https://support.google.com/chromecas.../3213084?hl=en From what I can see, Google actually suggests turning AP Isolation off rather than enabling it 🤷
If I were you, I'd just log into the router and switch the Wi-Fi channel to something less crowded—most things seem to stay on channel 1 by default, I guess. Usually, the higher channels like 9, 10, or 11 are a bit quieter
Alright, I put the image you sent into a Word doc: http://www75.zippyshare.com/v/38357940/file.html
On my office printer, I actually managed to get it to print—even though it threw an error saying I was outside the margins. On the physical paper, I ended up with about 5 mm margins on the top, bottom, and right, and 20 mm on the left.
Just to reiterate—it really comes down to the specific printer. There isn't some universal rule for how close to the edge a machine can print. For some printers, a 5 mm margin might be too small and you might not be able to get the layout you're looking for on every single device.
Looking at the document on my screen, I’d estimate there’s a 5 mm margin on all sides except the left, which looks to be about 20 mm—correct me if I'm wrong on that.
When I sent it straight to the printer without tweaking any settings, here’s what happened: top, right, and bottom margins came out at 12 mm left margin was 24 mm
The issue seems to be this: View on imgur By default, the document prints at 95% scale—which is what that red box is pointing out—because if I try to force it to 100%, this happens: View on imgur It basically assumes the printer can handle printing the frame right up to the edge of the paper, but not all printers can actually do that. It feels like a mismatch in the paper size or dimensions.
My question is: what exactly are you aiming for? If you need that frame to sit flush against the edge of the page, check my first post—you’ll probably need a printer with a borderless printing option. But, if you need the frame to stay at a specific distance from the edge, just send over the original Word doc used to make the PDF. I can fix it for you, assuming you tell me exactly how far from the edge you want it.
If there's any way you can grab or borrow a GPU before you buy a new one, you should—it’d be a smart move. I guess if the integrated graphics finally gave out, there's no telling what kind of shape the rest of the motherboard is actually in, or if the issue is just limited to the integrated chip itself.
Here's the setup: Windows 7 64-bit, less than a year old, and Device Manager says all drivers are up to date.
Ryzen 7 5800X Spire Sigor IV ASRock FM2 A75 DGS Transcend 4GB 1600 MHz Chicony HP 400W
A few months back, I started getting random blue screens, but they were rare so I didn't think much of it... 😁 In the last couple of weeks, things have gone downhill. Today it happened 4 times—3 of them within a single hour. It seems totally random (happens while idling, surfing, gaming, etc.). Temps look fine. One thing I noticed is that sometimes when I boot up, one of the rear USB ports doesn't work (I know because my Wi-Fi dongle is plugged in there lol). If I restart, it works normally.
Also, the PC occasionally freezes and the screen fills with colored lines. My only option is a hard reboot, so I don't get a crash report since I'm doing it manually.
The dumps point to a hardware issue, so I'm wondering if there's any way to pinpoint exactly what's failing. Problem is, I don't have any spare parts to swap out the motherboard or anything else.
All the dumps are identical, so here's the latest:
on Oracle 6/15/2014 19:12:55 GMT your computer crashed crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\061514-18189-01.dmp This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x4ADB3C) Bugcheck code: 0x124 (0x0, 0xFFFFFA80056044F8, 0x0, 0x0) Error: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe product: Microsoft company: Microsoft Corporation description: NT kernel & system Bug check description: This bug check indicates that a fatal hardware error has occurred. This bug check uses the error data that is provided by the Windows hardware error architecture (WHEA). This is likely to be caused by a hardware problem problem. This problem might be caused by a thermal issue. The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.
It sounds like you're having issues with the video card—probably some VRAM problems. Since you can't really test if it's just that specific card without swapping it out, you might have to try a different one to be sure.
Edit: I noticed your motherboard has integrated graphics—are you using those or a dedicated card? Either way, my suggestion stays the same: pop the card into the PCIe slot and see how the machine behaves.
