Posts by ruggedpanther2

Peter Perez75 said:The title might be a bit clunky, but you get the gist. The DVD era is pretty much dead, replaced by Blu-ray with all that extra capacity. You can pick up a Blu-ray burner relatively cheap, but I wonder how long before those become obsolete too, since gigabytes just don't cut it anymore... trying to archive everything onto external drives of 500 GB or 1 TB when you have a massive collection isn't exactly budget-friendly... maybe sticking to USB sticks makes more sense? They're cheap, small, and easy to handle...

Personally, I’ve got this huge collection of American films, documentaries, and series that I really don't want to lose to decaying DVDs...

I'm open to any ideas. Thanks in advance...

A 3 TB hard drive for archiving, priced around $500—is that really such a massive stretch?$200 Not really, right?🎉🎉

Kevin Kim7 said:Disabled the firewalls on both machines. Still nothing.

First, you need to figure out exactly what you're sharing:
View on imgur

Then, adjust your permissions settings:
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That should do the trick. 😁 😁 😁

Kevin Kim7 said:Hey everyone,

I’m trying to move files between my laptop and my desktop. The laptop is on Wi-Fi, while the desktop is hardwired via Ethernet. I’ve already set them up in a Workgroup, but whenever I try to share a folder, I just get an access denied error. Check the screenshots here:

View on imgur

The exact same thing happens when I try to reach the desktop from the laptop side.
As you can see, both machines show up fine on the network map.

That's exactly how I set up my laptop and desktop too. Sometimes it works seamlessly, and other times? Not so much. It turns out the culprit was just a pesky firewall setting.

Lisa Perez50 said:Hey there.

I’m having an issue with my desktop icon layout. I'm running Windows 10.

Basically, ever since I hooked my laptop up to my TV via HDMI and then unplugged it, all my icons shifted down a few rows. I tried moving them back to where they were originally, but it's like there's this "ghost space" occupying a spot where they refuse to go, which just ends up pushing all the other icons out of alignment again.



To give you an idea: I can move Google Chrome to the top left corner just fine. But the second I try to put Adobe Photoshop right underneath it, Chrome jumps down below Adobe Photoshop. Why does this even happen? Is there some actual reason for this behavior? I already ran scans for viruses and other junk, and nothing came up. It's incredibly annoying if I have to manually reorganize everything every single time I plug my laptop into the TV. I'm just trying to keep my desktop organized.

I recorded a quick 20-second video to show exactly what I mean.

This used to drive me crazy too. My workaround was just to leave the very first vertical row empty, and that did the trick.
Since the last update, though, it hasn't been happening to me—partly because I adjusted my scaling settings. So, I'm honestly not entirely sure what caused the glitch in the first place.
Maybe try downloading a little utility called "CCleaner." It might save you the headache of rearranging everything if you can't find a permanent fix.

fadedbear92 said:I’m looking for some experts to "draw me a map" on how to separate my different devices. I clearly messed something up because now my computer and phone are synced with my work laptop too! It actually caught me off guard the other day when my browsing history from home popped up while I was at the office—and I am 100% certain I didn't visit those sites during work hours. Pleeease, heeelp!
Thanks so much in advance!

Just pull the battery out of your phone and unplug the computer. Problem solved. 😵 😵

Maria Richardson2 said:What should my next course of action be? I am still being kicked out of my game by that persistent "exception 0 xe06d7363 0 x9a168a5c" error message.
Should I perhaps go ahead and uninstall the Malwarebytes service to see if freeing up some RAM Usage helps?
Surely there must be some other solution available to me beyond just that one option.

What is actually going on with your setup...
You're running 4 GB of RAM, which is basically the bare minimum you need to run Windows smoothly. If that isn't cutting it for you, why not just head down to Best Buy and buyyyy another 4 GB?
Trying to obsess over every little bit of RAM usage is honestly just a waste of time. It's pretty pointless, really.

James Ruiz said:I'm looking to pick up a new graphics card for my rig. I've been running an AMD setup, so the Sapphire AMD Radeon RX 480 caught my eye. Now, the 470 is a bit cheaper, and the 460 is significantly more budget-friendly... is it actually worth springing for the top-tier option?

