Robert Johnson8 said:So, this guy over at ADM tries to sell me this monitor —like, seriously? I ask him for a solid recommendation and he just drops this in my lap. Hilarious.
Go with the TS model instead of the HS. Or maybe grab a 22" like this:
There aren't any desktop or, I don't know, laptop versions available. 🙂 Honestly, I have no clue why they'd even bother putting "Desktop" in the model name—it’s just an external drive like any other one you'd find sitting on your desk.
Robert Johnson8 said:Your link is broken, by the way—doesn't work at all. And honestly, how are you even supposed to tell if a mouse is actually high-quality just by looking at it online? It’s not like you can feel the build or test the sensor through a screen. I can't exactly head down to the local Best Buy to test them out either, since that would mean driving all the way from San Diego to Los Angeles just to pick up some gear. 😢
Robert Johnson8 said:So, yeah—looks like I’m backing away from the high-end budget after all. Let me ask one more time just to be sure: if I’ve got $200 total, can I get a decent gaming mouse and a keyboard for about $100 each? Or maybe less? I don't know, I've seen cheaper stuff out there, but who knows if it actually works:
Keyboard:
Mouse:
I see people recommending Portio for peripherals—do they do free shipping? And how long does it usually take to arrive? Also, is it better to grab everything from one shop, or should I split it up between a few places? 🤷 Honestly, I just really dig this specific look for the gear, so that's why I picked these.
Look, you could always just hit up Walmart if you want, it doesn't really matter. There are some user reviews for that keyboard over here:
So, turns out the Amazon expansion from 1 TB is actually about half the price of the 2 TB drive—math is mathing, I guess. If you're looking for something beefier, you can snag a 3 TB Seagate Technology drive for roughly $333 right here:
I know to $33 everything looks pretty much the same—it’s all just plastic and sensors, right?—but this is basically an entry-level gaming mouse, so it should actually hold up a bit better than the cheap stuff.
Have you actually used a mouse pad with a built-in palm rest before, or is there some specific reason you're hunting one down? Those things are pretty hard to come by—and honestly, they usually just drive up the price of the whole setup for no real reason (take the Razer Vespula, for example).
Look, just try running that ISO through 7-Zip—compress it, move it over to another machine, and then decompress it there. 7-Zip’s compression algorithm is actually solid—it should be able to shave off that extra 100 MB without breaking a sweat.
You’re looking at a formatted capacity of about 14.9 GB—that’s really the ceiling for what you can expect. I’ve got three Pirates sticks myself that hit that maxed-out mark perfectly—so, 14.9 GB per drive, or 29.8 GB if you're running a 32 GB stick—but then I’ve also got a Kingmax and a SanDisk lying around that don't quite "deliver" the full advertised capacity. It just goes to show—it all depends on the manufacturer, I guess. Anyway, what's the actual plan here—you trying to run a game directly off that stick?😕
Coolermaster—look, they aren't exactly the gold standard or anything, but compared to Uuftek, they’re basically a NASA space shuttle. Plus, you get a solid 3-year warranty.
Look, you can just grab a 2 GB stick and swap out that 1 GB module you're currently running—boom, you've got 4 GB of RAM total—it's pretty straightforward:
The motherboard tops out at 8 GB, so if you really wanted to max it out, you could try hunting down two 4 GB modules, though honestly, I have no clue where you'd even find those these days.
Does this happen whenever you try to print anything at all, or is it just acting up when you're using one specific app?
Also—just a thought—have you messed with the paper settings lately? If you're using some cheap, off-brand paper from the dollar store, the weight can be totally inconsistent, and honestly, that’s enough to throw everything out of whack.
Maybe try a clean reinstall of the driver—and honestly, check if there’s a newer version hanging out on Canon's website first—because sometimes the driver just decides to act up like this for no reason at all.
Look, honestly, that thing is barely an upgrade over integrated graphics—it’s a card meant for a basic PC setup, not actual gaming. Sure, you'll be able to run Madden NFL or maybe some stuff in Los Angeles, but FIFA is going to push it just a bit too hard. If you want to actually play games on a budget, I’d say grab a GeForce GT 630 as your absolute baseline.
What does a "good deal" even mean here? $33? Paying less? Because for $67, you could snag a used card that absolutely smokes that GeForce GT 210.
You hit the nail on the head regarding the VRAM, though—you aren't ever going to actually need that much capacity for the games you're looking at.
First you go ahead and dump the entire spec sheet for your rig, and then—instead of actually playing a quiz—you just get an answer handed to you on a silver platter. 😁
By the way—just a heads up—that's laptop RAM you're looking at.
Standard warranties don't typically cover lightning strikes or stuff like that—it’s just how it goes—but hey, you could always give it a shot and see what happens.
With the S Canvio, you actually get some decent backup and recovery software bundled in—the Essentials version is basically just a naked drive without any bells or whistles. The actual hardware inside both models is identical.