You can actually get it sorted if you wait about thirty minutes to an hour after posting or opening a new thread—otherwise, you're stuck. You'll pretty much have to reach out and ask a moderator to step in and delete it for you.
Did you make sure those USB drivers for the Wi-Fi are actually installed? And double-check—are you 100% certain the router password was entered correctly?
Check out the drive status using this https://osdn.net/projects/crystaldis...N/A.exe/ tool... By the way, what kind of case are you running? I'm curious if the hard drive is mounted on a flat surface.
I have a feeling you might have picked up some malware on your S9—it happens to the best of us. You should probably try resetting the phone to its factory settings? Or, if you want to try something else first, go into your settings, head over to device maintenance, tap on device security, and run a full scan...
If you ask me, this is a steal—I mean, you see some idiots on Craigslist listing systems with just 4GB of DDR2 RAM $67, yet this guy is letting the whole setup go for three grand... personally, I think it's a great deal.
The issue isn't really about Windows itself—or how much a repair shop might charge you for the installation—it’s more about what that product key ends up costing you.
You can actually grab the Windows files for free directly from Microsoft's official site, then just pick up a key on eBay. If that sounds a bit confusing, just shoot me a DM and I'll walk you through the whole thing.
I wouldn't mess around with that if I were you—mostly because laptops aren't like desktops where you can just swap a motherboard, boot it up, and call it a day. You’d have to hunt down a specific replacement board for that exact model, which is a massive headache these days since, looking at that processor, this machine is getting pretty old. Maybe you could try your luck on eBay if you're really feeling like tinkering, but honestly? From what I know about older laptops, the CPU is usually soldered right onto the board anyway. So, no matter how you slice it, you'd likely be replacing the entire motherboard, even if the current one is actually functioning fine.
My bad, I guess I overcomplicated things—when you're looking at a six-generation gap between processors, there really isn't much left to debate, is there? It's pretty much a no-brainer.
Alexander Moore67 said:If you think a Core i7-8700K is overkill for gaming, then tell me if a Core i5-2500K can still run every modern title after eight years. And why would I bother buying a motherboard for a Core i7-8700K today if it's only going to matter eight years from now compared to an i5-8600K? Also, please don't call me "buddy"—my buddies are long gone...
Look, nobody is saying the Core i5-2500K is a bad processor, but let's face it—time has simply moved past it. I'm currently running a GTX 1070, and my bottleneck is actually an i5 4670K (which is two generations newer than the one you mentioned). I know I’d see a massive jump in FPS if I finally upgraded my CPU generation. Besides, like someone else pointed out earlier, if you've got a couple hundred bucks sitting around, there isn't much point in sticking with an i5, even if it is a 6-core, 12-thread chip.
So, how did you go about uninstalling it? Did you just run it through the Control Panel, or did you try a "manual" removal? Either way, you might want to double-check under Add or Remove Programs to see if there are any leftover files lingering around that still need to be cleared out.
About a month and a half ago, my system crashed and when I checked the BIOS, SATA 0 was showing 0 GB while SATA 1 showed 2000 GB. Then yesterday, the system tanked again—I kept getting a blank screen until I finally managed to restore myself as the owner of the C: drive. So, today I decided to reinstall Windows and grab the motherboard and Wi-Fi drivers. I also needed an April update just to be able to download the GPU drivers, so I started on that... but after four hours of downloading, I hit a Blue Screen of Death labeled Critical Failure. This time, though, it was happening on the HDD.
You should probably download CrystalDiskInfo to check the health of the drive, but honestly? Based on that error message you got, it sounds like your hard disk is pretty much toast.
Since you only mentioned seeing that video quality option "once," we aren't exactly mind readers who can point out which specific button to press on your remote control 😁 How far away is your router from the TV? If it’s tucked away in another room, it’s really no wonder you're struggling to hit the highest playback quality—especially since 20 Mbps isn't exactly blazing fast by today's standards, considering most US providers are pushing at least 35-50 Mbps as a baseline.
First off, you might want to check how your case temperatures are looking—when was the last time you actually blew the dust out of your rig? Or even changed the thermal paste on the CPU?
Try grabbing HWMonitor to get a read on those temps: https://www.cpuid.com/downloads/hwmo...nitor_1.35.exe
And if you really want to dig into what caused that blue screen, download this tool to see the actual reason: http://www.resplendence.com/download...ashedSetup.exe
If you're up for it, just post some screenshots from both HWMonitor and WhoCrashed here so we can take a look together.
It's true, I'm running an RTX 3070 on a 1080p 60Hz monitor—but the real headache is my i5 4670k processor. It's causing a serious bottleneck, so I'm struggling to hit 60 fps in certain games.
