Nancy Parker6 said:The cold, hard truth is that my M4 Carbine motherboard temp spiked by 40 DEGREES, the SSD hit 40, the processor is at 40... and I am literally doing NOTHING!
soooooooo? where is the actual issue here? 🤷 😵
1. Summer is right around the corner, so isn't it just totally normal for everything to start running hotter?
2. You probably just have a massive dust bunny situation going on. Honestly, I just gave my GPU and everything else a good cleaning after a few months of buildup, and man, the temperatures dropped like crazy—my graphics card went down by like 15°C, and the rest of my parts saw a nice little dip too. My hard drive usually sits around 96°F, but if it climbs up toward 107°F or even 113°F, it's definitely feeling the heat.
As long as everything is actually working fine, you really shouldn't sweat it too much.
But look—if those temperatures are already driving you crazy, why not just pull that card out of its PCIe slot, give it a good blast of compressed air to clear out the dust, and see if that fixes things? If you've already done all that and the temps are still "high," then you can probably just blame the summer heat.
or maybe you accidentally bought some shady Bitcoin miner that's running itself in the background while your GPU just cooks for no reason lol? :P just kidding, mostly, but hey, might be worth a quick check!
I had zero issues getting it installed, seriously. Do you actually have a Microsoft account set up? Because if you didn't know, you can totally just log into Windows without one, plus everything else too. So, just try right-clicking in the bottom left corner, then head over to settings>pc settings, and under the accounts section there should be an option to switch to a local account... I'm not 100% sure on the exact wording since I just use a standard account like what we used back in Windows 7 or XP, nothing involving all that online stuff Microsoft keeps pushing on us.
Nicholas Miller6 said:It’s mostly just because they have names that aren't super common, you know?
🤣 Nah, man, it's actually because of those privacy settings on your Facebook profile where you can literally just toggle whether or not you want to show up in search engine results...
electrichawk4 said:I mean, why didn't anyone bother telling me that beforehand??? Just when I finally figured out the solution, they went and shut down Pirate Bay on me...
I totally missed that at first, so that's why. It’s such a bummer about TPB, but hey, thank god there are plenty of solid alternatives out there, and honestly, I bet even better ones will pop up soon enough
Are you even sure you actually synced those bookmarks of yours...? Because it looks like everything synced up to a certain point, but clearly, it didn't pick up any of your more recent ones...
Timothy Kim60 said:No way you'd pick that one for that kind of cash, seriously, the 260 is way more powerful
The absolute bare minimum worth buying right now is the R7 260 (non x) If you can swing it within your budget, honestly just grab the R7 265 instead...
You should be able to flip your current card easily for maybe $300$117, especially if you still have the warranty intact
Man, I don't even know what's going on with my warranty, I think I might still have it, but who knows how much longer it actually lasts... since I built this rig a while back, I haven't even checked how much coverage is left on the GPU, I'm pretty sure it's been about a year... look, I'm happy with what I've got, it's just that GTA V is coming out 👏
Looking at the price for that 265, it looks like I'd need to scrape together an extra hundred bucks, and I'm really not sure if that's happening... 😁 (I'm currently out of work, dealing with a broken leg, and I can't exactly go out and find a job right now 😢 ) I'm thinking I'll just aim for that $267 260 model and maybe add some 4GB of RAM once spring rolls around. God willing, the money will show up... right now, all I can think about is the graphics card 🙂
Hey, look, just grab the manual for your motherboard—if you don't have the physical copy lying around, just pull it up online—and check what that specific beep code actually means. Like, is it a single "beep," a quick "beep-beep," or just one long, continuous "beeeeeeeep"? Honestly, I don't get why everyone is overthinking this so much, because shouldn't the manual clearly state exactly what every single beep code signifies? Just go check that first, and it'll make everything else way easier instead of us all just guessing blindly in the dark here. (Wait, hold on, am I totally misreading the situation—are you saying there's no beep at all???????) Anyway, just to jump off what was said above... maybe see if the manual mentions what it means if there's no beep when you power it up, or conversely, what it means when a beep actually triggers during startup. That's really your first step. People always start messing around with the BIOS settings, but let's be real, a computer doesn't necessarily have to make any sound at all when it boots up.
So, since Christmas is right around the corner and all that, I’m thinking about grabbing a new GPU and offloading my old one.
Basically, I’ve got an AMD Radeon HD 6670 1GB (gddr5) hanging around... what kind of cash could I realistically get for it, maybe like $300, $117?
