Posts by Benjamin King2

CPU - $250
Motherboard - $150
RAM - $150
GPU - $300

Brian Long25 said:It's a laptop—is there any way to actually check this within the BIOS?

Look, ERROR code 10 is just one of those generic errors that pops up whenever hardware starts acting possessed. Does your laptop have a physical toggle or a function key to flip the wireless on and off? Also, where exactly were you grabbing drivers after you did the reinstall? And for the love of god, let me know which specific laptop model you're dealing with.

It all depends on how "thick" the stream actually is—if we're talking 128 kbps, you're looking at roughly 55 MB per hour.

Just sell that card—if you can actually find a buyer—you might walk away with something like $67.

150-200 kn.

First thing you need to do—and I mean seriously, first thing—is install all those motherboard drivers. And wait, what do you mean you can't even get into the BIOS? Or is that what you're saying? I honestly have no idea what you're trying to tell me here.

Is Device Manager looking clean? No issues popping up there?

Just go ahead and format the disk while you're running the installation.

You can't run both at the same time—it’s one or the other. You're looking at either DDR or SDRAM, nothing in between.

How old is this bucket anyway? Because it’s only going to run games that are about 6 or 7 years old at best.

CM Cavalier - 200
Motherboard - 120
CPU - 50
RAM - 70
GPU - 100
Toaster - 50
PSU - 130
Seagate - $33
WD - $100

The other rig is brand new—just knock about 15-20% off whatever you actually shelled out for it.

Are you absolutely sure about that? Because honestly, there’s zero reason why the PC would start acting up just because you swapped out the keyboard.

Go ahead and dig into your Control Panel -> Keyboard -> Hardware tab -> Properties -> Power Management and see if that little box labeled "Allow this device to wake the computer" is actually checked.

Look, you've gotta be specific here—tell me exactly what you were doing right before this happened and which specific device driver we're talking about. Also, do yourself a favor and double-check that the SATA cable is actually seated properly on both the motherboard and the drive. A "disk read error" is basically the computer's way of saying communication between the motherboard and the disk has completely broken down. Just swap out the SATA cable for a different one and try plugging the drive into a different SATA port on the board to see if that clears things up.

Are they?

http://www.craigslist.com/ms/pc-computers/f...-ad-9355987
http://www.craigslist.com/ms/pc-computers/t...-ad-9494570
http://www.craigslist.com/ms/pc-computers/r...-ad-9446969
http://www.craigslist.com/ms/pc-computers/a...-ad-9203231
http://www.craigslist.com/ms/pc-computers/r...-ad-9433750

And somewhere along the lines of that last guy from the previous thread.

Transcend, Adata, and PQI usually offer a 3-year warranty, whereas most other brands just stick to 2 years:

http://www.bestbuy.com/tvr...st-buy/0702297
http://www.amazon.com/van...usb-30/0140477
http://www.newegg.com/index.php?page=artikl&id=051520382

The housings on those PQI drives are actually pretty solid, though.

Maybe try to figure out exactly which card you're dealing with first—if you can nail down the model, just scour Craigslist for it. Honestly, it shouldn't set you back more than $17. You can even find them for peanuts on eBay if you look around: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-M51T-WI...-/321143175235

Weird, the only thing that actually makes sense to me here—honestly—is that the card is just dead.

Check your BIOS settings first—make sure you haven't accidentally disabled the wireless card in there. And honestly, since you’ve already got Linux sitting right in front of you, you might as well try this out: http://sunilkumarn.wordpress.com/201...rdware-switch/