What’s the goal there? I’m definitely not talking about constantly toggling the power on and off—that seems unnecessary. But if we're discussing using it to manage a media center, say, for something like a home theater setup...
Anthony Ramos6 said:I don't really need anything fancy, 🙂 I'll probably just grab the RX1000—since I'm planning to pick up my whole PC build from Boeing anyway, it just makes sense to order everything from one place rather than juggling two different shops. I've read some things about Corsair, though—apparently, their quality isn't always top-tier and you might start hearing some "creaking" after using it for a little while. Does the RX1000 actually need a mousepad, or can I just run it straight on the desk?
You certainly *can* use it on a bare desk, but personally, I’m not a fan. It tends to scuff up the desktop surface, and those little mouse feet eventually get worn down, which makes the glide feel much clunkier. Plus, on certain textures, the sensor just doesn't track nearly as well... I honestly can't stand using a mouse without a pad, but hey, that's just my take on it.🙂
Asking which gaming mouse is best for $50 is actually a bit of a tricky question—mostly because that specific price range is kind of a dead zone where you don't find much that's actually worth the money. To be honest, if I were in your shoes, I’d probably just stretch my budget by another five or ten bucks to grab the Razer DeathAdder for $66 or maybe the Logitech F310 for $63 from the link provided. Looking at what Boeing has available in terms of gaming mice, the selection is honestly pretty thin...
The RX1000 isn't a bad mouse by any means, but I wouldn't really categorize it as a dedicated gaming mouse...
Bryan Evans77 said:a new 5670 with 512MB GDDR5 BINGO
BINGO AGAIN$179
It’s definitely the smartest move if you're looking to stay under $500--$200..
unless you can snag a used GTS 250 or an HD4850 lying around somewhere.
I see where you're coming from, but honestly? I wouldn't dream of pairing a GTS 250 or an HD4850 with some off-brand, no-name power supply... I’d much rather go with the 5670—you might sacrifice a little bit of raw performance, but you're essentially buying peace of mind. It reduces the risk of a cheap PSU failing and taking the rest of your components down with it.
Honestly, for $100, there just isn't much fresh stuff hitting the shelves to play. If you're looking at what you can actually get for $100, your best bet is probably hunting down a used 4650...
stormywolf39 said:The 6850 pulls significantly less power than any other card in its class—it’s honestly impressive how efficient it manages to be compared to the rest of the field. 🙂
Yahoo. At the end of the day, your temperatures and noise levels are almost entirely dependent on the quality of the cooler you choose to run. It’s funny how things work out—you have a card like the GTX 660, which actually carries a higher TDP, yet the Corsair Airwulf version stays remarkably quiet under load. Meanwhile, I keep hearing horror stories about the reference coolers for the 460, 5850, or even the 6850; apparently, they can get loud enough to drive you absolutely insane. My advice? Definitely do a deep dive and Google the specific model before you pull the trigger—it’s worth the extra effort. You really want to see what other people are saying regarding thermal performance and how loud those fans actually get under load... there's nothing worse than getting home with a new setup only to realize it sounds like a jet engine taking off.
It really all comes down to a few variables—which power supply you're running, how much mileage it already has on it, and just how hard you're pushing it under load...
Bryan Evans77 said:The only reason he might want the 1GB version is if he’s running a Full HD monitor... Just a small side note here. 🙂
Honestly, given the processor he's working with, I doubt he'll even be able to push the games hard enough to actually run out of video memory.
Karen Rogers23 said:So it’s actually pretty bad? 🤣 I don't know much about this stuff—and my husband knows even less—but he was the one picking it up.
Thanks for the help! 😁
It isn't bad at all; the Radeon 5670 is a perfectly capable card as long as you aren't demanding top-tier, cutting-edge performance. For a smooth, enjoyable gaming experience, it's more than sufficient.
I updated my previous post with the suggestion to grab a bit more memory. In this day and age, 1GB of VRAM feels a little thin.😉
Well, looking at how the rest of your setup is built, $267 that graphics card is actually massive overkill for a machine like this. The Radeon 5670 is pretty much the ceiling for what the rest of your hardware—and especially that power supply—can actually handle. I’d also suggest picking up some extra memory while you're at it; if you can bump it up to 2 GB of RAM, you'll notice a huge jump in performance. For instance, 2 GB of Kingmax DDR2 🙂
Karen Rogers23 said:Hey there! I could really use some help—we’ve been having issues with our computer for a few days now, and it turns out the graphics card finally gave up the ghost. We’re running a temporary placeholder right now, but we need to pick up a new one within the next few days. That’s where I’m stuck; I have absolutely no clue which one to get, and honestly, I’m not even sure how to answer those technical questions on the first page. 🤦 The PC is about two years old, and here is what I know (I'm pulling this from the system info—hopefully, it's enough to go on): an Infinity (A434), and the monitor is a Samsung Galaxy S22". We’re looking to spend up to $267, and mostly, it'll be used for playing COD.
Oof, yeah—even searching online makes it tough to figure out exactly what’s under the hood. Why don't you download CPU-Z, then grab a screenshot of each of the different tabs? That way, we can see exactly which motherboard and processor you're working with, along with the total memory. 🙂
Running Furmark and Prime95 simultaneously would probably push that power supply way too hard—I suspect it would hit the red zone pretty quickly. Still, considering how budget-friendly it is, it's actually performing quite well under pressure 🙂
Logitech doesn't actually handle peripheral repairs in-house. If you have a valid receipt, you can still make a warranty claim—usually by shooting them an email to explain what’s gone wrong. Most of the time, they’ll send over a case number, which you then have to print out, snap a photo of next to the device, and then... well, you usually have to destroy the faulty unit and take a photo of that too, alongside the case number, before they finally ship out a replacement. (It's something along those lines—I haven't personally navigated the whole process myself, but I've heard that's how their method works from several different sources...)
If you aren't planning on lugging this thing around—meaning it’s just going to live on your desk right next to your PC—you're actually better off grabbing the 3.5" version (the kind that uses a USB cable for data but needs its own dedicated power brick). Now, if you really need something portable that you can toss in a bag, then go with the 2.5" models, since they all draw their power directly from the USB port. WD Elements 320GB, WD Elements 500GB Looking at what's available right now, those 3.5" drives are getting a bit harder to find in these smaller capacities (for instance, WD Elements desktop 1TB is currently the most budget-friendly option over at Best Buy)
Advertise away. Unless you picked this up through eBay—in which case, I’d be pretty skeptical about your ability to actually claim a warranty—but feel free to set me straight if I've got that wrong.
In that case, I’d say you're making a solid call going with the Seagate BarraCuda 500GB. Honestly, you probably don't even need the extra speed of a 7200rpm drive—unless, of course, you're really craving that extra kick, in which case Seagate FireCuda 320GB might be the way to go 🙂 . Still, we have to keep an eye on the budget, since those 640GB drives tend to run quite a bit higher in price than the $167 🙂