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Posts by darkowl72

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Laptop issues / Need help with my laptop in Laptops ·


There’s clearly enough gunk in there to warrant a teardown, and honestly, if you've had it four years, it’s high time for a deep clean. If you end up dropping it off at a repair shop, make sure you point out that noise to them—they might as well swap out the fan while they have the thing open.

If you’re tackling this yourself, grab some thermal paste and refresh it. And hey, if you can manage to grease the fan bearings with some graphite lubricant without breaking anything, that would be a win...

Regarding those temps: looking at the screenshot, they don't look catastrophic, but who knows what happens once the GPU kicks in. The discrepancy might just be because your drive is working overtime while playing video, which naturally bumps the temp up a few degrees. 🤷
Best gaming laptop recommendations? in Laptops ·
One post is plenty. You aren't getting an answer from me if you start spamming multiple threads...
Best external hard drives to buy right now? in Computer Peripherals ·
There’s a lot of debate and a bunch of different theories about this, which is just one of those "phantom" issues you deal with in Windows... People claim that "Safely Remove Hardware" is basically just there to flush out the read-ahead buffers used by the NTFS file system, since it keeps the drive active constantly. With FAT16 or FAT32, the drive is only being accessed during actual reading or writing, so you technically shouldn't even need to eject the media... I guess. 🤷

You can definitely just rip it out when you shut down the machine 😬 but if you really want to try getting that icon back, maybe check out something like this:

https://www.raymond.cc/blog/restore-...hardware-icon/
Laptop issues / Need help with my laptop in Laptops ·
It would’ve been a lot easier if you’d just told me the model, the specs, and how old the laptop actually is...

And you really need to describe the issue better. So, if you stream a video online and it plays fine, but once you download it to your hard drive it starts acting up—is that the gist? If that's the case, I doubt overheating is the culprit, but just to be safe, run some free diagnostic tools to check your temps (CPU, GPU, and drive).

If you think it’s overheating because the thing is old and out of warranty, you should probably tear it down, clean it out, and maybe swap the thermal paste. You can do it yourself or take it to a local repair shop.

Whatever you do, don't go shoving compressor tubes into the vents to blow it out. All you're doing is spraying dust deeper into the internals, and you might end up killing the fan by forcing it to spin way too fast in the wrong direction...
There are way too many variables here to give you any actual advice. Plus, finding a decent 17" laptop running Windows for under $400 is basically mission impossible. I’m not suggesting anything until you narrow down what you actually need.

Regarding those two specifically, I don't know where they came from or what they cost, but I wouldn't recommend buying anything off Craigslist. It might look perfect on paper, but if you're looking for a legitimate business that provides a receipt and a warranty, I’m just not feeling good about picking up gear through random classified ads...

If you're okay with that risk, fine—that's on you. But between those two options, the Dell is obviously the better pick; it has a solid processor and dedicated graphics, which should be plenty for what you're trying to do. Toss in a 3-year warranty and you're set.

If you really want a 17" machine with Windows, this is more like what you should be hunting for:
What is going on with this??? in Laptops ·
For basic everyday stuff, all you really care about is having four cores, which both of these have... anything beyond that is just extra noise... 🤷

The first one (Dell) is a pretty solid deal since it comes with Windows pre-installed, just make sure you realize it’s a 14" screen instead of 15.6".
Best external hard drives to buy right now? in Computer Peripherals ·
Check the system tray in the bottom right corner. Sometimes the icon hides itself when you aren't using it—do you see any USB devices listed there?

And if you right-click on the drive icon in my Computer, does the Eject option show up at all?

I’m really not comfortable just ripping it out... I guess the only way to do that safely is to shut down the computer entirely. 😬
HDD - macOS says it's dying, but... in Hardware ·
I wouldn't call it a false alarm; you're telling me exactly what's wrong. Check how old that drive actually is and see if it's still under warranty—if so, get it replaced. If you want to try one last thing, run a full format, not just a quick one, then reinstall macOS and see if the issue persists. If it does, that drive is a ticking time bomb and could die on you at any second.

