Posts by Joshua Garcia3

Donna Martin86 said:I’ve set things up.
1. I have Windows 7 Home Premium. It's probably overkill for my needs, I guess. The installation went through fine, so that's okay. You did catch me a bit off guard when you mentioned the 60-day trial, since they're already prompting me to buy it (wasn't it included when I bought the laptop?). I also set a password, just to feel fancy—though I'll probably delete that later.
2. I downloaded Google Chrome as my browser (is that how you say it?).
3. Using some help from CNN, I managed to get my email working in WLM on the laptop—I pulled the address from my old Microsoft Outlook setup. I even got it configured so messages hit the same address on both my old desktop and the laptop. The server holds onto them for 7 days, so once I boot up the laptop and open WLM, everything syncs right up.
4. As far as I can tell, am I good to go? The only thing left is getting an MSO suite (Word, Excel, etc.). How do I download that? Is there some kind of old free version floating around somewhere?
5. I'm sure I missed something. What could it be? Any suggestions on what else I should do? 😕

Just grab the free LibreOffice and call it a day. 🙂

James Fisher11 said:Finally, they actually fixed the website. About time. 👍

Let us know when that stuff you ordered shows up so we can figure out if this webshop is actually legit.

So, this guy just walked right into their store over in the Zitnjak area (the old Prvomajski location), swiped his card at Diners, grabbed all the components, and just walked out with them in a bag. 😉

Joshua Garcia3 said:A buddy of mine is upgrading his rig; he wants to pick up a new graphics card now.

- motherboard: Asus P5VDC-TVM
- processor: P4 3 GHz
- memory: DDR2 2 GB
- power supply: Cooler Master Elita Power Plus 500W

The PC would be used for standard tasks, but also for gaming within its hardware limits.
Budget is roughly around $267.

What graphics card would be the most logical (maximum) choice for this existing setup? 🙂

Edit: it has a PCI-E slot, and he's looking at Phoenix.

stormywolf39 said:Like I said, there's no point getting 1GB of VRAM; even 512MB DDR5 is more than enough for a build like this. Otherwise, you're just throwing money away.

stormywolf39 said: Seriously, at least $67 don't throw 🤷 it
out the window.

Just an update: my friend actually listened and ended up buying the graphics card from IQ-Zagria. He didn't go with the Cooler Master Elita Power Plus 500W after all, but picked up an OCZ SteealthXStream 2, 500W instead.

Check out what's sitting at the bottom of this link. 🙂

stormywolf39 said:I checked out the inventory over at Phoenix Computers, specifically looking through their hardware listings. It seems like they have a decent selection available right now. Well, at least that's what I'll say. $67 Into the wind. 🤷

Joshua Garcia3 said:I'll let him know. I guess if he finds one somewhere else with 512 MB of RAM, it might just cut it. Maybe. $67 Cheaper. 👍

That’s actually a pretty decent price difference. 😉

I found this listing online for a Sapphire ATI Radeon HD5450 Graphics Card. It’s got two DisplayPorts on it. Just thought I'd drop it here in case anyone was looking for something similar.

stormywolf39 said:http://www.phoenix-computers.com/inde...362&kateg=0738 I mean, at least $67 it's worth 🤷
a shot.

Fine, I'll tell him that if he picks up a version with 512 MB of RAM somewhere else, he can probably get it for $67 cheaper. 👍

stormywolf39 said:I mean, there’s really no point in getting 1GB of RAM. Even 512MB of GDDR5 is more than enough for a build like this; anything else is just throwing money down the drain.

And I guess you know what you're doing at Micro Center, they probably have their reasons. If you're so sure, why don't you just pick something out from Micro Center's inventory then? 🙂

stormywolf39 said:The main issue is that the CPU probably won't be able to feed that graphics card enough data to actually hit its full potential.

I guess the best move here would be to hunt down some used hardware—maybe a Core 2 Duo or an Athlon X2+ paired with a matching used motherboard—and then just grab something like a 4670, 5670, or 4770.

True, though he could potentially throw a Pentium D into his current board. I suspect he won't bother investing in a new motherboard right now, even a used one, since he'll likely jump to a completely new build in about two years anyway.
I'll pass along your point about the bottleneck and suggest he give that Sapphire 5670 a shot. 😉

http://www.phoenix-computers.com/index...361&kateg=0738

stormywolf39 said:top-tier contribution to this thread 🙄

If you're looking at 5670 or 6670 cards, I guess if the resolution isn't hitting full HD, those 512MB versions should be enough... though, honestly, that card might still be overkill for a setup like this, but whatever.

