Posts by darkowl72

fadedsailor17 said:So, here’s the situation. I shut down my PC yesterday around 2:00 PM, and everything was running perfectly. When I fired it back up later that evening, around 7:00 or 8:00, the internet was completely dead. I use Xfinity for my TV and web combo; the TV works fine and the Wi-Fi is up, but the hardwired connection to my computer is totally unresponsive. Of course, I get that dreaded yellow warning triangle in the corner saying, "Ethernet doesn't have a valid IP configuration." I'm running Windows 8.1, and honestly, it was working flawlessly until this happened. When I went to check the router lights to see what was going on... well, that's when things got interesting. It turns out my cat knocked the router off its perch onto the floor. I picked it up and it looks physically fine—every single light is blinking away—but the internet still won't connect. I tried swapping the cables into different ports, but nothing changes; the TV stays on, but the PC remains offline 😕. Since I don't have a spare Ethernet cable lying around, I need to test if the wire itself is shot, or maybe borrow a laptop to rule out some weird hardware issue with my PC's port. Does anyone have any other ideas? I have a nagging feeling that both the cable and the connector might be the culprits, since I always seem to run into these kinds of random glitches 🙂

🙂

Call tech support and ask them to check if the router is actually functioning; they can run remote diagnostics. Also, can you even access the router settings?

If the impact from hitting the floor caused a reset, you might want to go through the settings one by one...

Michelle Gonzalez11 said:Here is the situation (pardon the rushed posts—work is a madhouse right now and I am absolutely exhausted):

Earlier this spring, my hard drive died. Since money was tight, the PC sat idle until three days ago. I picked up a new drive at Best Buy a few days back, hooked it up, and installed Windows 10 without any issues. That's when I noticed in This PC that while 4GB of RAM is installed, only 2GB is usable. After digging through some hardware forums, I realized quite a few people with this specific motherboard (an ASUS model) hit similar walls due to supposedly incompatible memory—which is bizarre, because I never had an issue with it before.

Reading further, I saw mentions of CPU issues caused by bent pins, but that's impossible; the last time the processor was touched was eighteen months ago during a repaste, and everything worked perfectly after that. Then, I tried a Reset BIOS by pulling the battery for a few seconds, and that triggered this strange boot loop—the fans spin to max, everything shuts down after five seconds, then it boots normally. Because of that weird startup, I jump straight into the UEFI and select "Load Setup Defaults," but it does nothing; after a restart, the same thing happens. Regardless, I let the computer finish booting, enter Windows, and suddenly the usable memory dropped from 2GB to 1.99GB. Another suggested fix was flashing the UEFI, which I did (moving from F3 to F12), followed by what you told me: "Load Setup Defaults." Suddenly, This PC and Task Manager showed 3.25GB usable. I rebooted again, and the system finally recognized the memory properly (though that odd boot behavior persisted after every reset). Once I installed the GPU drivers and antivirus, a UEFI checksum error popped up, saying it was retrieving a recovery source from the HPA. From there, it was total chaos. Sometimes, pressing the power button just starts a continuous loop of turning on and off, and on the rare occasions it actually stays on, I get a disk read error. I took the drives over to my brother's place to see if they survived those violent power cycles, and there I found the capacity listed as only 32MB—formatting won't touch it. Apparently, this happens with certain ASUS and Gigabyte boards when the UEFI fails...

I honestly don't get it, no matter how much I try to wrap my head around it. What kind of drives are we even talking about here? Did you make sure they're plugged in right, and what are you using to check them? Like, what does an actual drive testing tool say?

And regarding the UEFI, well, you should know what the error message was—did the update actually go through or did it just crash?

It’s just not happening. These weak dual-core Celeron chips are a joke... and as far as graphics go, that ancient integrated chip gets a zero from me if you actually want to play anything.

At least look for an N2940, N3540, or a 3825U—something with at least 2 cores/4 threads, or ideally 4 cores...

And honestly, stay far away from any AMD Pentium or Snapdragon chips too.

You’re being pretty sneaky here...