I'm guessing you're looking to get some full-bleed printing done here—you know, edge-to-edge. That feature is usually called "borderless" printing, though I guess not every printer actually supports it. Plus, every single model has its own specific limits on how close to the edge it can actually go.
My suggestion—maybe find a local print shop or somewhere that handles school projects—and just check if they have a printer capable of borderless printing.
P.S. if you could drop a link to the PDF, we could probably see exactly what we're dealing with.
Jack Ward5 said:It’s just about knowing who we're dealing with—and look, don't jump straight to accusing people of being offensive, because if that's your first thought, it's not ours. Besides, why shouldn't I want to know where certain people coming from old America come from when they're posting nonsense? Otherwise, it just makes this American forum look like it's obsessed with those old-school nostalgics.
So, my first thought was that there would be insults, and then YOU immediately start nitpicking my wording 🙄. And honestly, what does it matter if some nostalgic person is from Canada, America, Mexico, Canada, Mexico, Mexico, or Cameroon? How does that actually help a decent discussion?
Just staying on topic here—we’d probably get way more done by having a more stable server and checking what kind of ads are running than by adding all these new "features."😛
Jack Ward5 said:If you’re already doing an upgrade—then maybe at least add something useful, like a little flag next to everyone's name. It shouldn't be much trouble, I guess—they can see it from the IP address. At least then we'd know who we're talking to when things get heated, especially during political debates.
Uhm, what for? So people can more easily throw around insults like "liberal" or "conservative"?
One option would be to create a disk image using software like: http://www.acronis.com/en-us/personal/disk-manager/
These kinds of programs work by making an exact copy of the drive and saving it as a file—an image, basically. You can save that image file wherever you want—maybe on a thumb drive if you feel like it—and then load it back later, though you usually need the same utility that created the image to restore it.
The biggest headache here is that we're talking about Windows 98, so finding software that actually runs under that operating system might be tricky. Or, maybe you could just pop the Windows 98 drive into a different machine and handle everything from there.
As a workaround, I’d suggest something else entirely: just grab a second Hard Drive. You could keep Windows 98 on the first Hard Drive, fully installed and configured exactly how you need it with the original setup. Then, on the second Hard Drive, you can do whatever you want. That way, you just plug in Hard Drive 1 or Hard Drive 2 whenever you need them.
Reinstalling Windows 98 isn't exactly rocket science, but it's a massive waste of time and energy—especially when you have to hunt down drivers that are Windows 98 only.
Still, I guess I should ask—why do you even need to reinstall Windows 98? Is it just because of a legal license thing, or is there some other reason? What kind of hardware setup are we looking at here? And what OS would you be running on top of Windows 98?
Lisa Myers said:Someone asked... yeah, it's an .exe. I didn't actually open the attachment—my software flagged it anyway, saying the signature wasn't official or something like that—but I can see it’s definitely an .exe.
Well, I asked, and it's 100% a virus. I dealt with something pretty similar at my office once—someone was posing as the IRS and sending out fake notices or legal threats. The worst part is how easily people fall for it and just click away without even checking the file extension.
So, from what I gather, you're working with a standard antenna—either indoor or outdoor—and a traditional digital TV receiver with a SCART connection.
If you decide to go with a USB digital tuner, you wouldn't actually need your current receiver or antenna at all. Now, if you’re looking to stick with the antenna you already have (via the coaxial input), you'll definitely need a specific type of USB tuner—because most of them just come with those tiny little antennas included. You'll get the viewing software along with the tuner, and then you can watch all the usual channels you'd normally catch on a standard setup—like ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX, and so on.
Since you're working with a laptop, I'd suggest picking up a USB DBV-T tuner—something along these lines:
That way, you'll get all the necessary drivers and software included. Personally, I’d probably go with a tuner from either CNN or Fox News, though those tend to run a bit pricier—maybe around 300-$133.