And while you're messing around with it, you might as well double-check the cables and connectors too...
👍 My boy is gonna love this!
Headphone recommendations? in Computer Peripherals ·
I wouldn't know anything about those differences... sorry...
I'll write more on my PC (and on some other forums) once I'm back. You can find my top threads on laptops and tablets there, but I barely have time because work is killing me here and I can't spend all day hanging out on forums. Like I said, the Nvidia GTX 960 uses basically the same chassis as the Nvidia GTX 950, just with different core and memory clock speeds. The real kicker is the video memory; the 960 exclusively uses GDDR5, whereas you sometimes run into slower GDDR3 versions with the 950. Fact is, the 960 will squeeze out a few more FPS, but it really comes down to what the game prefers: some titles will take advantage of the GPU, while others would much rather have a beefier processor.

You can check the FPS comparisons for both cards in various games right here:

http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-....138026.0.html
http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-....138006.0.html

For GTA5, the 960 definitely pulls ahead, so it would be nice to have. But again, I'll repeat: the Intel i7 4720HQ has 4 physical cores but 8 virtual cores via hyperthreading, plus higher base and turbo frequencies—things some games value more than raw graphics power. The Intel i5 6300HQ is an i5 and only has 4 physical cores with no hyperthreading support.

So, what should you pick? I already mentioned my preference leans toward the Nvidia option, and I laid out why in my previous post. Since you're taking your time to buy this laptop and weighing your pros and cons, if you can swing it, I’d recommend stretching your budget to that more expensive Nvidia model:


http://www.notebookcheck.net/Asus-N5....145820.0.html

Because it's the best combo of CPU, GPU, and display, plus it comes with an SSD. An SSD is a total game changer—everything loads instantly, everything is snappy, and you don't have to deal with a grinding hard drive or endless waiting times...

If you're worried about storage, just manage your space better (meaning don't install every single random app or game you see just to let them sit there untouched for months). 256GB is plenty. And if you're one of those people who hoards movies and music, external drives are dirt cheap.

It feels like a "two birds, one stone" situation (CPU and GPU), but honestly, in this case, it's more like two and a half birds 😬, because for only a 10% price difference, you're getting an SSD, a metal chassis, and a much better screen too...
Headphone recommendations? in Computer Peripherals ·
I’m not going to weigh in on the headset selection because, honestly, you probably won't find anything significantly better at that price point. Medusa has been around long enough that we'd already know if they were garbage.

But when it comes to the sound card? Now I have an opinion. 😬 My son actually bought some high-end Razer headphones a while back that came with their own USB sound card. But he could have just plugged them directly into the motherboard's audio jack—I'm pretty sure his board was identical to yours. The difference in quality was night and day. It just goes to show that most onboard audio processors are basically useless (unless you're rocking one of those high-end enthusiast boards these days).

The bottom line is this: those headphones will sound fine on integrated audio if you're tight on cash, but they aren't going to reach their full potential until you invest in a dedicated sound card.
Whether the memory is soldered to the board or not doesn't actually matter; what matters is if the laptop has free expansion slots if you need them later. Personally, I think Asus is the way to go because they pack the most punch in terms of internal specs (CPU, GPU), making it the most logical choice. Aiming for the N or G (GL) series is also smart since they don't cut corners on build quality. So, you're making a good call regardless of which one you grab. The F series is a step down from those, lacks a backlit keyboard, and honestly, I don't see many models in that line offering decent CPUs or GPUs. Also, Asus gives a 2-year warranty plus some Asus promotions during the first year, though I think you have to register for that within 7 days of purchase.

Now for the nitpicks. Obviously, an IPS screen is better, but you pay a premium for it. As for the processor, the Intel i5 4200h is plenty, no question there, but for the money you're spending, you could find an Intel i7 4720HQ, an Intel i5 6300HQ, or an Intel i7 6700HQ. All these chips stay under 50W. The 6300 and 6700 are newer, so in terms of raw power, the weakest would be the Intel i5 4200h, then the Intel i5 6300HQ, then the Intel i7 4720HQ, and finally the Intel i7 6700HQ—though the gap between the last two is pretty minor.

