electricharbor30 said:I'm wondering if I could scrape together some cash by selling off my old rig or just individual parts—maybe trade them up for something newer without breaking the bank too much. Some of the components are actually pretty banged up, so I’m torn between trying to sell the whole thing or just stripping it for parts; I could really use some advice there. Anyway, here’s what I’m currently running:...
Sell off whatever still works piece by piece, and honestly? Just toss the junk in the trash.
Brian James4 said:Alright, thanks for the hand. I’ll probably list this stuff on Craigslist soon at those prices—as for the monitor, I'll see; they go for anywhere from $50 to $100, so I'll aim somewhere in the middle. I'm keeping the power supply, too—hopefully, it's got enough life left in it to pull through. 🙂 Now I'm just wondering about those two coolers I mentioned—is it actually worth holding onto them for a newer, beefier CPU or GPU? If not, what kind of cash could I realistically grab for them?
You can definitely hang onto the Freezer—it's miles better than a basic stock cooler, and it'll actually handle an overclock if you decide to push things. That Accelero, though? It's pretty weak for anything remotely high-end. Besides, I don't think anyone is looking to buy an old GPU without a cooler attached anyway.
Call it $300 for the CPU and GPU, maybe another $100 for the RAM, and $200 for the motherboard—then just toss in some cheap little extras for a burner drive and a case. Honestly, you’ve got to sell this stuff off in pieces anyway, because calling a PC a "full configuration" when it doesn't even have a hard drive or a power supply is just being dishonest. 🙂
And you can probably even snag that same monitor for $167 on Craigslist.
Build specs—around $1,000, plus the monitor is roughly $700. $267 I have absolutely no clue where you got $1,400 from—honestly, if you had that kind of cash lying around, you’d be buying a brand-new monitor that would blow that Samsung out of the water.
I honestly think they haven't rolled it out to the retail stores yet—which explains why it says it’s only available at the corporate headquarters. It’s just an older model from a few months back anyway.
From what I’ve gathered checking out reviews on some German tech sites—and believe me, they don't pull punches—that Genesys unit performs pretty poorly, plus you're stuck with a measly one-year warranty.
A LAN drive might be more your speed if you just want something for the house, but honestly, on a 100 Mbit network, your theoretical transfer rate is sitting at 12 MB/s—if you actually manage to hit 10 in the real world, you should probably go buy a lottery ticket.
Well, it really just boils down to what you’re actually trying to do—the main difference is how you're going to use the damn thing. A USB drive is something you plug into one computer at a time, whereas a NAS is built specifically for network access, meaning everyone on the local network can jump in whenever they need to. You can toss a USB stick in your pocket and take it anywhere—it's portable, obviously—but you can't exactly walk around with a NAS tucked under your arm. Honestly, speed shouldn't be the deciding factor here.
It’s either the cable, the case, or the drive itself—honestly, it could be any of them. Try swapping out the cable first. Have you actually tried plugging that drive into a different PC yet?
They ought to be faster—assuming you're actually using a gigabit router, of course. Western Digital claims transfer rates around 100 MB/s, but honestly, I haven’t seen a single benchmark where this drive topped 80 MB/s, and that was just for reading—you can basically cut that in half when you're writing. If you're running on USB 3.0, you're looking at a realistic 60-65 MB/s; though, if your router is stuck with those old 100 Mbit ports, the USB drive will probably end up being the faster option anyway.
Honestly, just pull it right out of the enclosure and plug it directly into the PC—there isn't any real difference between internal and external drives once you're under the hood.
Just grab CCleaner and head into those startup settings—you might want to "unlock" everything that's currently set to launch right when you boot up the machine. Honestly, who knows? One of those background processes could be the culprit causing all this headache.