Posts by Benjamin King2

That version has about 6 or 7 updates under its belt—just make sure you’ve actually got the FHL version.

Grab the @bios utility right here: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...d=2287#utility

Then, go ahead and snag the latest BIOS version from this link: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...?pid=2287#bios

Once you've got that, just unzip the file—you'll see three different files in there, but don't get distracted—you only care about the one that actually matches your motherboard's name. Open up @bios, point it toward the folder where you unpacked that specific flash file, and let it do its thing to flash the BIOS.

Who’s actually stepping up here? Look, just try to walk me through what's happening—more clearly this time—and where exactly you're hitting a wall. Which drivers were you pulling off the web?

Have you given Startup Repair a shot yet? If that’s a bust, maybe just wipe the C drive entirely—create a new partition and then go ahead and format it.

The manual claims it supports a voltage range from 1.185V up to 2.135V—and you can tweak it in tiny 0.005V increments—so you’ll just have to dig around until you figure out how to switch from Auto to Manual mode. Try messing with the +/- keys; there’s gotta be a way to change it.

Are you seeing the exact same latencies on both modules? You might want to double-check that the timings in the BIOS actually match what's printed on the sticks themselves—sometimes things get wonky there. If the latencies look right, try bumping up the RAM voltage just a hair to see if that stabilizes things.

copperotter65 said:Hey there. I’m not entirely sure where to post this, but this thread seemed like the closest fit—mods, feel free to move this if there's a better spot for it. 🙂

So, here's the deal: Is it actually possible to get any decent money for an original copy of Windows 95 these days? I recently stumbled upon a pristine, never-used version, and I'm wondering if it's even worth trying to sell it to collectors.

Collectors of what, exactly? 😁 You can find them on eBay for less than 10 bucks.

Brian Edwards78 said:Yeah, because clearly the issue is just the browser—it’s definitely not those clumsy admins messing around with the forum settings. 😂

If my memory serves me right—and it usually does—everything went sideways after some ad banners were deployed; the webmaster totally botched the implementation, not the admins.
😁

Some guy messed things up about 2 or 3 years ago—honestly, you haven't been able to see any Violations on Microsoft Edge for ages now.

I never actually said I was happy about going the cheap route. 🙂

So, if they were such incredible pieces of gear after all, why on earth did you end up buying those Razer's pieces of junk? 😁

Samsung's NBA panel isn't actually any worse than the e-commerce tech found in that LG model—honestly, it’s even cheaper $67. Plus, once you account for $133, you’ll probably end up needing to pick up some budget peripherals anyway
.

Monitor:
Mouse:
Headphones:

As for the keyboard—just grab whatever you feel like. Let's be real, there's no way you're squeezing a high-end gaming board into that budget anyway.

Just throw three salmon in there—unless you want those guys peddling cheap beer, old potatoes, and worn-out tires to mess with you. 😁

Just hop into your BIOS and get that clock speed set up properly.

We’re looking at roughly $2,000 for the tower plus another $800 for the peripherals—so, a grand total of about $2,800. If this rig is actually as old as you say it is, though, you really need to double-check if there's any valid warranty left on those components. Make sure you ask him that, seriously.

An AMD Athlon 6000 + 2 x3 setup paired with a $83 monitor. So—what kind of dual GPU setup are we actually looking at here?

It’s pretty much on par with an AMD Radeon HD 7770.

swiftdriver30 said:I did a little digging online—some folks are saying I need this specific Visual C ++ package—so I went ahead and installed the 2008, 2010, and 2010 versions, obviously the 64-bit ones. But nope, still nothing. Just the same old story.

You should probably grab the 32-bit versions too—it’s entirely possible the app is hardcoded to hunt for a 32-bit version regardless of what OS you're actually running.

CPU - $30
Motherboard - $70
RAM - maybe $150
Drive and GPU - roughly $60-$70 each
PSU + case - probably $100, assuming you can actually find someone willing to touch that junk

Look, just try to put the thing together and get it running—throw Windows XP on there—and then maybe you can sell the whole lot for $133, though honestly, it might not even be worth that much. You’re never going to move these parts individually unless you're lucky enough to find a buyer for the drive or the RAM.