Your power supply should handle it just fine. As for the GPU? Well, you get what you pay for, right? Though, honestly, the performance gap between them isn't massive. If you can swing it, I’d say go for the most expensive one. But, if things are a little tight financially, the middle ground—the 470—is a solid choice. Actually, if you decide to save that extra cash instead of going for the premium model, why not put it toward an SSD?
Just make sure you double-check the specs, specifically the ports. My old card had 2 x HDMI ports and I used both; my new one only has 1 HDMI and 3 x DP (DisplayPort). An adapter for DP/HDMI will run you about $27.

boldbadger20 said:Hi there

I was wondering if there might be some way to recover a bit of text I accidentally deleted in Word.

Basically, I opened up a document, cut some content out, and then closed the program without being able to paste it elsewhere 😛

So now that section is just gone from my file, and I guess I'm curious if it's possible to roll the document back to how it looked before that change happened.

Thanks in advance.

Reading this just makes me want to laugh. Seriously, thank goodness for backups, right? 🎉 🎉 🎉

Edward Miller18 said:Hey there,

I'm running into an issue with my Dell running Windows 10. Even though I've gone into the settings and set the brightness to stay at 100% regardless of whether I'm on battery power or plugged in—basically forcing High Performance mode—the screen just keeps dimming and brightening whenever it feels like it. It's driving me crazy! Has anyone else dealt with this kind of thing? Any luck getting it fixed? Cheers.

Does that Dell support Windows 10 properly? Also, are you using any specific software to manage the display, like Dell Color Enhancement?
You might find a solution over here: http://visihow.com/How_do_I_adjust_b...ast_on_my_asus

Roger Sullivan98 said:I have two specific questions regarding the free version of OneDrive:
1-how much storage space are we talking about, 5 or 10 GB?
2-what is the maximum file size allowed for an upload?

1. You get 5 GB, plus an extra 500 MB for every referral (up to 20 referrals, which caps you at 10 GB total).
2. 300 MB per file.

Carl Booth17 said:Since I have a Gmail account, I realized I also have the option to store my data on https://onedrive.live.com/.
I logged in and moved some of my files over, but now I'm seeing "3 GB used of 5 GB"
I'm a bit confused—how is it only 5 GB when I read somewhere that OneDrive offers 25 GB for free?

Even though the name is a bit of a mouthful, Dropbox is one of the most popular and incredibly useful cloud services from Microsoft. Microsoft offers a generous 25 GB of free storage to all its users.
Does anyone know what's going on with this?

Where on earth did you find that quote... Skydrive?
That was ages ago! But basically, they actually cut it down to 5 GB just a few months back.

View on imgur
I’ve got four pieces here: two USB connectors with three holes each, plus those two ground jacks.
Looking at this manual, where am I supposed to plug these in?

wiredotter14 said:Honestly, either of those two options that analogtiger19 suggested should work just fine. They're miles ahead of anything from Akira or similar brands.

Thanks to everyone for the solid advice! After thinking it over, I’ve decided to pull the trigger on this combo in a few days:
EVGA Hyper, 600W+ NVIDIA GTX 1650

analogtiger19 said:You don't strictly need a 500-600W unit, but the ones you're looking at are pretty low-end... do you really have to get the power supply from Newegg?

EDIT: if you absolutely have to grab it from Newegg, then go with at least an EVGA 400W hexa with a 3-year warranty, or maybe this EVGA 430W model which comes with a 5-year warranty.

Right now, I'm running an EVGA Platinum 400. Honestly, the quality is top-tier—you really can't find anything better than this for that price point.
Now, I'm planning to upgrade to something more powerful, at least 500W, so I can handle the graphics card I'm eyeing on the Newegg website. To save on shipping costs by not paying twice, I figured I'd just pick up the power supply there too. It seems your recommendations for wattage are actually quite similar to what I'm already using.

wiredotter14 said:How much do you think it’s worth to drop on that Radeon?

Timothy Kim60 said:It seems like you might have cut off there! Was there something specific you wanted to discuss? I'm all ears. Is this thing on? Just testing the waters here. Dual fans? Is that really enough to get the job done?

