Why don't you just try a clean Windows reinstall or a repair install? Honestly, with Windows 7—and pretty much every version before it—you run into that one-in-a-thousand scenario where things just "go wrong" for absolutely no reason. Why should Windows 8 be any different?
That’s not quite how it works... There aren't really "better" or "worse" processors in a vacuum. Every single one is good for something specific. It all comes down to value—finding the chip that hits your specific needs at the lowest possible price point based on what you actually do with your PC.
You can't just compare Intel and AMD as whole brands because they use completely different architectures. You compare two specific processors to decide which one fits your setup better or offers more bang for your buck.
As for graphics, integrated graphics moved from motherboards directly into the processors; some CPUs have them, others don't. They can be toggled off, too—like in a laptop, where the system switches to integrated graphics to save power and stretch the battery life.
With certain processors that have integrated graphics, there's a way to combine them with a discrete GPU to try and boost performance, but honestly, don't count on it. For that to even work, the software or game has to be specifically coded to utilize both simultaneously, which is pretty rare...
For crying out loud, Kimberly Gomez34, I put that link right there in the very first reply... But of course, some people just don't bother reading the thread, so thanks for nothing, I guess...
There are still a few left in OS, hanging on by a thread... 🤷 I mean, if someone actually thinks they have the cash and believes it’s worth their while—that’s their business.
Yeah, I should've mentioned—and it actually caught me off guard too—that you can't run these Wi-Fi printers on both USB and Wi-Fi at the same time. So if you're dealing with laptops plus a desktop and a local network, you're looking at a bit of a headache.
If that’s your setup—like having a desktop or a stationary laptop in an office connected to a Wi-Fi router (which is pretty much the standard nowadays)—you're better off just getting a printer with an Ethernet port. As long as you have an open port on your router, just plug it in and set it up as a network printer. That way, anyone on the network can print, whether they're hardwired or on Wi-Fi.
In that case, look specifically for a model with a network port; it opens up way more options, including color lasers like these:
That one actually comes with a Wi-Fi option too, but I honestly don't know if both controllers work simultaneously. You'd have to ask.
Here’s what the original toner costs:
Which means your cost per 3,500 A4 pages is roughly $133 and for 2,500 color pages (CMY), it's about $200. Third-party toners are actually decent and even cheaper:
The cost per page is better than those cheap inkjet "spitters," and you won't have to panic about clogged nozzles or dried-up ink. Plus, you get an ADF.😬
1 x Intel Core i7 8300 3.3GHz, 16MB, 125W, AM3+ FD8300WMHK 1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB), NVIDIA GeForce, PC1600 MHz, Entertainment series 1 x MSI 970A-G43, AMD 970 + SB950, S. AM3+, 6xSATA RAID, 4xDDR3 800/ 1 x Fortron 500W Power Supply, Hyper, PPA5005003, 12cm fan 1 x LG GH24NS DVD burner, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R 1 x SCYTHE Katana 4 SCKTN-4000, socket 754/940/939/AM2/AM2+/AM3+/FM1 1 x XFX R9-270A, R9-270A-CDFC, Double Dissipation edition 925 m boost 1 x 1 x Zalman Z3 PLUS mid tower case. 192(W)x465(H)x430(D)mm. MB standard 1 x LG 24MP57VQ-P 24" LED, IPS, 1920x1080, 5ms 1 x Zalman ZM-K400G gaming keyboard, 12 programmable keys, backlit 1 x Genius X-G500 gaming mouse, macro, 2000dpi, 6 buttons 1 x Genius GX-Control gaming mouse pad 1 x Kingston SSD 240GB V300, 2.5", SATA 3, MLC
$2322
Just shoot an email like this to a few retailers (Best Buy, AT&T, Micro Center, Newegg, etc.) and wait for them to put together something similar. See what they can get for the best price and how low they'll go on a pre-built rig including shipping to your place. For Windows, you should go straight through Microsoft Corporation; I'm pretty sure they'll give you the best deal on a volume license...
I linked that table too, but honestly, it looks like a total glitch to me. There's definitely some inconsistency there. You've got the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus and the Optimus sitting right next to each other, yet the EVO is somehow listed as superior? Based on most sources, the Plus should be winning here, which actually makes sense given the price point.
Here's a direct comparison between those two—the Plus and the EVO—where things actually make sense and show the Plus is better:
I mean, why wouldn't a prodigy need it? That’s just how retail works... How old is the kid anyway? It's about the library of games he'll be running; you have to pick a GPU that actually keeps up. And let's face it, you need the whole setup—monitor, keyboard, mouse, decent speakers... Plus, everyone uses credit cards or financing these days, it's standard practice.
Anyway, congrats to the kid. It's a hell of a surprise. 😁
The whole point is how much cooling you actually need. Are we talking everyday use or pushing an overclock? What are you running right now, and what’s the actual motivation for swapping it out?
If you just grab some mid-tier cooler, you might drop your temps by a couple of degrees, which is basically throwing money down the drain for zero real gain. Yeah, the T4 isn't as strong as the 212 EVO. Honestly, even the 212 EVO isn't anything special; their best bet is really the 212 PRO.
This one weighs less than 500g and moves just under 70 cfm (cubic feet per minute). It's... modest, to say the least.
If you want something with actual teeth, the entry-level high-performance stuff starts a bit over $100. We're talking heavy hitters—coolers weighing a pound or more that can push well over 100 cfm, like the Scythe Ninja 3 or the Scythe Asura. Those are considered "budget" performance coolers because they usually start at $167 and go up from there.
You could do decent work with a cooler under $100 using a Cooler Master Hyper 212, which isn't the top-tier Model X in their lineup, but it's a massive step up from a stock cooler. In my opinion, it's worth the spend if it's around $83.
Obviously, you have to watch your clearance inside the case and make sure you aren't blocking your RAM slots, but we can worry about that once you actually pick something out.
It’s probably just like Anthony said. There’s a slim chance the drive survived depending on how hard it took the hit. If the heads stayed parked in their bays and didn't crash, you might be able to get it running—maybe a tiny solder joint on the PCB or the connector just snapped. But honestly, it's all guesswork at this point. If you're feeling brave, crack it open and try connecting it directly to your PC. If those files are actually life-or-death, then reach out here:
I read what was written... Look, they don't exactly pack these kinds of sticks with cutting-edge tech or high-end components, especially since it's just USB 2.0. It isn't going to be lightning fast; it’ll perform pretty much like any cheap thumb drive you picked up at a drugstore a few years ago.
So, how fast are we actually talking? If you're just saving documents and photos, you won't notice much. But if you try to record large movies, you're going to be waiting a while. 😬 You can't have your cake and eat it too...
You can never be 100% sure, but it looks fine to me. The seller seems legit—solid feedback, good reviews, and they actually run an established shop with a massive inventory. You really have to watch out for those accounts that only have one or two items listed; people with actual storefronts rarely pull scams, even if everything is technically rigged to look perfect...
Some process called mom.exe from the Catalyst driver keeps acting up. Why? Who knows. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does, you either have to reinstall Catalyst or just kill the damn thing in Task Manager.
If you decide to reinstall Catalyst, make sure you uninstall the old version first, otherwise things will get messy.