Look, that's fine, but at least try to show some progression in how you approach this. If you didn't realize, this forum isn't a place for bickering or messing around; people come here specifically for advice when they have no clue what computer gear to buy.

And the advice comes from people who actually know their stuff—people who volunteer their knowledge, effort, and time for free just to help those newcomers out. We don't ask for or expect anything at all from people seeking help, but we do politely ask them to read the top topic so they understand how to ask questions and so we can figure out how to address their specific needs and budget.

But you're totally abusing that. How? In case it hasn't clicked yet, Jeffrey Chavez6 spent his time hunting down a laptop that fits your specs, and I also wasted my time digging up that Toshiba you couldn't even be bothered to provide a link for. And even now, you haven't posted a link so we can see the price. What are you hiding? The store? The cost? Trust me, we know way better than you where to find things in American retailers and what they actually cost. Then you go ahead and claim that your budget isn't an issue. I believe it's not. You're the issue.

With the way you're acting, you're showing how little you value our expertise, our hard work, and the time we spend on this forum. You're just wasting our time for nothing.

Look, you need to provide a specific link, or if it's not online, write out the exact specs. Otherwise, we’re flying blind here. All I can find is the L50-B-2HF with an i7 processor and Windows pre-installed for over $2.00, so what are we even talking about now? If the budget changed, just tell us if you actually want help... 🤷

First off, there’s a thread you really should have read before posting. Second, I’m not sure how much you actually know about current laptop pricing and availability. For $667, you aren't getting anything at all. With $1333, you’re looking at a budget-tier machine—especially if you need Windows included (check that top thread for details)—which will handle your basic needs just fine, provided you aren't trying to do heavy audio or video editing. I mean, almost any laptop can technically run those tasks, but it comes down to efficiency: on one machine, a video encode takes a couple of hours, while on another, you'll be waiting days...

Did you honestly think you could pick up a Macintosh for that kind of money?

And why don't you just start your own thread like everyone else does? It's impossible to actually answer a question when you guys are busy drowning the whole conversation in technical jargon that nobody cares about...

edit:

Besides, you already did...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...board&_sacat=0

It all depends on which specific model you're rocking. On some versions, the processor isn't soldered down, so how do you actually know yours is? If the motherboard is definitely dead, you really ought to crack the laptop open and check the exact model number yourself. Looking at these prices, it might actually make sense to just order the part and swap it out yourself. Taking it to a repair shop is going to cost you double—and for good reason. Parts aren't cheap, then you've got shipping, sales tax, and labor costs piled on top...

You could try asking for help over here:

http://www.repaircafe.org/

Not really. It’s just going to leave kids frustrated because they have a computer but can't actually play anything on it... For $667, there's honestly no smart way to handle kids using laptops. A tablet or an Android device works fine, sure, but laptops? Not happening.

Let’s take this one step at a time...

Comparing a Mac to a PC is a thankless task. You’re either a PC person or a Mac person... you pick a side and stick to it despite the flaws both sides inevitably have.

Looking at those HP models you linked, I don't see much reason to buy them, though I wouldn't rule out the Envy quite so fast. It has its downsides, sure, but it brings enough to the table. We're talking about a solid Full HD touchscreen 2-in-1 with great build quality, about 6.5 hours of battery life while browsing the web, and Bang & Olufsen speakers that actually sound decent. Since you mentioned audio is a dealbreaker for you, the Bang & Olufsen name carries weight—they aren't usually cutting corners on their audio solutions. I'm not sure where you've been reading reviews, but if you check Notebookcheck (one of the most reliable sources out there), the second link shows that exact configuration, while the first one covers the chassis, keyboard, touchpad, and speakers—which are identical across the whole series:

http://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Envy....125162.0.html
http://www.notebookcheck.net/HP-Envy....150554.0.html

If you're interested in the Asus N series, just keep in mind that I wouldn't bet the house on the battery life given how beefy those processors and GPUs are:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-notebook...ducts_id=12637
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-notebook...ducts_id=13087

When it comes to battery life, the Asus Pro wins with over 10 hours of web surfing. It has its own set of pros and cons, though finding detailed info is a chore since they seem to be drip-feeding specs to Eastern markets first to test the waters. Even though the Pro line acts like a business machine with some killer features, it feels a bit overpriced to me. A reinforced chassis, an SSD, Windows, and a great battery shouldn't cost nearly $1,500... 🤷

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-notebook...ducts_id=13112

I almost forgot—both the Asus Pro and the Asus N series also feature Bang & Olufsen audio, specifically their ICEpower tech...

