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Posts by wiredotter14

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Core 2 Duo in Desktops ·
This is easily one of those budget cards that actually makes sense for the money.

http://www.amazon.com/graphic-cards/

It’s solid. It kicks way more ass than any integrated graphics in an APU, plus the price just dropped recently.

But let's be real—DOOM 4 is out of reach.
PC build under $750 (no peripherals) in Desktops ·
Adam Moore3 said:WTF? We’re talking about a $5,000 build here and you’re rambling on about VR, FreeSync, an RTX 3070, some overpriced unlocked CPU on a motherboard that can't even handle overclocking, and a $267 power supply. What? 😲

😵😵😵😵 I don't even know why you left all that out

But regarding VR—a Skylake i5 is plenty for VR, so it's not some pipe dream for this setup (or whatever upgrade comes next)
Printer Buying Guide (Summer 2016) in Computer Peripherals ·
You just wrote an entire essay just to reach the same relevant point: when you're buying a printer, check if there's actually any third-party ink available. 🙏🙏🙏

All this conspiracy talk—even if it’s spot on—doesn't matter to the user. Canon, Epson, whatever... they're all fine printers for the average person, and within 24 months, nobody's going to give a damn whether the thing finally kicks the bucket or not.
Printer Buying Guide (Summer 2016) in Computer Peripherals ·
You didn't offer any actual advice here.
So, should I buy an HP or what? According to you, it’s like buying a luxury car—runs great, sure, but it drains your bank account dry.

The bottom line when buying a printer is ink availability. It doesn't matter how fancy that HP is if you can't find the ink anywhere.
Also, you really need to check reviews for the specific model. Every brand has its hits and misses.
Printer Buying Guide (Summer 2016) in Computer Peripherals ·
Chris Mitchell4 said:What’s the actual lifespan here?
Now this HP printer is also in the running.
If you had to pick between those two, which way would you go?

Honestly, just look at which one makes it easier to find compatible ink. That’s the most important factor right out of the gate.
The second thing is the retailer—basically, what kind of customer service are you going to get if things go south? You can't rule out a warranty claim, especially with devices that cost less than $333 (though even the expensive ones break down, regardless of the brand)
Printer Buying Guide (Summer 2016) in Computer Peripherals ·
hollowmarlin27 said:Sure, if you think swapping ORIGINAL chips from the old cartridges is some genius move. In reality, about 5% of those cheap third-party chips are sketchy enough to wreck the printhead. Then the head ruins the board. Once you put a brand-new head into a printer with a fried board, that new head just ends up killing the board right back.

Go check with a Canon service center. See how many printers they get in for stuff like this. Ask them if they’d even be willing to install their own new head into your machine.

Their answer will tell you everything you need to know about the actual problem—and exactly how much life is left in a Canon device when this happens.

Got any actual sources for this besides your own theories?

I've seen plenty of printers where the head died despite using nothing but original ink.

Besides, for a device that costs $233, it doesn't really matter if the head dies after 100 refills or if it lasts two years—as long as it stays within the merchant's replacement warranty, then fine, whatever.
On the flip side, if you barely use it, the lack of use is exactly what's going to kill it.
Used PC builds: What are they worth? in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60, you're being way too optimistic about that GPU. When we're talking about an RX 460 $367, plus the fact that 370s are out there and the GTX 950 isn't far off... I think hitting 750 $267 is a stretch, even if there's still half the warranty
left.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Has anyone actually released a GTX 1050 without needing a power connector?
PC build under $750 (no peripherals) in Desktops ·
You might find it slightly cheaper if you bought all the components individually, but overall this is a solid build since it includes the GTX 1060
http://www.amazon.com/registry/wishlist/C6N05U1RYJF6
Everything is from Amazon, so shipping shouldn't be an issue

I didn't include a PC case; you can just pick one out yourself

The Witcher is basically a Craftsman Tool kind of game, so Nvidia would be a smart move here

I think 8GB of RAM is enough. It really depends on what kind of video editing you're doing, but you can always just slap in another 8GB later

P.S. If you're worried about needing more processing power, I’d honestly suggest just grabbing an i7 for the same motherboard. An i5 with a decent cooler and a pricier board ends up costing about the same, and for rendering, the i7 is definitely the better way to go
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:on Newegg, most RX 470 4GB cards are sitting at $199-$219, while the XFX R9 380X is $199 and the Gigabyte is $219

that's a lot for an RX 480 at $199😠
Gaming PC build under $8k? in Desktops ·
No need to get worked up about it, but I honestly think we have every right to call someone by their first name.
👍
Alexander Moore67 said:The hillbilly is in peak condition👍
Need some build advice in Desktops ·
mellowtiger83 said:That Celeron will actually handle Grand Theft Auto V. It’s an LGA 1150 socket, so you can easily swap in a better CPU later once you have some cash. That GTX 750 Ti is decent too—it'll run most things, just don't expect to crank everything to High settings. It's a solid card.