Regarding graphics, the Nvidia GTX 950 is really the only option unless you want to blow your budget by about $167, in which case you can get the Nvidia GTX 960 in this
new GL model. Oh, and don't forget to mention the new GL series; it was supposed to be the successor to the G series, but that didn't happen. The G-series is still being sold and is priced slightly higher than the GLs. What's the catch? From what I can see, the G-series has an LCD panel covering 72% of the NTSC profile and a metal-plastic chassis, while the GL uses a 60% panel and a plastic body. Basically, they did a quick redesign using cheaper materials and a cheaper LCD panel to create the GL series for budget gamers—or as a sales manager would put it, "filling a market niche they identified."

That doesn't mean the new GLs are bad, just that they are "optimized" and built more economically. Regardless, I only see two models available: a cheaper one with the 4200h which is a pretty modest setup, and the one I linked that's over budget. And that cheaper one is still more expensive than the N-series with the same specs. You could say the price difference of about $117 is just paying for a "gamer" chassis. And even then, it's plastic, whereas the N-series should have aluminum.

If you ask me, the best move is this N-series model, unless looks are everything to you, because the N-line doesn't look particularly "gamer" 😬

I've been talking about the higher-end laptops with IPS screens, but like I said at the start, there are cheaper options with similar power in the K series. If build quality and materials aren't dealbreakers for you, and you don't care about an IPS screen, you could save some cash with something like this:

http://www.architect.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=12349
http://www.architect.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=12841

or similar models coming soon.

The only thing that could give Asus a run for its money is Acer, because their new Nitro models in the V5-591 series are coming out with new processors and Nvidia GTX 950m graphics. They are priced quite competitively, though it's worth noting that in the description for the V5 LCD panels...Probably a typo saying it's got that ColorBlast panel with 90% NTSC coverage, since those screens are usually reserved for the VN7 and G9 series. If you want to check out my review on the V5, it's [URL='http://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Aspire-V5-591G-71K2-Notebook-Review.156375.0.html';]here, where I mention that specific LCD panel isn't exactly anything to write home about—but honestly, those Acers will still get the job done for what you need. Plus, Acer comes with the standard two-year warranty in the US.[/URL]
Keep it away from dust and water, don't leave it sitting somewhere freezing or boiling hot, and stay out of direct sunlight—that’s basically it. Just wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth and dry it off immediately. Or use those specialized screen wipes or electronics cleaning sprays.

Look, there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube showing you how to crack open just about any laptop, but if you've never done this before and aren't particularly handy, don't try it yourself.

Usually, you only need to clean a laptop once you notice it starting to run hot. If it’s been running in a clean environment for two years without spending all its time sitting on a fuzzy blanket or something that kicks up fine debris, it probably doesn't need anything yet. But if you notice it getting warmer than usual or, God forbid, throttling while you're doing heavy tasks, then it's time. At that point, you have to decide whether to DIY or pay someone. If you go the DIY route, make sure you actually watch a teardown video first, get the right tools, grab some thermal paste, and good luck...

As for repair shops, any decent one should be able to handle it without an issue. I know a couple specifically because they actually stock replacement LCD panels and handle reballing/reflowing, and they advertise cheap cleaning services too:

http://www.geekgadget.com/

Of course, that assumes you're in New York City, since you didn't specify where you're located...
Best laptop under $700? in Laptops ·
If you’re prioritizing CPU power, check out that last Toshiba link with the i7 processor... Just grab some extra RAM, swap the DVD drive for an SSD caddy, and you're good to go. That Toshiba comes with a 24-month warranty, plus you can register it on their site for no matter What during the first year.
Need some advice on monitors in Laptops ·
It’s hard to say how many repairs or replacements we're actually talking about... You really need to dig into the specific warranty terms to see how long an Apple laptop has to sit in the service center before they just swap it out entirely.