I should also mention the Lenovo Yoga 500 in the 2-in-1 category. Like everything else, it has its ups and downs:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-notebook...ducts_id=12766
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Lenovo-....150778.0.html

The situation is pretty much the same for 13.3" laptops; you've got the HP Pavilion x360, the Asus ZenBook, and the Dell Inspiron 7359 to consider:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-notebook...ducts_id=12814
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-notebook...ducts_id=13091
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-notebook...ducts_id=13110

Look, you basically just need to decide what you actually want: do you need raw power to crush heavy software and get some decent gaming done on an Asus N550JX, even if it means dealing with crappy battery life? Or would you prefer slightly weaker hardware that won't murder your battery—in which case, these other options or the 13.3" models might be more your speed...

Yeah, Dell. Those little devils charge an arm and a leg. Even the 13.3" models are already blowing past your budget, and don't even get me started on the 11.6" versions—they're even worse. You aren't finding anything under $5,000 here:

http://www.nabava.net/prijenosna-rac...?&se=70359&s=2

Look, if it's true, that Laurence is a total steal. And honestly, how do you not see the difference between those two 5559 models? That price tag is 😬
.
You hit the nail on the head regarding the 5558s. 🙂

Look, if we're talking big picture, Dell had some solid models in their last shipment of the 5558:

Or you could go with the newer, slightly better 5559 from the most recent batch, though it's stuck with a glossy screen and a basic 1366x768 resolution:

The listings also show an excellent Latitude that hits all the right marks—great specs, an anti-glare FullHD screen, an SSD, and Windows. Honestly, I’m a bit skeptical, though. M-computers is just an online retailer without its own inventory or warehouse, so I have no idea where they're sourcing this stuff when they're the only ones offering it. Either way, do your homework; if it's legit, I won't say another word... just buy it...

That's pretty much it. But I have to mention again that these configurations are very close to what was requested, and these specific builds are definitely worth considering:

And then, finally, take one more look at the Yoga:

You'll see that what it offers is extremely competitive in terms of both build and price. You basically get the touchscreen for free, so if you don't plan on using it, whatever—just let it sit there... 😬

I wonder if the Inspiron 13 7000 series will ever actually land here in any decent configurations. As for pricing, we’re basically paying a tax for being a relatively small, uninteresting market where every single fluctuation in the dollar feels like a national disaster—especially since the dollar just keeps getting stronger. There's honestly nothing anyone can do about that.

Stay far away from those two options you found on Best Buy; they're weak configurations that won't actually get the job done. Forget them and don't even bother looking at them... 😬

Alright, let's say $4,200 is our solid budget ceiling. Based on that, I'd suggest this Lenovo:

http://laptopmedia.com/review/lenovo...-poor-quality/

It has an excellent matte screen and the specs are perfectly fine. Don't let the i3 processor freak you out; it's just slightly weaker than, say, an i5 5200u, but it's still leagues better than those two from your Best Buy links.

There isn't a dedicated service hatch on the bottom, but it's incredibly easy to pop the whole bottom panel off to upgrade the RAM or swap the built-in drive for an SSD. This hits our price target, and you can just handle the upgrades later as you go... 😬 You'll also have to buy Windows separately, but honestly, I don't think that's a dealbreaker. Let's be real: finding a high-quality 13.3" laptop with Windows included for $4,200 is "Mission Impossible." This is the smartest move you can make. One minor downside is the warranty period for business entities, so you might want to look into some extended manufacturer warranty options or perhaps a Geek Squad plan, which would be more cost-effective. But you don't need to worry about that right now; it can wait a year...

