Posts by Joshua Garcia3

Thomas Chase64 said:The Simpsons Treehouse of Horror V

Just download season 6; it includes everything you need, including the subtitles for that specific episode. 🙂

http://titlovi.com/titlovi/titlovi.a...ik=&stranica=9

Jason Martinez3 said:The issue is that whenever I reboot, it just loops right back to that "Windows is finalizing" screen.

Maybe try running the installation again, but this time use a different customized version of Win7, like darkheron39 suggested. 🙂

Steven Reed4 said:http://www.manhattan-products.com/hr...chanical-mouse

So, I found them listed here, though I suppose I have no clue which distributor actually gets them into local stores.

You could always ask them. 🙂

Chloe Adams6 said:Just to clarify things for all you "geniuses" out there.

So, I downloaded about ten different subtitle files from various sites and tested them all. None of them work. It looks like they're all just the exact same crappy translation being passed around.
The sync is fine for maybe two-thirds of the movie, and then it just disappears. It's gone. There's nothing left to adjust, so I'm stuck.

I'm talking about the 1989 movie 'The War of the Roses,' starring Michael Douglas and Annette Bening.
Go ahead and try downloading the movie and finding a decent subtitle yourself... then let me know how it goes.

Here's a little something for you, genius. Check your PM. 🙂

Did you download and test out this one? Over here, they have it available in plenty of other languages too, but maybe you could try this version in Canadian instead. 🙂

Bradley Smith88 said:The power supply is an EVGA 450W

Looking at the system requirements for something like Call of Duty... I’m starting to wonder if my CPU is just outdated and becoming a total bottleneck (Intel Core i5-2500K, 2.66GHz)? They recommend a quad-core. I guess at this price point, I might as well just grab an Xbox 360. 🙂 (new GPU + new CPU)

I really don't want to drop a ton of cash on a graphics card only to have the game stuttering because the processor can't keep up..

There's a difference between recommended settings for maxed-out details and the bare minimum configuration. If you're better than the minimum, you'll be able to play, maybe just with lower settings. It is what it is—you get what you pay for, I suppose.🙂

Minimum requirements for Call of Duty

* OS: Windows XP or Windows 10 * Processor
* Processor: Core i5 @ 2.0GHz
* RAM: 2GB
* Graphic card: DirectX 12 compatible Nvidia or AMD card.
* Graphics card memory: 512 MB
* Hard drive: 15 GB for disc version or 10 GB for digital version

Douglas Garcia52 said:I mean, if it’s only nine minutes, you don't exactly have much to do. I guess it's hardly worth making a thing out of it. Honestly, all you really need is Google Translate and Word, or maybe some other basic text editor. I guess that's pretty much it.

He doesn't have English subtitles, just the audio track, though if you switch to the English version, it's available on YouTube. 🙄

Kenneth Sullivan4 said:Right now I'm running an NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX, which is pretty much ancient history at this point. I'm honestly not sure if it can even handle Call of Duty: Battlefield on a High-end PC setup.
I'd really love to upgrade to an NVIDIA GeForce
I'm willing to drop up to $667 because I want something that actually lasts a while after I buy it,
maybe for at least 2 years. I don't know much about graphics cards, so I was hoping the folks on this forum could point me in the right direction.

What power supply model and what's the wattage? 🙂

vividbison47 said:Is there any way to check what kind of power supply I have without actually opening up the rig?

Maybe check your receipt if you bought the PSU separately. If it came pre-built in a case, I guess you might be able to guess based on the model of the tower itself.🙂

Here’s the answer to that other question you had about hooking up an external hard drive to a plasma TV. 😢

http://www.hdtelevizija.com/forum/vi...hp?f=27&t=1133

Check this one out; it gets the job done reasonably well. 🙂

http://www.nabava.net/trazilica.php?...X-M2D1GD5%2FOC

Kate Doyle16 said:I don't really get how this GTX 460 is supposedly better when it has both a lower core clock and a lower memory clock? Also, does the GTX 460 actually support DirectX 11?

The specs say it does. 🙂

http://www.nvidia.com/object/product...tx-460-us.html

If you were actually happy with what you already had, I guess you might as well just stick with the same brand and grab a larger model. Regarding the TV, though—which specific model are we talking about? 🙂

It’s not quite the same thing; whatever you're using to install Windows actually needs to be bootable. 🙂

You can just use a USB drive. 🙂

Chloe Garcia22 said:Look, I might be a bit slow here, but could you drop a link to the thread?
I guess I’m more interested in what those abbreviations actually represent in plain English—the kind of thing you'd explain to a layman—because looking them up on Wikipedia or Google doesn't really clear anything up for me.

Reddit

I can do it; there shouldn't be any issues, I guess. 🙂

And you could probably go with Western Digital. 🙂

Taylor Brown said:I've tried pretty much every combination imaginable and nothing seems to be working quite right... here's a picture for you. Maybe let me know how I should plug these in? On my speakers, I've got the pink and green jacks, and then there's the black one from the line-in... I'm just not sure which goes where.

It really ought to look like this. I guess you might want to check if you have that Realtek utility to manage your audio settings. 🙂

driftingangler11 said:I'm running into something pretty similar on my desktop—it has the standard three 3.5mm jacks (line in, line out, mic). When I plug in headphones, everything works fine. But when I plug in powered speakers that are already turned on, the damn computer acts like nothing is even plugged in at all. Now I’m using a 2-in-1 splitter, and even then, it’s hit or miss whether it detects anything. Sometimes I have to reboot just to get it to notice the connection...

Is there some kind of trick I can tell him so the system stops acting smart when it's being stupid, and just actually sends audio to that jack regardless of detection?

Thanks in advance 😁

Maybe try reinstalling the audio drivers. 🙂