware doesn't mean the files are actually gone. Your macOS still thinks they're there. You should head into the Control Panel, find anything related to Epic Games, and uninstall it all. Once you've done that, just give your computer a quick restart and then try installing what you want again...
+1 I still remember when I picked one up for about $33 a few years back at a local Best Buy—I think it was either a 64GB or a 128GB memory card... I actually remember thinking to myself, "Man, this guy is selling this way too cheap." Of course, that was my first hint. It ended up being one of those situations where every single bit of data I owned just vanished—gone forever. Now, whenever I walk into a store, I just stare at the shelves and think about it.
Maybe the battery on the motherboard just drained completely? Honestly, it might be worth grabbing a new one—it’s probably the cheapest little fix you can try to figure out if the PC will even turn on at all. Since you mentioned the computer lost power entirely, anything could be happening... for instance, there's always the possibility that the motherboard itself finally gave up the ghost.
Maybe try testing the laptop without the battery plugged in... if it stays running fine without it, but shuts down whenever the battery is connected, then you've pretty much found your culprit right there.
Which laptop are we talking about here? If it’s only about a year old, I’d really suggest sticking with Windows 10—mostly because almost everything manufactured in the last three years was built specifically with Windows 10 drivers in mind. Plus, since support for older versions is going to wrap up in just a few months, you don't want to be left vulnerable, so definitely keep that in mind... As for the driver situation, if you happen to have an extra USB mouse lying around the house, that should make things a lot easier—you can just head over to the official manufacturer's website and download whatever else you need.
Anyone here have some hands-on experience with the Asus RTX 2080 Ti Advanced Edition cards? Are they actually worth it—any major pros or cons you've run into?
Well, I guess it all comes down to what you're actually looking for, right? It'll do exactly what you need it to do... though if you're just planning on gaming at 1080p, this card is definitely overkill.😁
silentcobra3 said:Where do you think I could tighten things up to make this better?
My biggest headache right now is definitely finding the right monitor. If I wasn't held up by that, I’d easily shell out the extra cash to grab an NVIDIA RTX 2060 Super instead of sticking with the NVIDIA GTX 1660 Ti.
No way, you've gotta be kidding me! People are out here recommending an Intel Core i5-9600K paired with an NVIDIA RTX 2060 Super? There is absolutely no way that setup is too weak. That's just wild.
Nobody is actually saying the Intel Core i5-9600K is too weak in this case—I'm just pointing out that people usually look at whether the CPU can keep up with the GPU, rather than the other way around, right?
vividbison47 said:Turns out I actually had to unplug my hard drive before installing Windows on the SSD—had zero clue about that, total rookie mistake. Everything is running smooth as silk now. Thanks for the help regardless.
I’ve gone years using an SSD paired with a 1TB hard drive, and whenever I installed Windows, I’d just select the SSD partition and call it a day—never ran into any issues. But hey, the main thing is that it's working now... anyway, go ahead and run that program I linked for you earlier.
I picked this up last year—back in December, actually—and man, what a game changer. I ditched the old mechanical drive entirely and just went with an SSD... honestly, $667 it was quite the investment, but you can't beat having a 2TB SSD...🙂
vividbison47 said:Hey, I picked up a new rig just two days ago, threw Windows on an SSD, and man, it was a total nightmare. It took like 10 minutes just to boot up. So, I did a fresh install of Windows, and it actually booted normally in seconds the first time—but now? Now it’s back to taking 10 minutes again. Everything is brand new, so I have zero clue what's going on here. Any advice? Please help me out.
Go ahead and grab CrystalDiskMark—just download it and run a quick test. It'll show you if your SSD speeds are actually hitting what the box promised. If they're way lower than expected, you might be looking at a hardware defect... which would be a bummer. Also, maybe try swapping out the SATA cable? Sometimes it’s just a faulty cable causing all the headaches.
neontinker5 said:Will it run on a 250W power supply? It says Suggested pas 350 w...
It should be fine—especially that first card. It doesn't even have a dedicated power connector, so it just pulls everything it needs straight from the PCIe slot. You shouldn't have any worries there..
With Windows 7 being phased out, Microsoft is basically cutting off support for AVG and all those other software "products"—they’ll eventually stop updating their stuff too, since official drivers for Windows 7 just won't exist anymore. It’s the same story with Intel and AMD; by 2019, you can barely find any motherboards on the market that actually support older versions of Windows unless you go through specialized niche vendors. At the end of the day, it's all about the bottom line. 😁
You didn't really give me much to work with here... what's the actual make and model of the laptop you're using? If this is an older machine, we might be looking at a physical issue with the hard drive—especially since you mentioned the installation keeps cutting out. P.S. Are you getting a specific error message or something else?