Posts by darkowl72

Samsung offers a 36-month warranty, so this one would be a solid choice...

The naming conventions and models... Man... 365, 355... it's enough to make your head spin. Based on the Epson specs, this model is basically just an upgraded HP Envy series, so it’s technically better. The differences are minor—speed, tray capacity, scan resolution... and obviously Wi-Fi with a built-in wireless printing routine. So yeah, the 365 / 355 is the smarter buy here...

The ink is identical. As for those clogged nozzles, just make sure you print something once a week (meaning, use all the colors) and you'll be fine. Clogs happen when you don't use the printer; if you leave it sitting idle for, say, a month, the ink dries up and bakes inside the nozzles...

The power supply should be fine; that card pulls almost no power. Double-check that you actually seated the GPU properly and verify which slot you're using. If there’s another slot available, try plugging it in there instead.

It looks like the PC isn't even detecting the card, which usually means it's dead.

Check your cables and make sure everything is snapped in tight. Sometimes the monitor cable gets loose from being moved around, or the one going into the tower won't click all the way because the side panel is getting in the way. Also, take a look at the connectors—make sure you haven't bent any pins while plugging it in.

Not a chance... All the operating parameters and specs—for the CPU, the GPU, the RAM, even the hard drives—are baked right into the BIOS. So, if the upper address limit for a drive hits 1TB and can't go any higher (which is probably the most classic hardware headache out there), everything just hits a wall because the BIOS literally doesn't know how to process anything beyond that. Same thing goes for the graphics card; maybe the clock speed, the PCIe lane count, or the VRAM capacity spiked past some hardcoded maximum, and boom—you're screwed.

1. Why do you think anyone is making fun of you? You’re wrong about that. I’m just stating facts. We aren't mocking you; we realize the average user isn't an IT expert, and we know how shady salespeople and repair shops can be when they try to upsell you on junk.

2. Don't buy anything yet. Just wait. That RAM might be fine, or it might be completely incompatible with your motherboard.

3. What GPU were you using before, and is there any other reason you're swapping it out besides video stuttering?

4. How exactly is it stuttering over the internet? Are you watching a live stream, something on YouTube, or what? Or are you playing a video from your PC over a local network to a smart TV? Does the video lag when you play it directly from your hard drive on your monitor, or does that only happen online?

5. What's your internet speed? Which provider and plan are you on? Go to speedtest.net and run a test for your download, upload, and ping.

6. I see you're running an old Radeon X1600. According to the web, drivers for it exist—not officially from AMD, but modified versions should work:

https://www.google.com/search?client...xt+driver+win7

Watch yourself when downloading so you don't accidentally grab some "driver updater," downloader, or malware bullshit. Be careful where you click. 😬 I think this link is straightforward and just gives you the raw driver download:

http://www.driverscape.com/download/...adeon-x1600-xt

And obviously, make sure you check if your version of Windows 7 is 32-bit or 64-bit.

7. Regarding memory, look on Craigslist or find a local shop or a private seller nearby who deals in used parts. Grab 2x1GB DDR2 sticks, but only if you can test them and return them if they fail. If you're looking on Craigslist, a stick shouldn't cost more than $17, ideally even less. Your board has 4 slots; if you fill them with 4x1GB, that's plenty, and there's no need to buy anything new.

8. Since your priority is changing so many things at once, spending big money on this rig doesn't make sense. Not even on the power supply, which really should be your first upgrade. Just leave it; the setup isn't demanding, so if it works, let it work...

The video issues could be caused by a whole bunch of other factors—mostly software stuff—long before you even get to the GPU. It all depends on how you're watching the video, like I asked above...

Did you disable the integrated graphics in the BIOS?

Raider is 80 Plus Silver and comes with a 60-month warranty. It’s got 4x pcie 6+2 connectors and puts out a solid 720W on the +12V rail. Plus, it's actually a bit cheaper...

What kind of parts are we working with? Let's see if there's anything worth saving here...

I used to run an HP, constantly feeding it Oracle ink from $2.75, and I was pretty happy until I clogged the nozzles myself—my own damn fault. Now I’ve switched to a Canon, but since I’m using a CISS setup, I don't really deal with individual ink bottles anymore. Honestly, it's all much of the same. If I had to nitpick, maybe the Canon feels a tiny bit more rugged and reliable, though I can't say it feels rock solid either. Probably just because it survived a messy CISS installation 😬. Print quality is basically a wash; I haven't noticed a real difference, except maybe the paper coming out of the HP felt a bit "wetter," but that might just be because that model was already three years old when I bought it.

