I actually had quite a bit of success setting this up myself, though it really just comes down to assigning a static IP address on your computer first, then plugging that right in along with the specific port you need. I'm not entirely sure which ones you're looking for—whether it's TCP or UDP—but that should get you moving. To be honest, my old router was a total headache to deal with; I used to run into all sorts of glitches trying to assign IP addresses to different devices, where some would pick them up without any trouble while others would just flat-out refuse, forcing me to manually set a fixed IP every single time. Thankfully, I finally swapped that thing out for a Speedtest router, and thank God it’s been smooth sailing since.
I’m struggling to follow your logic here—how on earth is your MacBook going to lose power during this? You have a battery, right? Besides, BIOS updates aren't some high-stakes ordeal anymore; nowadays you just run them through macOS rather than messing around with floppy disks in DOS like we used to, and the whole process usually wraps up in a minute or two. As for the repair shop, you can really only trust the work if it was handled by that specific friend of yours. If it ended up in the hands of some random technician, how can you even be sure they actually opened the casing? They might have just blown out some dust and called it a day. It honestly sounds to me like they just gave it a quick blast of compressed air. I'm also not sure if your MacBook has a single fan or a dual setup like those models I linked earlier, but it's entirely possible one of those fans just gave up on you.
The real question is what actually went on behind the scenes at the repair shop and how they managed to clean it out. Beyond that, I’ve learned the hard way that computer sensors can be pretty finicky sometimes, giving you readings that just don't match reality. If you actually touch the chassis and feel that intense, radiating heat against your skin, then you know it's genuinely overheating—at that point, the numbers on the screen don't really matter because the sensor might just be lying to you. It looks like I'm not the only one dealing with this kind of mess; you can read more about similar issues over here: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Noteboo...M/td-p/1360861
and also right here: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Noteboo...e/td-p/1201973
By the way, you can actually handle those kinds of DVD issues pretty easily using Gordian Knot. It’ll convert everything over to DivX, which works fine, though I know most people tend to lean toward .mp4 these days. Personally, I still think an .avi file is perfectly acceptable for what you need. One thing to watch out for is that iMovie can sometimes be a little temperamental when you're exporting files, but I'm fairly certain if you try saving it specifically in .avi format, you won't run into any trouble. Here is a tutorial for Gordian Knot: http://no1tutorials.net/divx-filmovi...koliko-i-kada/
What kind of power supply are you running? Are you absolutely certain it’s holding up okay? I've seen these exact symptoms pop up before when a PSU is either too weak to handle a rig like yours or it's just on its last legs and about to give out entirely.
rowdyotter12 said:Maybe try searching for something along these lines: Free Video cutter joiner
The magic word here is "joiner." If I’m reading your situation correctly—and I think I am—what you actually need to do is trim the first segment of the film down to where those unwanted scenes end (say, at the 5:40 mark), then trim the second segment to start right after them (let's say, starting from 10:30), and finally stitch the tail of that first clip to the head of the second. (So, 5:40 + 10:30). Once you merge them, that 10:30 mark effectively becomes 5:41, and the footage just flows seamlessly from there. That's really how the process works. I don't think there's a specific program out there—unless you're looking at high-end, paid professional software—that can just instantly bridge two clips while simultaneously deleting everything in the middle. You kind of have to roll up your sleeves and do a little manual labor.
Actually, there is. Like I mentioned before, iMovie is a great option, and it comes as part of the standard suite alongside Microsoft Office and Google Services. It's free to use, of course.
I honestly don't get why everyone is so obsessed with getting their hands on Windows 10. People who actually use it end up dealing with a mountain of headaches. Even Windows 8 never really felt like it worked the way it was supposed to. I’d bet anything that if you just stuck with Windows 7, you wouldn't be running into half of these issues we're seeing now.
I honestly think casualcyclist18 is a bit of an oddball 👎 ... casualcyclist18, when someone mentions a "hardwired connection," they’re talking about using physical cables instead of relying on Wi-Fi. And they make a fair point—once you find yourself asking what kind of wire you need, it's probably a sign you should just call a technician to handle the setup since the basics aren't clicking. My condolences, casualcyclist18...
In the future, try to stay away from those junk programs like SpyHunter that just end up wrecking your computer; you're much better off sticking to reliable, standard software instead.
So, it looks like the motherboard is actually fine. I just realized you're working with a PCI express 2.0 board while the graphics card is running on PCI express 3.0, though honestly, that shouldn't be an issue at all since cards are supposed to be backward compatible with just about any slot you plug them into. Still, dealing with Dell hardware can sometimes feel like a bit of a gamble, you never quite know what you're going to get...
I really hope you remembered to clear the CMOS using the jumper on the motherboard after you pulled the card out. If things still aren't working after a reset like that, it’s a pretty strong sign that the motherboard itself is shot or those PCI express slots are just dead. Also, I definitely hope you didn't forget to plug in the extra power cable to the card itself. What kind of card were you running before this one, and was it working okay?
Larry Ortiz5 said:Honestly, the easiest way to handle this is just to grab a Linux Mint live USB. Here’s how I’d go about it:
1. Download Linux http://www.linuxmint.com/download.php 2. Once that's done, you'll need to burn that ISO file onto a blank DVD—or, better yet, just flash it to a thumb drive. 3. Head into your BIOS settings and make sure your CD/DVD drive (or USB drive) is set as the primary boot device. 4. Boot into Linux, and that should be pretty much it—no full installation required. You can just plug in an external hard drive or a USB stick, move all your important files over there, and then you're free to format the main drive and install a fresh version of Windows.
p.s. I'm assuming you're comfortable with the actual Windows installation process, right?
darkmarlin16 said:I did everything exactly the way you told me to, but honestly, nothing has changed. It just won't boot into Windows or Linux at all.
Are you absolutely positive that the Linux file has to be in ISO format?
You didn't actually burn the entire .iso as one single file onto a DVD, did you? 🤦 Of course you can't just run Linux like that. It seems like you took the advice Larry Ortiz5 gave you way too literally. If you take something like DVD Decrypter, it handles the whole process pretty smoothly by burning that .iso file directly onto a DVD just like it’s supposed to. Basically, it takes the contents of the .iso and turns it into a standard, functional DVD complete with all the necessary files tucked away inside.
It’s pretty obvious that the connection is going to drop when the signal gets weak, and honestly, you can't expect much strength on an upper floor if the router is tucked away in the basement.
I honestly think you’re just dealing with some intermittent connection drops, nothing more complicated than that. That said, if you want to troubleshoot it further, you could try manually assigning a static IP address through your network adapter settings, or see if your router allows you to force the wireless mode to strictly b/g instead of using the higher standards.
It’s not that your screen is dimmed, it’s that it’s "dimmed" with an extra N. I honestly don't know where this new trend came from, where people start swapping out standard spelling for something else entirely. What’s next, are we going to start calling a chimney a "smokey-stack" or something equally ridiculous?!