Posts by shadowlynx102

I'm putting my money on the power supply 🙂

Good grief, what even is Google? People really need to stick to reputable antivirus software instead of downloading nonsense like this or those "registry cleaner pro" scams. Then everyone acts shocked when their computer starts crawling like a snail.

Honestly, you should probably just go ahead and install those missing drivers

It’s been about a week now and I still haven't gotten those printer drivers installed. If you find out there isn't a specific driver available for something like Windows Vista, you can actually just grab the one designed for Windows XP instead. My trick is to right-click the setup file once it's downloaded, head into the compatibility settings, set it to run as if it were on Windows Service Pack 3, and make sure you check the box to "Run as Administrator." It worked for me when I was trying to get an old device running on my laptop last month.

Anything is possible at this point, so just let me know exactly which laptop model you're running, if there are any yellow warning icons popping up in your Device Manager, and which version of Windows you have installed

It looks like you're dealing with some kind of driver conflict, though you won't really know for sure until you dig into the memory dump analysis. Your best bet is to start by checking the C:\ Windows\Minidump folder to see if there are any error reports saved there.

That laptop doesn't actually have built-in Wi-Fi, and since the Fn+F2 key combo is just set up to power on the device through a multiport slot, you won't be able to toggle a wireless radio there. You're really going to need to pick up a USB wireless adapter to get online.

Just one little thing to point out: it doesn't really matter how much time has passed since those files were originally written to the HDD, whether we're talking about a few days or several years. You likely would have seen a nearly 100% recovery rate if you hadn't been tinkering with the drive after the format, and honestly, I think the biggest headache here was probably messing around with resizing the partition.

You definitely need to grab a new connector. Here’s what happened in my experience: because of a loose connection at that port, things started melting after I left my laptop plugged in for a long time. That poor contact creates high resistance, which is why when you test the board, you're only seeing 8V. Try cutting those wires—which you’ll have to do anyway once you go to swap out the connector—and then measure the voltage directly on the wires while the charger is plugged in; I’d bet money you'll see a normal reading there. The issue is definitely sitting right in that connector. If you're really stuck, you might even be able to bypass the connector entirely by soldering the wires directly to the board from underneath.

I’ve always made it a point to restore data back onto a partition where nothing else has been messed with besides the initial formatting. Honestly, I suspect if you tried running a defrag on it, things would probably just get even messier. You might just have to settle for that 60% recovery rate. The only other thing I’d suggest—assuming you can get your hands on it—is giving Recuva a shot; it’s actually worked quite well for me in a few different situations before.

I don't know, maybe you're just an outlier because I’ve used Get Data Back at least a dozen times now, and I usually manage to pull back about 90% of everything every single time. As for why it took you ten hours, honestly, it all comes down to how much data you were trying to rescue and how fast your computer actually is; I’ve had sessions where it felt like it was running for twenty hours straight.

Hmm, you might want to try this approach:
Try checking the "excessive search" box and selecting "recover lost files." Under the bad sector strategy, go ahead and pick "retry each sector," then make sure to check "allow duplicate file names" and uncheck the "quick scan" option. For the settings on the right side, select "systematic file system damage." Also, just as a heads-up—and I really can't stress this enough—you absolutely cannot save the recovered data back onto the same drive or partition you're trying to rescue. For instance, if you're working on an E: drive that used to hold 150 GB of data, you’re going to need at least 150 GB of free space over on your C: or D: drive to have somewhere to put everything.
Edit: I actually found a PDF in English that walks through these steps in much more detail: http://www.runtime.org/howto_datarecovery.pdf

Take a look at this here. If that doesn't do the trick for you, I'd suggest hunting down an English tutorial somewhere online.

Honestly, it’s completely irrelevant, and there isn’t any way for a regular person to actually notice it during normal use. You’re really only going to see a difference in memory latency if you're running some highly specialized benchmarking software.

It saves everything using the original filenames, and honestly, all that talk about free space is just nonsense. The only real rule you need to know is that you can't recover files back onto the exact same drive they were lost from—that should be pretty obvious to anyone doing this. For instance, if you plug in that external drive you're trying to rescue data from and it shows up as the E: drive, you just need to make sure you're saving the recovered files over to your C: or D: drive instead.

EaseUS Data Recovery is pretty reliable; you can expect to recover at least 90% of your files

Just because your onboard network card was working fine until a few days ago doesn't change the fact that it's clearly dead now. It happens. Honestly, your best bet is to just pick up a dedicated PCI LAN card and then go into the BIOS to disable the one built into the motherboard.

wiredcanyon94 said:A clean reinstall of macOS will fix all your problems.

But like I mentioned before, I think I might just start working as a fortune teller instead.🤣

I honestly can't wrap my head around why people even think installing this kind of junk software is a good idea 😵 😵 😵 . The only real solution is to hit F8 right when you boot up your computer and select last known good configuration, or maybe try jumping into safe mode to run a system restore. If none of that works, then you're probably looking at a full reinstallation of macOS
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I usually try to keep my USB cables under about 16 feet because I don't like dealing with signal dropouts, though I've personally been fine running an 26-foot stretch when I really needed to reach a port across the room. That said, trying to push a cable out to 40 feet is just asking for trouble.