With the HP, I loved having that built-in SD card reader. With the Canon, the Wi-Fi is nice to have, even if I never actually use it... 😬 Both machines make about the same amount of noise during scanning and printing...

Someone once tried telling me the Canon is better built because it's easier to tinker with if the nozzles clog, and that the nozzle design itself is superior. I don't really care, though. In my opinion, once this kind of gear dies, it’s not worth fixing unless you're some kind of hobbyist. It's usually cheaper to just buy a new one.

I won't say anything about IBM because I've never owned one, and based on what I've seen passing by, I can't give a real assessment.

I think you picked good models for the price point. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter which one you go with...

Ask them here:

http://www.eid.gov/en/cpp#n109

@ darkcrane77:

https://www.amazon.com/printer-ink-cartridges/b/ink-cartridges

Looks like Links or Best Buy if you ask me...

@ Anthony Kelly9:

Like I always tell everyone, go check what your local shop has in stock regarding third-party inks—basically, wherever you usually pick up your supplies. There's no point in hunting for cheap generic ink if you can't actually find it when you need it. I know for an Epson, Orink is an option and I've used them myself; they're dirt cheap and work great. As for Canon... I haven't looked into it. 🤷

It might have something to do with some critical patch or maybe some network permissions issue. There’s a ton of info about this online, but I haven't seen an official fix from Microsoft yet. Or maybe I just missed it in my quick search.

Give this a shot:

Go into Add/Remove Programs and look for Microsoft Office file validation. Close out of all your Microsoft Office apps first, then uninstall it.

If that doesn't work, try a full reinstall of Microsoft Office or Word. Sometimes that actually does the trick.

And if even that fails, you'll have to hunt for a workaround online. People have found plenty of different ways to fix this, so there should be something out there.

That "info" about the ink price seems a bit... vague to me. What kind of volume are we talking about? Did you actually check the price at the local store?

Anyway, Jeffrey Chavez6 gave you solid advice. If those ink prices end up forcing you to live on bread and water, you always have this option 😬 :

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...l+ink&_sacat=0

Just double-check compatibility first and ask the seller if they've confirmed the ink works with the L210 / L220.

Personally, I use third-party ink for my Canon CISS and they're great—zero issues. As for that Epson, nobody here has shared any real-world experience yet, and since I haven't seen it in person, I can't say much. Is it a good deal for high-volume color printing? Yes. Does it have competition for that specific workflow? Not really. Epson is basically the only one coming with a factory-installed CISS; everyone else requires some sort of aftermarket modification. That’s why it’s pricier upfront...

It’s pretty much the only inkjet worth buying if you care about cost. With any other model, you'll go broke even using compatible cartridges because the page yield is pathetic. Unless, of course, you plan on buying a standard printer and installing a CISS later.

http://www.cissprinter.com/

For example, I picked up a Canon MG5550 and ordered a CISS from eBay, which is where I get my ink too. The printer was under $167, the CISS was $67, and it runs fine... though I did have a hell of a time with the installation—I literally had to cut through the printer's plastic casing. On some other models, it's smoother; you just snap it in. You can save some money that way, but it won't be half off. Honestly, the better move is to just buy the L220 right out of the gate. When I was shopping around, they weren't even available yet...

And finally, obviously, having separate tanks or cartridges for each color is better because colors deplete at different rates, so you always end up wasting a bit... But we're talking about original cartridges there, which don't make sense for you since you'd go bankrupt with that much printing to do anyway.

I’m scrolling back through this thread to see what I actually wrote... and one thing really jumps out at me.

They’re offering an extended warranty, but they don't even provide the warranty themselves—they just outsource everything to some third-party repair shop? I'm not sure I follow how that's supposed to work...

Arrogance... It's possible I came off as arrogant, maybe a little, maybe unintentionally, even while trying to speak from experience... But that’s no excuse. I don't like being arrogant, and I'm sorry if I sounded that way—it wasn't my intention.

