Posts by Benjamin King2

Yeah, you're losing data if you format the drive. So what do you mean when you say "nothing happens"?

Arthur Anderson49 said:So, I go back and hit Change Program. A massive list of all my apps pops up, but—get this—Word 2003 isn't even on there. Which is hilarious, considering it’s sitting right there on my hard drive working perfectly fine.

Look, besides that list of programs, there’s a browse button sitting at the bottom. Just use that to hunt down winword.exe inside your old Office installation folder.

64-bit PCI-X slots are basically relics at this point—you'd mostly find them on server boards used for RAID controllers back in the day. As for those two boards you mentioned, they both have 5V PCI slots, so from a physical standpoint, you shouldn't run into any issues. Plus, the card itself works in a 3.3V slot too, and since those boards have two slots available, you’re covered either way. From what I've gathered over on the ESI forums, though, getting drivers to work on Windows 7/8 is a total nightmare—it looks like people are just slapping old Windows XP drivers on there and praying it works... pretty pathetic, honestly.

😂

wanderingseal2, I already laid out what you should try up there in post #4.

So, what’s the actual error code popping up on the BSOD? Also—just a thought—maybe try not using it as your default playback device for a bit.

I’ve dealt with something pretty similar—actually had a nearly identical headache back when I was messing around with old IDE drives. You might want to try plugging that dock into a USB 3.0 port; I used to run into this thing where the drive would be totally "invisible" if it was hooked up to a USB 2.0 port, or it would show up sporadically in Disk Management only to vanish the second I actually tried to access it. My best guess? It’s just a power issue—USB 2.0 ports don't always push enough juice, but once I switched over to a 3.0 port, everything worked perfectly fine. If your laptop doesn't have a 3.0 port, maybe grab a friend's rig and see if it behaves when plugged into a 3.0 slot.

What kind of docking station are we even talking about here—other than the fact that it’s bright red? 🙂 Drop a link so I can actually see it. Also, go ahead and check Disk Management under your Administrative Tools to see if the drive is even showing up.

wanderingseal2, maybe try using these recovery partitions: http://www.easeus.com/partition-recovery/

Look, this is a pretty solid wireless mouse—definitely feels high-quality enough when you consider what you're actually paying for it. It’s also got some decent battery-saving tech baked in, so you should realistically get about 12 months out of a single set of batteries before things go south:

And, honestly, it’s a bit more than that last one—it’s got an extra half-kilo of RAM, a larger hard drive, and a dedicated Wi-Fi card, though it does rely on integrated graphics. I'd say around $300-$350.

Jeis, did you check to make sure your trash didn't end up stuck in the wheel well or something?

Scott Hayes96 said:I just want max performance for gaming—I don't care if it's single or dual GPU, I just want everything this thing can throw at me. Power consumption isn't my problem, and I'm only running one monitor anyway.

One monitor? You're rocking a GeForce GTX 780 right now. If you're eyeing a Radeon R9 card, you're going to have to sit tight until some reliable benchmarks actually drop—the card hasn't even hit the shelves yet, so nobody truly knows what kind of performance we're looking at.

Usually, you'll find those screws tucked right under the Teflon feet—just peel them off and you should be able to crack the mouse open without any trouble.

Look, sure, CHKDSK exists, but it’s pretty basic—honestly, it’s kind of unreliable—so you’re probably better off skipping it. You never really know what it actually did, or if it even did anything at all, because those logs start lying the second things get messy. 😁

Scott Hayes96 said:I'm trying to decide if I should pick up an AMD Radeon R9 290X or an AMD Radeon HD 7990

Better for what? It really just comes down to preference—some people want a single GPU, others swear by dual setups, some care about their power bill while others couldn't care less. If you're playing games that actually support CrossFire, the 7990 will definitely pull ahead, plus it's a much smoother experience if you're running a multi-monitor setup with two or three screens.

Brandon Carter17 said:And what about pairing it with an AMD Phenom II X6 6300?

That Phenom can definitely handle an AMD Radeon HD 7970—though honestly, for that resolution, I wouldn't bother going higher than an AMD Radeon HD 7850. Anything more is just flushing cash down the toilet. Plus, jumping to an AMD Phenom II X6 6300 isn't really much of an upgrade; you might squeeze out a few extra FPS in some specific multi-core titles, but in most cases, the standard Phenom will actually perform better. What kind of Corsair power supply are you running?

mellownomad30 said:What’s a realistic price for this setup?

Intel Core i5 with ASUS
ASRock z77 extreme4
Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb
msi 660ti OC 2gb
ssd 128gb ocz vertex4
xfx pro 550w
hdd seagate 1tb green
cooler master case with a hot swap bay for drives (not exactly sure which model)

Asking because I might be looking for work soon—don't want to make any rash moves.
Can anyone give me a real estimate, and what would it go for if I need to move it by tomorrow?

Thanks

Just shave about 15% off whatever total you see in your bank account. Honestly, the rig is basically brand new and still under warranty—you should have zero issues moving it.

driftingwalker19 said:Cooler Master Elite 335
Seasonic 430W
ASRock 870 EXTREME3 - AMD 870
AMD Athlon II X4 640 BX 3.0
DDR3 2Gb Kingmax 1333MHz CL9
XFX HD6850 775M 1GB DDR5
Samsung 1TB SATA2 F3
DVDRW LG 22x GH22NS black
+ syncmaster 2223nw
Could use an estimate, please

It should move for $2,500, maybe even $200-$100 more than that.

Run a scan on the drive using this tool: http://hddscan.com/

If the S.M.A.R.T. report comes back clean, then yeah—your data is just corrupted. You’ll need to wipe those files, run a defrag on the drive, and then copy them back over. Honestly, you can't "fix" a CRC error—once that happens, the data triggering the error is basically junk anyway. And hey, leaving 1 or 2 GB of space empty is plenty; it's not like you're trying to leave 50 GB empty, so don't sweat it too much.

As for that folder issue, go ahead and check the drive's properties—specifically the security tab—to make sure your user account actually has full read/write permissions. Or, if you want my two cents, it could just be some nasty virus making a mess of things.

You won't even notice it under normal lighting conditions—honestly. And trust me, I've seen plenty of Dell monitors with way worse backlight bleeding than this.

Motherboard - $150
CPU - $300
RAM - $300
GPU - $150
Hard Drive - $150
Case + PSU - maybe $100-$150 if you're lucky

Actually, that’s totally within the factory specs—with Dell, they allow for a 25% variance between the brightest and darkest points on the panel. Though, honestly, I really hope you aren't sitting there staring at a monitor in pitch-black darkness unless you're looking to absolutely wreck your eyesight.