To give you some perspective, check out this retail link showing most of what's available in stores. You'll notice that under $4,300, there are only about 11 different 13.3" models total, and only three of them come with Windows 10 or Windows 8—and all three of those have pathetic processors.

On the site, you can see there's an Acer with a very similar setup to the Lenovo I suggested, but it has a standard glossy screen. In my opinion, that makes it a non-starter compared to the Lenovo with the FullHD IPS matte display...

It’s useful to know when something is happening—notifications, maybe an incoming Skype call—though honestly, you're much better off using a headset with a mic.
But if your goal is actually listening to music, don't bother. The fundamental physics that make decent speakers work (not even talking high-end gear here) comes down to surface
membrane area, material quality, and the internal volume of the enclosure. A thin plastic monitor housing with almost zero internal space definitely fails those tests.
Sure, the sound might be slightly better than your average cheap laptop, but "slightly better" still doesn't meet the basic standards for volume or audio fidelity.
Some laptops actually sound significantly better because they use premium audio tuning from brands like Bose, Sonos, or other big names—something you just won't find in a standard monitor.

Bottom line: skip it. Even a basic set of $20 Genius or Logitech speakers will outperform this. If you actually want enough kick to throw a small party in your room,
you’re going to have to shell out some real cash for something functional:

Your laptop has two memory slots and tops out at 16GB total (2x 8GB). So, if you're sitting on 4GB right now, you just need to grab another 4GB stick. As for which specific RAM to buy, check what darkowl72 suggested, though it probably isn't any of those options. Honestly, there's no point in buying the part if you aren't planning to install it yourself. First off, you'll void your warranty, and second, these things are built so poorly that you have to basically gut the entire machine just to perform a simple RAM upgrade. It’s idiotic design...

http://www.nabava.net/prijenosna-rac...7472641#ponude
http://www.nabava.net/prijenosna-rac...-ghz__17639731
http://www.nabava.net/prijenosna-rac...-ghz__18070111

A smaller screen doesn't necessarily mean a cheaper price tag than a larger one. Usually, it's actually the opposite. 😬 Look, the total cost might work out if you shift things around a bit, but it really just depends on what you're looking for.

SSDs are pretty rare in the laptops we usually see here, so you’ll likely be stuck doing an upgrade yourself. As for upgrade options, we have to look at every single model individually because they're all different. You can swap an HDD for an SSD in almost any of them, but finding a second drive bay is rare—unless there's a DVD drive you can pull out and replace with an SSD. RAM can generally be upgraded on most models.

Regarding resolution, 1366x768 is the standard, and honestly, it's enough for whatever you need to do. Those laptops are also the cheapest. The catch is that most of them come with a glossy coating that boosts color intensity and contrast but creates reflections, which limits your choices. A higher resolution like resolution 1920 x1080 means everything on the screen will look smaller, but you'll fit way more onto your desktop or workspace. Unless you have vision issues, I don't see why you wouldn't go for the higher resolution. The main difference is the price—laptops with lower resolutions are much cheaper, especially if they happen to have decent IPS panels.

The hardware requirements aren't anything special, so there's a massive range of laptops that can handle them. Take a look at those links I sent and let me know what you think, then we can go from there.

The first one is a great clamshell style Dell with a lower resolution. A good place to check out a quality review is here. The main specs for this series are pretty much the same, even if the processor, panel type, and resolution vary, so it gives you a good idea of what to expect.

The second one, a Yoga, is actually more than what you asked for. It has a high-res, quality touch IPS screen, a newer processor with better graphics, and a hybrid drive. Upgrading the memory is easy. It’s incredibly hard to find a laptop that ticks every single box, so for example, while this Yoga is excellent, it doesn't have a matte screen.

Then there are a few Dell options with both lower and higher resolutions...