So, what’s the going rate for an NVIDIA Radeon equivalent these days? $533.

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. I’ve finally made my decision on this one:
Looking at this listing on Newegg... anyone else curious about this one? It's an NVIDIA GTX 1650, right? A solid little card for a budget build. Does it actually hold up for modern titles if you aren't pushing max settings? I'm thinking it might be just the thing for a quick upgrade to an older system. What do you all think? Is it worth grabbing while it's available?.
I'm also looking to pick up a new power supply. Honestly, there are so many different options out there now—does it even make sense to bother with those basic 500W units? $200.
I'm weighing my options on these:
Is there anything more critical to a build than the power supply? I've been looking closely at the Akira AK-B1-700 Basic, a 700W unit. Can we really trust a budget-friendly component to anchor an entire system? It’s a question worth pondering. Is anyone else looking at this listing on Newegg? I was browsing through their current stock and stumbled upon this specific component. It’s an interesting find, isn't it? Does it seem like a solid value to you, or am I just overthinking the specs? I'd love to hear what the rest of you think about this one.
Thinking about upgrading your power supply? Take a look at the XILENCE RedWing R7 Edition, pushing out 500W. Is it worth the switch? Is anyone else looking at this listing on Newegg? I was browsing through some components earlier today and stumbled upon this specific item. It caught my eye, but I wanted to get a second opinion from the community first. Does this look like a solid deal to you? Or am I missing something crucial about the specs? I’d love to hear what you all think before I pull the trigger.
Is there anything more fundamental than a solid power supply? I've been looking at the SPIRE Pearl 550W lately. It’s one of those components you just can't afford to overlook, right? Reliable juice is the heartbeat of any build. Is anyone else eyeing this deal over on Newegg? I was just browsing through their latest listings and stumbled upon this specific item. It caught my eye immediately. Could it be the right fit for a budget build? I’m still weighing my options, but the specs look pretty interesting at first glance. What do you all think? Is it worth pulling the trigger on?

The prices look pretty much the same to me. If anyone has a solid recommendation for a different power supply—honestly, price isn't even my main concern here—I'd love to hear it. What else should I be looking at?

I'm currently running a Radeon HD 5670, and I've been thinking about upgrading. I'm looking at something more substantial, like this: Radeon R7 370 4G. Based on the performance benchmarks, we're talking about a theoretical jump of roughly 200% to 300%.
http://www.hwcompare.com/19668/radeo...eon-r7-370-4g/

My current setup features an i3 processor and an SSD (running on SATA II).
However, I have a few lingering doubts:
- I'm using a 400 W MSI power supply. The new card has a max power draw of nearly 110W, which is almost double my old 65W unit.
- My motherboard uses a PCIe 2.0 x16 slot, while the new one calls for PCIe 3.0 ×16.
Given these specs, will I actually see that expected boost in performance?
I just want to make sure nothing bottlenecks the system, leaving me with the realization that the new card performs no better than my old one.

placidlynx452 said:So, I'm having trouble connecting to the TP-LINK_WA801ND via Wi-Fi. The default factory password (TP-LINK_49CEF0) just isn't working. I already tried resetting the Extension, of course. What else can I try? (Assuming I don't want to just use an Ethernet cable)

The default username and password should be admin/admin.
Since you've already performed a reset, I'm not entirely sure if you'll be able to access it through the Wi-Fi interface immediately.

electricwalker5 said:I actually have that drive, but I can't seem to get into the command prompt. It's because my laptop has a German version of macOS installed.

I really doubt the language settings have anything to do with it. Booting from an installation disc shouldn't be affected by whatever macOS is currently sitting on your Hard Drive. Which step in the video did you actually manage to complete?

Justin Harris75 said:What are your thoughts on this?

Open the Run dialog (Win + R)
type "cmd"
then type ping 192.168.5.1
If packet loss is 0, the issue is on their end. If not, the problem is definitely with your setup.

mellowwolf16 said:🙂
this is awful. so my only shot is my university email. they have to fix that one for me. but if I can't use it to recover the Gmail, am I just done with the whole account? 🙂
is it really like that?🤦

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