You've got it backwards. 😁 If you run the math—450*100/82—it means your power supply is actually going to pull about 550W from the wall when it's hitting full load. Not quite what you think, right? Anyway, this is a solid board if you want to grab one:
Look, my advice? Try downclocking that Intel Core i3 first—just set it to the lowest possible multiplier you can find—and then see if you can actually unlock it on this specific motherboard. It’s worth doing just to see if overclocking is even an option here; there's no point in wasting your cash on a board that won't let you push things if it's locked tight.
Christian Mendoza60 said:Just a heads-up—unlocking the cores will happen on all 4 cores...
Don't even think about doing that. This motherboard wasn't built to handle 125W processors—you'll end up with a paperweight and zero friends left to sell it to.
redgull8 said:So, what’s the image quality looking like once it's done?
Look, any time you're dealing with a conversion—it's just physics at this point—you're going to see some loss in quality. It's basically unavoidable when you're working with compressed video.
Either your backlight is shot or the inverter isn't pushing any juice—you really need to figure out which one is actually dead first. You’re probably looking at replacing one or the other.
Gary Flores64 said:I'm picking up Windows 7 Pro in the next few days so I was wondering—is there anything specific I should look out for when buying it? I really don't want to end up with some blank CD or something. >.<
I'll probably grab it through Craigslist or some other online ad listing.
By the way, I stumbled upon a listing for "Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with SP1 OEM refurbished."
What does "OEM refurbished" actually mean? Something is ringing a bell—I think I read somewhere that certain versions of Windows are locked to the original hardware they came with, so you can't just install them on a custom PC we build ourselves or something like that.
Anyway, I just don't want to throw my money down the drain.
It's likely some kind of OEM recovery disk from a brand like Dell or HP—you should definitely ask the seller about that. Though, honestly, they might not even know. 😁 There's a chance it won't even work.
Thomas Wells5 said:Let me get this straight—that 2.5-inch drive is specifically for laptops, which explains why they're charging an arm and a leg for it xD Honestly, though, given how small they are, I wouldn't say it's actually a steal 😁 Thanks for the input
If you’ve got a little extra cash to burn, you could grab a 500 GB drive here:
Larry Ortiz5 said:Man, hard drive prices have really taken a dive.
Still doesn't compare to how cheap they were before that massive hurricane hit, though. 😁
Head over to the Network and Sharing Center and pull up your Local Area Connection—just make sure the connection hasn't been disabled on you—then hop into Properties and double-check that the TCP/IPv6 protocol is turned off.
Yeah, that one’s solid—now the real question is whether it actually works for you if you fly left-handed. You've got the throttle on a slider at the base of the stick, the rudder is handled by twisting, and since all the buttons are programmable, honestly, you’ll have a hell of a time finding anything better for that kind of cash.