Out of a few other interesting models that fit your specs, there's this exceptionally well-made Asus n. It's pretty much the top of the line for Asus in terms of build quality, but since the components (CPU and graphics) are mid-range, the price stays reasonable. It won't be a beast for heavy computing or gaming, but for what you need, I think it's a winner.

The Acer is actually worth looking at. Besides having a killer setup with a brand new, lightning-fast processor and solid graphics, it’s got an open M2 slot for dropping in an M2 SSD. Makes the whole upgrade process incredibly easy.

The images are way too huge. Scale them down next time... 😬

Look, speaking generally, if this data is critical and you want it back no matter what—you’ve been poking around the drive too much. Stop touching it. Just leave it turned off. Take it to professionals who do this for a living and actually have the specialized gear to rescue data that hasn't been further damaged by whatever software you've been running on it...

Prices aren't astronomical like they were a few years ago, and most places offer free diagnostics, so at least they can tell you if anything is salvageable and what the damage will do to your wallet:

http://www.infolab.com/pricing/

That’s what I would do, and it’s what I advise anyone who actually cares about the data on a medium like that.

Since you didn't provide exact drive models, I don't know if they're USB 2.0 or USB 3.0, so I'll just say that these issues where a USB drive isn't fully recognized are super common with certain motherboards that don't natively support USB 3.0. The controller tries to find something, fails, and just hangs. I've seen plenty of drives act like they're working when they're actually doing absolutely nothing... Other possible culprits are the cable—which might be USB 2.0 instead of USB 3.0—or the port itself. Front panel ports (on the case) often don't get enough power through the motherboard headers, so you really should be using the ports directly on the backplate.

If it's none of those things, then I think you've pretty much exhausted your options...

Resolution downscaling depends on a ton of variables, but it mostly comes down to whatever panel was slapped into the laptop in the first place. Some panels handle it just fine, while others are an absolute disaster. There’s no real rule of thumb until you actually sit down and test every single game you care about. Honestly, panels perform best at their native resolution. Downscaling doesn't just make the image look like garbage; it also drags down performance because the system has to constantly recalculate and interpolate pixel positions. You aren't going to get a picture that matches the native resolution, and if you end up with a blurry mess, what's even the point of paying extra for a high-res, premium laptop?

The only real rule is that high-end, expensive panels usually handle downscaling pretty decently...

I’m not trying to give you advice here... I was just asking if you knew what it meant. People can't agree on this stuff. Some swear by it because it was factory-repaired and fully tested, while others think once something breaks, it’s just waiting to happen again. As for the specs, they're solid and the price is fair, though personally, that short warranty on such an expensive laptop kind of bugs me. But look, if you hit up a Best Buy service center and ask if you can extend the coverage through their Google service to maybe 😬 2, 3, or even 4 years for a reasonable fee—and you find a good deal—why wouldn't you? Just be upfront that it’s a refurbished unit so there aren't any "we didn't know" excuses later. And if you're going to pull the trigger, move fast. It's a one-of-a-kind listing, and if someone else grabs it first, it's gone.

Regarding the GPU, just head over to notebookcheck.net. Type the card name into their search bar and click the link. About a third of the way down the page, you'll see the FPS benchmarks for various games at different resolutions. Find the game you actually play, check the FPS for your specific resolution, and compare it to the other card. That'll give you your answer.

By the way, in the US, the 950 series usually only comes with GDDR3 memory; I haven't seen a single one with GDDR5, even though they exist. The 960s always come with GDDR5. Notebookcheck says the difference between those two cards using GDDR5 is about 15%—the architecture is basically the same, just with higher clock speeds. That means the gap is even wider compared to the slower memory, especially when you're playing at higher resolutions.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-....138006.0.html
http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-....138026.0.html

Not really. Renew basically means refurbished. It’s a laptop that someone bought, and then either right away or after the warranty expired, something major failed—like the motherboard or the LCD panel—so it got sent back to the factory to be fixed up. Basically, it’s a machine that had some kind of manufacturing defect.

Once the laptop is refurbished, honest dealers sell it at a discount as a renewed unit, but the shady ones try to pass it off as brand new...