Check out the link Kimberly Gomez34 posted.
Even an Intel Pentium G3258 can only push that AMD Radeon R9 270 to about 80% utilization on LOW settings. Once you bump it up toward High, the FPS barely moves, which means you've got a massive CPU bottleneck right there. So, we're talking about LOW settings here, and that's with a processor much stronger than a Celeron. Sure, it stays playable above 30fps, but you're still going to deal with freezes and frame drops.

P.S.
Yeah, upgrading from a Celeron on an 1150 board is a great path, but you have to budget for a new CPU. And honestly, you'd probably want a new GPU too, because that GTX 750 Ti is going to struggle against any decent i5.
Bottom line: you'd get way more bang for your buck if you picked something slightly more powerful on the CPU side right now, assuming you aren't planning to overhaul the whole rig (which would be a much better move anyway—grab a used i5 and a newer or refurbished GPU, and you'll get way more performance for the money in a few months).
How many pockets you got?
Need some build advice in Desktops ·
rustytrucker37 said:Look, I'll just set a price ceiling at the end. The goal is to keep everything else cheap while making sure the CPU and GPU run without any issues. Whatever the final number ends up being, it is what it is. If this gets too complicated, I'll start a new thread. Thanks!

There’s honestly no point in trying to pin anything down without a budget. Aside from a junk power supply, pretty much any component will "ensure the CPU and GPU run fine." Everything will work. It’s about what you actually want out of them, rather than just making sure they turn on.
PC issues after RAM upgrade in Hardware ·
Lmao, I dealt with some similar symptoms on a machine once. Swapping out the CMOS battery on the motherboard fixed everything. Still, no clue why that would be hitting you right now.
Upgrade or a whole new build? in Desktops ·
Look, let's be real: the RX 470 is basically just a cut-down RX 480. And the RX 460? That's in a completely different league—spec-wise, it’s barely half of what the 470 offers. Still, it should sit right in the Pitcairn range, making it a decent pick for an old rig running something like a Phenom if you're just aiming for FHD gaming.
Upgrade or a whole new build? in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:Just saw a thread on PC Gamer about some guy swapping an i5 750 for an i5 6600k while running a 280X. Apparently, he saw a decent performance jump in Doom.

Any idea if he was using Vulkan or what? A 280X should definitely see some gains there.

Look, I get it—an RX 470 isn't exactly top-tier hardware for those kinds of builds. But if we're talking around $533, it's a reasonable move for people looking to upgrade their current rig before dropping cash on a whole new PC. Still, those setups with a card like that (or even weaker) should be able to pull 1080p at 60 fps on at least Very High settings, depending on how much the CPU bottleneck hits you.
Personally, I'd rather grab that card for maybe $533 if I had the cash than waste over $333 on something like a 370. The next logical step down would be an RX 460, which should be a solid, balanced upgrade for that kind of setup.
Upgrade or a whole new build? in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:HU just dropped a video comparing the GTX 1060 and RX 480 on an i5 750 and a Phenom II 965 (using an i7 6700 as a baseline to avoid any CPU bottleneck)

GTX 1060 vs. RX 480 in 6 year old AMD and Intel Computers>

Interesting results for DirectX 12 and Vulkan. On the slower CPUs, Nvidia pulls ahead even though AMD gets more raw value—it seems the newer APIs help them way more when you aren't dealing with a CPU bottleneck.
Basically, AMD takes a hit on weaker processors but gains a lot with DirectX 12 and Vulkan. Still, it looks like Nvidia actually performs better during a CPU bottleneck, which kind of backs up what AdoredTV said about AMD's issues with CPU overhead and how they use Vulkan to fix a problem Nvidia already solved in their hardware.

Anyway, if you overclock those older chips a bit, the bottleneck shouldn't be too bad. That i5 can definitely push past 3GHz easily enough.
Then again, the RX 480 and GTX 1060 are total overkill for 1080p anyway, so the bottleneck would likely be less noticeable on something like a future RX 470 or GTX 1050.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:You should've just told them.

If he's got the paperwork—some kind of receipt proving when the swap happened—then he hasn't lost a thing. Actually, he could take that document back to them and demand a written guarantee that the full original warranty starts from scratch. But there's really no point; under US consumer law, his warranty is already extended for two years from the date of the replacement.
It makes sense to ask for a written guarantee on a replacement device if the warranty lasts longer than two years. Say a RAM module dies in 2025, which would be year nine of a ten-year warranty, and they extend everything out to 2035.