How much of a bottleneck is a 3 GHz Pentium 4 going to be for the graphics card? 🙂

A buddy of mine is looking to beef up his rig; he’s hunting for a new GPU right about now,

- motherboard: Asus P5VDC-TVM
- processor: P4 3 GHz
- memory: 2 GB DDR2
- power supply: COOLER MASTER Elite Power Plus 500W

The PC would be used for general tasks, but also for gaming within its hardware limits, I guess.
Budget is roughly around $267.

What kind of graphics card would be the Optimum (maximum) choice for this current setup? 🙂

Edit: It uses a PCI-E slot, and I'll probably pick it up at Best Buy.

Taylor Brown said:thanks, I already have a cable to connect it... like this one but my adapter just fell apart; the part inside the rubber housing popped out, don't ask how 😁
so I just need an adapter that is female on one side and male on the other (with the pins so I can plug it directly into that graphics card)

Well, okay, I guess you didn't quite catch what I meant.

First, you take the graphics card, then you plug one of the male ends of the S-video cable I suggested into it. Then, you plug the other end of that S-video cable into an adapter (a female S-video port) that I found over at Optimum. Finally, on the other side of the adapter—the female RCA port—you plug in that RCA cable you already have. 🙂
Is that any clearer now? 😁

Betty Ruiz35 said:processor - 2.6GHz
memory - 2GB
the movie is 1.35GB (so a standard 4.7GB DVD)
I'm converting to HD Video, and I want clean, high quality (that's why I'm using HD Video)
p.s. - the movie is about 2 hours long, but the conversion takes twice as long, 4 hours... driving me crazy

any help?!

P4 2.6GHz or Dual Core,
So you're trying to upscale a 1.35GB AVI file into an HD Video format,
I guess I should mention that expecting high-quality HD material from a basic old AVI file is probably asking too much. 🙄
A converter is just a converter; it isn't some kind of magician.

Betty Ruiz35 said:Is there any way to "speed up" how long it takes to mux subtitles into a movie using Any Video Converter? It’s taking forever... at least 3 hours per file. Is there a trick to make it faster, or does it just depend on the specific movie? Because it seems to happen with everything I try.

It really boils down to a few different things:

- Your computer's specs (mostly the CPU and RAM)
- The size of the file you're working with (like a 700MB CD vs. a 4.3GB DVD)
- The resolution and quality settings you've picked for the output
- And a few other variables, I guess.
- There isn't exactly a magic wand here; it all comes down to your hardware and how you have the software configured. 🙂

Betty Ruiz35 said:I downloaded the movie and BS Player immediately loaded a subtitle that works for about 70% of the film, but then it starts either lagging behind or getting ahead—by a minute or two at a time. I tried fixing it using TimeMachine and some subtitle editing tools, but nothing seems to work. And apparently, this one is supposedly "good."

If the timing is drifting like that—where it’s fine for 70% and then fluctuates between being early or late—it isn't actually good. That sounds pretty broken to me. You should probably just grab a different version where the delay is constant, either always early or always late. Those are actually fixable with something like TimeMachine or SubRip. 🙂
Just download a different one from one of the links in the post above yours.

Taylor Brown said:Does anyone know where I can pick this up? That little adapter... I need it for an old graphics card.
[image]

If you check out this link, you'll find a similar adapter—it's female S-video to female RCA. Since you're looking for a male S-video, you'd probably also need a cable or maybe just a cable that's male S-video to male S-video. 🙂

After this mess, I hope you start keeping your receipts for life. Honestly, just take the monitor to a repair shop and let them deal with it; maybe if the retailer recognizes you, they'll actually feel generous enough to fix it under warranty. Obviously, you aren't going to mention that you were the one who broke it—you just tell them it stopped working. 😢

If Microsoft decides to push an update, they probably have their reasons; I doubt they’re just doing it for kicks. If you're running a newer setup—which is likely if you went through the trouble of installing 64-bit Wins—then there shouldn't be much to worry about when it comes to upgrading. 🙂

Betty Ruiz35 said:Thanks, but it isn't helping much.
Every time I click on WLM, it just shows me an error message and won't let me go any further... and it just keeps happening like that... 🤷🤷

Have you checked there 🙂?

John said:
Thanks a million! 🙏

As long as you're happy, I guess. 👍

Joshua Diaz10 said:Quick question:
Why is it that when I hit "eject" on my USB drive through File Explorer, the little LED light on the thumb drive stays lit? Even though the notification pops up in the corner saying it's safe to remove?

On my old machine running Windows XP SP3, the light actually goes out once I request a safe removal. But on my other PC running Windows 7, the light just keeps glowing. I pull the drive anyway and I haven't run into any issues with the data. 🙂