People come here looking for advice. We try our best to give them the most solid info possible by giving up our free time and sharing what we know. I never said you were Canadian (and there's nothing wrong with that; Canadians are fine as long as they aren't clogging up the border, and I have a soft spot for Canadian women 😬), and I didn't say the iPhon was bad, which you can see if you actually bother to read my post carefully.

However, I can't just leave your post standing where you're praising the iPhon as this amazing thing and spreading false claims about returns and warranties. Leaving it would imply I agree with you—and I don't. I also mentioned that every product has its target audience, and I'm sure the iPhon will find its niche, but I doubt there will be many buyers given the shipping costs, the measly 2-3 day return window, and then having to rely on the manufacturer's warranty after that... Those terms basically fly in the face of European Union consumer laws.

I won't get into pricing, but there are specific laws regarding the movement of goods within the European Union, including quotas. You saw this recently with Amazon (I think!), where they had killer prices because they were cutting taxes, but once they hit their legal limit, the prices spiked right back up by the tax amount. It worked while it lasted. But you have to follow the law. And honestly, the iPhon didn't even manage to pull a stunt like that to attract customers...

If you're buying in bulk, you can ask any retailer for a volume discount; some will jump at the chance. Or, you could try negotiating with more flexible companies that handle their own procurement instead of going through massive wholesalers like Best Buy or Staples... I know there are others out there, I just can't recall them right now, so help me out, please... 😬 Getting older definitely takes its toll...

Now we get to the main point...

Everything you just laid out doesn't actually offer any better terms than if you'd just ordered from any other reputable online retailer. Plus, you're still paying for shipping, whereas plenty of other shops offer free delivery.

You're also getting the warranty info wrong. Under European Union laws, the seller is the one responsible for guaranteeing the goods they sell for a period of 24 months. And as far as I know, Canada is in the European Union, right?

Also, that 2-3 day return window they claim isn't how it works. Legally, you have a 14-day window to return items bought online if they don't meet specs, allowing you to ask for a replacement or a full refund. That said, a lot of these places are allergic to actually giving money back, so we can revisit that once a few customers actually post that they succeeded in getting their cash back...

Here’s why you’re likely stalking these forums:

1. You're on their payroll.
2. You're young and haven't dealt with much online shopping or consumer rights yet, so this all looks great to you.
3. You got one of those generic emails shops send out to bait people into advertising them in exchange for some little perks.

I'm guessing it's the last one. There's been a massive flood of these schemes lately because it's way cheaper than paying for actual ads. I hang around enough of these sites to see it constantly—getting offers every few days to post some "well-meaning" shoutout for a shop or a review for a product I haven't even touched...

I'm not saying the shop is necessarily bad; someone will definitely find something they like there, whether it's a specific item or a price point. But we've been around long enough and have enough experience with this stuff to be extremely skeptical of "recommendations" for things you haven't even seen. If you actually bought something from them, fine—post photos of the gear, the order, and the receipt to show your experience. But if you didn't... sorry...

Trust has to be earned.

Whether you’re being insulted or not, it’s hard to find any info that hasn't already been dragged through the mud on the Bug forums or PC Gamer... You want a third opinion? 😬I haven't heard a single soul from the forums actually buying it, otherwise people would be talking about it...

Change your resolution. You've set it to something the game can't actually handle. Try sticking to standard resolutions—check what your monitor's native resolution is and just use that. If you aren't sure, just try 800x600, 1680x1050, or 1920x1080 if your screen supports it.

No new problems here. This is basically what this place is for—helping people who aren't exactly tech wizards. With that kind of budget, you can definitely build a decent rig. You just have to wait for someone who actually knows their stuff to chime in. I could probably help out with some individual parts, but I’m not an expert when it comes to GPUs, and that’s the most important part of any build like this.

As for the monitor, don't sweat it. There aren't really those "bad" monitors anymore that wreck your eyes. Even the cheap ones on the market today are perfectly fine for long sessions...

edit:

Well, damn... while I was typing, the experts already showed up. 👍

I used to take my toner cartridges to get refilled over by the local tech shops near the old vocational school and those little spots right across from the Walmart. Honestly, I have no clue how yours is performing now, but your best bet is to just head down there and talk to the pros who actually know their stuff—they really do, I've seen it myself 😬. Just ask them about those three specific models: which one is easiest to refill, which one is the cheapest, and what kind of headaches people usually run into with them. Go with whatever they tell you...