Posts by ruggedpanther2

mellowwolf16 said:Hey there.

Not sure if this is the right spot for this... feel free to move the thread if I messed up.

What do you do when you completely blank on a new Gmail password? I changed my long-time password because I got a security alert about someone trying to log in from another computer. Just wanted to be safe, so I picked a new one. But honestly, with everything going on lately, it totally slipped my mind. I'm trying every combination I can think of, but usually, I just use the app on my phone anyway. I tried logging in on my laptop today and realized I'm stuck. I've been following all the recovery steps, and I even remember my old password, but there’s a catch—the backup email I linked to it is acting crazy. It's totally locked me out, and I'm not sure if it's related to the Gmail issue. Since that's my university account, I'm basically cut off from talking to my professors too. I'm waiting for the IT department at the college to open so I can ask about the backup email, but it's so frustrating being unable to get back into my Gmail. I have so many important files on Google Drive and in my inbox... is there any way to save this? All Google is giving me is try another way to sign in🙂.🙂 🙂

Is there any hope for me and my email?

I’m afraid not.
So, here is the situation regarding your Google account access. It looks like you set your recovery method to a "backup" email address that you can't actually get into.
To put it bluntly, if you don't have access to that backup email, there is essentially no way to reclaim ownership of the account.
There is a slim chance of regaining access through security questions, but let's be honest—you likely won't be able to answer them correctly.
Either you find a way to log into that backup inbox, or you have to say goodbye to that Google account...
If this Gmail is really that vital to you, next time, make sure to link a cell phone number as an additional recovery option.

Jerry Phillips19 said:Is there actually any point in partitioning that hard drive?

In your specific situation, there really isn't any need to bother with partitions. If you're determined to do it, well, go right ahead. It's entirely your call. But if you ask me? I’d suggest not overcomplicating things just for the sake of it.

Henry Stewart2 said:What do you guys think? Is this SSD totally dead, or does it still have some life left in it? Are there any last-ditch efforts I should try before I just pack it up and take it to a repair shop?

Try booting from a Linux live USB or even a DVD—just run it without installing anything. It'll give you a clear picture of where things stand. If you can actually see your files once you're in, then the drive itself isn't the culprit; the issue lies somewhere else entirely...🤷

Ronald Nguyen3 said:Is there actually a way to stop Windows 10 from booting up automatically without me having to manually select it every single time?

http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2...a.html#option3
So, here’s the fix: just hit Win+R, type in msconfig, head over to the Boot tab, and delete the Windows 7 entry. That should do the trick!👍

William Smith30 said:Hey there,
I’m also looking for some recommendations on a wireless mouse for about $50

I’d suggest the Logitech m185, $50. Honestly, what more could you ask for? It’s a simple, reliable mouse. It runs on a single AA battery that lasts quite a while. Simple as that.

If you really want everything to run smoothly, this is the way to go:

:klap: :klap: :klap: :klap: :klap: :klap:

Ryan James60 said:Just uninstall that "Windows Update" patch, and once you reboot, it’ll just sit there endlessly checking for updates.

If this is the very first update following a clean installation of Windows 7, and you happen to be running an older or slower processor, could it take three or even four hours? Absolutely. It’s actually quite normal. Why not try disabling the update service entirely, then turn it back on right before you head to bed? By morning, the full update should be ready and waiting for you. Also, perhaps consider temporarily disabling your firewall? You wouldn't want to wake up to a failed installation because, say, the firewall blocked the setup for Windows Defender or something similar.

Christian Cruz41 said:I'm running Java 8u65 and Google Chrome version 46...
but I can't get the Social Security website to load anywhere...

Chrome works perfectly fine for me on the Social Security site!

hollowfox4 said:Can anyone recommend a motherboard?

Just grab whatever fits, like an ASUS board with an LGA 1150 socket. It’s pretty straightforward: you get what you pay for. If you want to splurge, you'll get more features, or if you prefer to save some cash, you can just pick up exactly what you need. Either way, you're looking at a price range between $90 and $400. There really isn't much to overthink here.😁

cosmiceagle8 said:Hey everyone, I'm looking for a solid program to track my tasks—something like a planner or a scheduler? I can't quite remember what the technical term is for it.
It doesn't matter if it's free or paid software.
Thanks!

Microsoft Outlook

stormywalker68 said:Should I just wipe everything and start fresh with a clean install?

