Dangerous or not, it’s just not right... What happens if you start the game without the charger plugged in?
Look, regardless of how bad it seems, there's a power issue here. You should report the fault and take it to an authorized service center ASAP (it's still under warranty, right?). It's better to fix it while the damage is small. This buzzing coming from both the laptop and the charger sounds like the problem could escalate, and if you're unlucky enough to fry something like the motherboard, you'll be waiting forever for parts to arrive...
swifttinker40, you and your buddies really shouldn't be messing around with computer hardware. You're just going to break something, and then we'll all be dealing with the fallout.
Maybe in a few years, once you finally realize that Google is actually your best friend, like I said before...
This guy thinks he’s some kind of genius because he knows how to execute a command without having the slightest clue why he's doing it... He's just talking nonsense. He probably only left a few gigs for his system drive, so now he's panicking over space and deleting everything in sight just to feel productive...
Just leave it alone. We're talking about such a tiny amount of space that it honestly doesn't matter. And don't you think there would be some documentation out there if this was actually something worth messing with...
Tell him he'd actually free up a lot more room if he just cleared out his Temp folder... 👍
1. Any leftover antivirus junk—get rid of it. 2. Google Drive—delete if you don't actually use it. 3. Skype—trash it if it's just sitting there. 4. Dropbox—wipe it if you aren't using it. 5. igfxtray—that's from your graphics card, leave it alone. 6. igfxpers—graphics card stuff, leave it be. 7. Panda Security—only keep it if you're running Panda AV. 8. Sound card drivers—leave those alone. 9. Java updates—you can probably ditch these.
If you're clueless about what something is, just Google it.
When you're doing a fresh install of Windows, just head over to the Gigabyte site and grab all the drivers and software your motherboard actually needs:
Honestly, it’s even easier if you just let their utility handle it. It'll scan your setup, figure out what's missing, and automate the whole installation process for you:
Nah, you can only fit two 1GB sticks max, and even then, they have to be those old DDR400 modules:
SUPPORTED RAM:
Max Size: 2 GB Technology: DDR SDRAM Bus Clock: 266 MHz Speed: PC2700
Honestly, I have no clue where you'd even track those down. You might still stumble upon some used 256MB sticks, but anything larger than 512MB or hitting the 1GB mark? Forget it. That stuff is basically ancient relics at this point...
Check what the router shows for connected devices. If you don't see the DAP listed, you'll need to trigger a scan for new devices on the router settings—look for "scan for devices" or something similar. Once it actually finds the DAP, you have to authorize it to join the network and make sure it stays connected...
Look, your DAP isn't even connected to the network, so no amount of "installation" or "programming" is going to fix anything. You need to get into the new router's setup and actually allow the DAP to register on the network. It looks like someone—probably your brother—messed with the settings on the last router too, and you didn't even notice...
If you scroll down a bit, you'll see a diagram of the back of your new drive showing two rows of pins with their numbering. Based on the diagram, you need to bridge pins 5 and 6—and only those two—to get the drive to work with your setup.
Old hardware, crappy power supply... I can't even say what I'm thinking without sounding like a jerk. 😬
I'm guessing you can get into the BIOS if you only have the old drive plugged in.
Check the back of that old drive. It should have two rows of pins and a sticker showing the jumper settings. Look at that diagram and tell me how the jumpers are set right now.
Please just list the make and model of both the old drive and the new one.
This motherboard only supports those early SATA drives—the 1.5 Gb/s ones. There's a chance the new drive just isn't compatible, or maybe your power supply is too weak to handle the load.
Not sure if this is even fixable, but we'll give it a shot...
Master/slave settings don't exist anymore. Most SATA drives don't even have switches or jumpers; only those early SATA3 series had jumpers to let you run them under the SATA1 protocol. Modern SATA drives should auto-configure regardless of which port they're plugged into.
With mistypanther98, the issue is either the BIOS, the motherboard, or the power supply.
To actually diagnose anything here, I need the exact model of the motherboard, its version if there is one, and the specific model of the power supply.
You'll need to read the power supply's name and specs off the sticker. If there's a table on there, check how many +12V rails it has and what the amperage (A) is for each.
The motherboard model name should be printed in large letters near the center, somewhere between the connectors—copy that down exactly. If there’s a version number like Ver 1.1, include that too. You might also find the version printed along the edge near the expansion slots on the back of the board.
You can grab the motherboard name and BIOS version using CPU-Z. It's freeware; just download it, run it, and it'll spit out all the info for you. 😬
Once you get me those details, we can actually figure out where this is breaking down.
See, on older boards that have both ATA (PATA, IDE) and SATA connectors, it's possible that booting only works from specific ports. It's also possible you need a BIOS update to recognize a newer drive, or maybe the power supply has too much junk attached to a single rail, causing an overload. One single drive shouldn't make a massive difference in power draw, but with old machines and aging power supplies, you never really know until you test it. During startup, the system runs an InRush protocol that pulls more current from the PSU than it will ever need during normal operation—it's like a built-in surge protector for the PSU's workload. So, it's entirely possible the PSU lacks the juice, or the system isn't recognizing the Hard Disk and is misinterpreting its power demands.
Besides moving the drives to different motherboard connectors, it's possible an older drive needs a jumper to tell it it's not alone in the machine... plus a million other things we can talk about once you post the data I asked for.