Posts by Larry Ortiz5

Honestly, even a basic multimeter should get the job done—and by basic, I mean just one of those cheap ones you find at a local Home Depot.

Are we talking about newer machines or older ones? (Specifically those last three) — what software are you using to make the bootable USB? If you’re using Rufus, definitely double-check whether the partition scheme is set to MBR or GPT. Personally, I'd recommend sticking with GPT if you're working with more recent computers.

I keep telling him—look, I live in Washington, D.C., where there’s a tech shop on basically every street corner. Can you imagine the headache if I had to wire him the cash just to have him ship it back? I'd be stuck waiting days for it to arrive. It’s much easier this way—I just walk into a store, grab what I need, and I'm done. 😁

I mean, sure, you're just trying to save your USB drive. But as far as you're concerned—would you actually be getting a brand-new, factory-sealed USB stick and a computer?

@ironseal8/">@@ironseal8 I've got those 16GB sticks available for $17—you'll get the receipt and a full warranty with them 🤣

It’s not really that massive or bulky—just your standard dual-fan setup. But honestly, since you mentioned that motherboard was already acting up with the audio right out of the box, it feels like it was only a matter of time before it gave up the ghost entirely. Have you tried putting in a warranty claim? If the warranty doesn't hold up because you ordered it from overseas, just keep in mind for next time that you can stick to local US retailers. You can always order through their webshops and have everything shipped straight to your doorstep.

A graphics card could be fifty meters long and wide for all I care—as long as the PCIe Express slot on both the card and the motherboard matches up so it actually fits, everything works fine. The only real catch is that if you go with a massive card, you're going to need a much larger case to house it. Honestly, the guy clearly hasn't a clue. 🤦 Which specific card are we talking about here? Also, looking at your setup, it seems like you've got an M-series motherboard—basically a Micro-ATX. It’s not huge like a standard ATX, but it still gets the job done, right?

It’s not really about pop-up windows—it's more that every single website manages its own privacy policy and cookie settings. This usually happens whenever you clear your browsing history in Chrome; normally, you just accept them once per site and they leave you alone... at least until you decide to wipe your history again.

Maybe take a quick peek at the Windows.old folder over on your C :/ Users drive...

I think it’s just how Facebook is set up, but for some reason, the audio always starts muted—so you basically have to manually crank up the volume in the video player every single time.

If we're talking about this monitor https://www.reevoo.com/p/dell-vw2025, then honestly? I don't think it's worth fixing at all—it's basically a relic from 2007.

Honestly, I wouldn't even bother taking it in for a repair—it just doesn't seem worth the hassle or the cost.
Could you let me know the exact monitor model? You can usually find it right on the screen itself or by checking the sticker on the back.

I don't know—to me, it feels like logical reasoning suggests that if the power supply was actually the culprit, the whole system would just shut down entirely.
Unless you can borrow a beefier PSU, just to be safe, maybe try testing it out and see if that changes anything?

Have you tried testing this with a different game yet? Also, what kind of software are you using to track things like your GPU or CPU usage? By the way, I thought that card had 8GB GDDR5 of VRAM, not 12!?

If it’s a brand-new monitor, you really shouldn't have to mess with any settings—it should just work out of the box. But, if you want to be safe, you can always hunt through the monitor's menu for a "reset to factory defaults" option just to clear everything out. If the issue persists after that, we might be looking at a hardware problem with the screen itself. Honestly, there are so many moving parts here—it could be anything from a faulty HDMI or DisplayPort cable connecting the monitor to your graphics card, to an issue with the GPU itself. A good way to troubleshoot would be to plug your old monitor back in; if the picture pops up immediately, then you know the computer is fine and the trouble lies with the new setup—whether it's a simple setting tweak or a physical defect in the new unit.

Honestly, whenever I see one of his posts, they’re always so long that I just can't bring myself to finish them—he always ends up wandering off onto a tangent anyway 😁

Try resetting Google Chrome back to its factory defaults—you can find that tucked away under the "Reset and clean up" section in the Advanced settings. You shouldn't have to worry about manually re-entering your usernames or passwords after that, either; the default setup is designed to keep those saved.

If you're running Windows 10, does that option show up for you just like it does in the video?

If you aren't looking to overhaul your entire setup, I'd honestly suggest checking Craigslist for a used motherboard instead—it probably makes more sense to shell out $67 a bit extra for a solid board than to sink that money into a controller.

Look, if Google says it's true, then it’s probably the truth—but I've noticed whenever you start a new thread, you always seem to be looking for a loophole or some alternative way to do things. It's kind of your thing, isn't it? Honestly, just back up your files, wipe the drive, and call it a day.