A total reinstall? Honestly, you don't have much of a choice left...😁 😁

silentwolf53 said:A few weeks ago, I reinstalled 64-bit Windows 7 Ultimate on my Dell Inspiron (it originally had Premium).


I have this habit of doing a clean reinstall every couple of months because things just get messy... so I made my own ISO to use whenever I wipe the drive—figured I'd share it here if anyone needs it.Yeah, it's pirated. 😁
I don't think the issue is the installation itself since I've used this exact image before without any drama.

I wiped the partition, installed Windows 7, tweaked the settings, installed my software, ran all the driver updates, Windows Update, the whole nine yards. Once everything was finished—even though I disabled User Account Control—that little UAC icon started popping up next to certain things:

And of course, those programs with the icon won't even launch unless I right-click and select "run as admin." I'm the only user on this machine, always logged in as an admin, so I don't get what the hell is happening.

On top of that, I don't have write permissions for the C: drive, so I had to manually fix the permissions for every single folder in Program Files and Program Files x86—and even then, it wouldn't work unless I gave full access to every single user profile.

I scanned every partition with Malwarebytes, Avast, MSE, Spyhunter, Panda, and Kaspersky... nothing. Nothing at all. As far as installed software goes, I've got Microsoft Office, AutoCAD, CATIA, WinRAR, Paint.NET, BS Player, Call of Duty 4, Xfire, Skype, Viber, Lightshot, MSE, MBAM, CCleaner, Foxit Reader, Chrome, and Notepad++—nothing sketchy or weird.

Then, a couple of days ago after a major Windows update (I do them manually every two weeks), my boot time shot up from under a minute to ten minutes. After the "Starting Windows" screen disappears, the display just goes black and stays like that for ten minutes until the password prompt finally shows up. After that, it takes a few seconds for the startup stuff to load and everything to actually function properly.

What is the deal with this and how do I fix it?

Something just isn't quite right. Have you tried running the installation again using the ISO file? If that doesn't do the trick, you might need to start from scratch and reinstall everything step-by-step—the OS and all your software. 😵 😵

Once you're inside the BIOS, head over to the boot options menu. You'll want to go ahead and remove anything labeled "other devices" or just "other" from your boot sequence. While you're at it, double-check if booting from the LAN is turned on? If it is, just disable it. See, PXE is basically just a protocol designed to let you boot from a network drive or a server. So, when you see that error saying it failed, it’s really just because the system couldn't locate an OS on the network.

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/w...b-3f1d6920206a

create a system image — think of this as a complete snapshot of your entire PC, including all your software and files. There isn’t much decision-making involved; you just run the process and you're done.

setup backup image — this is your standard backup, primarily designed for your personal data like photos or Word and Excel documents. You’ll likely have three different options to choose from (incremental, mirror, or full), after which you select which specific files to back up and finally decide where to save everything...

wearyhawk22 said:Does anyone have a recommendation for a solid PDF program? I'm looking for something that can handle a specific task:
How about just pulling a few specific pages out of a PDF and saving them as their own separate file? Is there a quick way to do that?
Is there a way to delete some pages?
I have Adobe Acrobat Pro, Adobe Reader 9, and Foxit Phantom installed on my machine, but I’m striking out. Is there any way to find that specific feature? I don't see it anywhere in any of these programs.

Shouldn't there be a way to handle this? I mean, surely within Foxit, there ought to be some functionality similar to Extract pages or Delete Pages?
Take a look at this...

That’s only an issue if the document is locked for editing.

The simplest way to handle this? Just use an encryption program. You could have a friend enter one half of the password, and you handle the other half. That’s really all there is to it. You'll only be able to unlock it if you both provide your respective parts. 😵 😵

Go to the Control Panel - Power Options, pick whichever plan you prefer, and then just click on "Change plan settings."

Steven White96 said:I think you missed my point. I’m asking which specific BIOS revision is the UEFI version? Is it 2.0, 2.1, or...? Obviously, I want to grab the latest one available, so that detail matters to me.

That shouldn't really matter. Regardless of the version number, you just head over to this site https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/H8...Desk_Download/, pick the right one for your OS, and install the most recent BIOS update they have listed.

There’s absolutely no revision happening here.
As far as I can recall, those early USB 3.0 motherboards were constantly being shipped back to the manufacturer for repairs. That was when they actually started using revision labels. When was that again...?

Don't overthink it; this board is a newer generation. For an everyday user, it has everything you really need. If you pick it up, you won't regret it.