Yeah, there's a ton of Apple stuff out there—mostly because those budget models have been flying off the shelves lately. When you sell that much volume, even a small failure rate looks like a massive problem. But honestly, I doubt this is a widespread disaster. Plus, all Apple products, even the cheaper ones, fall under that promotion where if they break during the first year, you get the repair handled and a refund for what you paid.

I hope you signed up for that promotion?
Best laptop under $700? in Laptops ·
You can head over to Notebookcheck to obsess over mid-range Graphics Cards performance, yet you somehow missed the massive stickied thread meant for everyone buying a laptop here. 😬

Yeah, Kimberly Gomez34 is right. I don't get why you're fixated on anything other than the 12GB of RAM, which—let's be real—is easy to upgrade on basically any laptop, and they've been dirt cheap lately anyway...

Regarding SSD-ov, first off, more and more setups come with an SSD pre-installed these days. Second, if you’re planning an upgrade, you actually have to check if the laptop even has a DVD drive you can swap out for an SSD to keep your HDD running too. Most laptops barely have an M2 slot, and almost none of them give you enough room for two drives at once...

If you had just read that main thread and answered a few basic questions—like what you're actually doing with the machine, how much CPU power you really need, whether you need dedicated graphics or if integrated is fine (based on what you said, integrated should be plenty), whether you need Windows, or if FullHD is a requirement or just a nice-to-have—you would've gotten way better advice...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example1
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example2
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example3
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example4
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example5
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http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example7
http://www.bestbuy.com/product/example8
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http://www.bestbuy.com/product/example11
Storage options for Microsoft Surface Pro in Laptops ·
SD cards have gotten dirt cheap lately, so you can snag a 64 GB card for less than $67. USB sticks are an option too, but they stick out too much and it's way too easy to accidentally snag them and break something... just a headache...

Just make sure to check if your Switch supports up to 32GB or 64GB. When you're shopping, ensure you're getting a micro SD card that's at least Class 10—or better yet, go with UHS Class 1 or Class 3 if you want the fastest speeds.

As for gaming, what Kimberly Gomez34 said is true—there aren't any strict rules, but honestly, I don't see why not. It’s basically just acting like a Windows drive...

Swapping it out might be possible, who knows? But I really don't think it's worth the hassle 😬 given the SSD price and the inevitable cost of labor... plus, you'd definitely void your warranty...
How to connect legacy hardware... in IT Support ·
Yeah, you can pick up those kinds of adapters at most tech stores; Best Buy or Micro Center should definitely have them in stock. Honestly though, putting that drive into a new build is a waste of time. It’s tiny, and it’s painfully slow—especially since you’re building a rig with an SSD where everything is supposed to be snappy. If you actually need more storage than that 120GB SSD provides, just grab a 500GB SATA drive and slide it into the case. That's a much smarter move. Plus, that drive is ancient, and hard drives don't last forever. It's probably right on the edge of failing, and you really don't want to deal with it glitching out in a brand-new setup.

From a budget standpoint, you'll end up dropping maybe $100-$50 on an adapter, then a cable, and maybe even messing around with mounting brackets just to use an old, sluggish, unreliable drive. Meanwhile, a decent new 500GB drive starts around $117...

If there's anything important on that old drive, back it up to some external storage or a thumb drive. If the machine won't even boot, just ask a buddy to help you slave the drive to their PC to pull your files off.

And don't just trash the old computer. Either give it away to someone who'll actually use it, or throw it on Facebook Marketplace to see if you can snag a few bucks. Don't expect to get rich, obviously. But hey, if you can scrape together enough to help pay for your new hard drive, it's a win. 👍
Need some advice on monitors in Laptops ·
I’ve always gotten the feeling you’re being way too soft when it comes to your laptop issues. Why? You paid good money for it, and if something isn't working right, service centers exist specifically to fix that—whether it's under warranty or not. 🤷