And if I shell out a bit more on top of that, I could jump up to something like an R7... (assuming there's actually a 2GB ddr5 version out there, right?) crimsonstag84, Timothy Kim60, what do you guys think? Is it even worth it to go through the trouble of getting another card with just 1GB of VRAM, even if the chip itself is supposedly way faster? I was eyeing something like this... The rest of my rig is: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme4+ Motherboard AMD A106790k 4.3GHz CPU 4GB DDR3 1333Mhz (which is plenty for now) Seagate HDD 1 TB Western Digital HDD 250 GB Seagate HDD 1 TB Western Digital HDD 250 GB
Jesse Wilson17 said:Sure, you can pull it off, but honestly, does anyone actually know how it's going to perform? You might end up having to go in and kill off Aero, shut down a million background services, and strip away every single little graphical effect just to turn Windows 7 back into something that looks like a classic OS.
I mean, seriously, what's even the point of doing all that work?...........😒
Hmmmm... so you're telling me it actually works when you're in Safe Mode? >, does everything run totally fine for you once you're in there? It’s possible that things seem okay in Safe Mode just because the drivers haven't loaded yet, so the components aren't really "talking" to each other properly... but as soon as those drivers are loaded, the whole thing falls apart immediately...
Once you get Windows installed, why don't you try installing the drivers one by one and testing everything as you go? Just be patient with it...
I dealt with this exact same headache on my old desktop back in the day, and it happened to me every single time... it turned out that basic hardware incompatibility was the culprit, and you wouldn't even feel the friction until the components finally recognized each other (which basically means as soon as the drivers are installed)
Bradley Baker56 said:Can I actually install Windows 7 on my laptop, or is it just going to be a total disaster? Will this thing even be able to handle it? View on imgur
Honestly, there's no way... you're seriously lacking enough RAM and that processor is just too weak, so why even bother? Windows 7 is such a heavy OS and you aren't going to get anything out of it with those specs, so you might as well just stick with Windows XP since everything actually runs fine on it.
I went through something almost identical on my old rig... most of the time it boilsolves down to components not being 100% compatible with each other, or even if they are, maybe some frequency, latency, or voltage setting just isn't dialed in quite right... That kind of freezing is what we call a "loop"—and I’m guessing your audio starts glitching out too (that weird 😬 sound), right? Honestly, my gut tells me it's the RAM, like the processor just can't keep up with processing all the data...
Anyway, why don't you try borrowing some RAM from a buddy and see if that fixes things? I'm really curious to see if it works... because this definitely feels like a hardware issue to me. If it turns out the RAM isn't the culprit, then your motherboard is pretty much toast.
ruggedfalcon62 said:Look, I’ve been telling you this whole time—Ubuntu works fine if you just format the drive through the Windows 7 installer, but if you wipe the whole thing completely clean, it won't work... The logic is that the formatting process built into the Windows 7 setup doesn't actually scrub everything off the hard drive. I know, I know, it sounds crazy and hard to wrap your head around, but it’s the honest truth!....
wtf 🤔 There's a huge difference between a quick format and a full format. A quick format basically just tricks the system into thinking the disk is empty, whereas a full format actually "cleans" the drive—which is exactly why a full format takes so much longer to finish.
Whether you're trying to install Linux on a freshly formatted drive or one that's only had a "quick" format, it honestly doesn't matter unless you're dealing with actual hardware issues—in which case, you should definitely go with a full format. Otherwise, it's really just about security; once you do a full format, it becomes nearly impossible to recover any old files.
mistyhawk29 said:I'm finally ready to say goodbye to Windows XP and I really want to make the jump over to Windows 7, so does anyone know where I can actually find a copy of it online? (Looking for the 32-bit version)
Yeah, honestly, you’re way better off just grabbing a totally clean version... I mean, you can always get it activated later using a loader or some toolkit anyway, right?
Thomas Roberts51 said:54 GB? I can't even wrap my head around whether he actually gave it away or sold it, but seriously, what is the deal with 54 GB...
There was some kind of promotion going on, some sort of scheme or whatever 😉
Ronald Myers81 said:Hey there! I'm looking for some solid advice on picking up a new 1TB internal hard drive, and honestly, I just need it for pure storage purposes! My biggest worry is reliability—I really need something dependable that isn't going to quit on me in the middle of the night, you know? Looking at reviews online, the Seagate BarraCuda caught my eye because it doesn't cost nearly as much as a BlackRock drive, even if it is just a tiny bit slower! Any suggestions would be awesome!
Best Buy - Toshiba 1TB... $142 free shipping to your door... can't get any better than that... The green models are a little pricier, but they're basically the same thing... the only real difference is they spin a bit slower, so they're slightly quieter while they work.
I’m honestly starting to think we're looking at a hardware issue here? which week are we even talking about if this whole pirate crew decides to pick 😛
I don't really touch that stuff. ☕ I mean, it’s super handy if you're a college student or someone constantly on the go who needs to grab a file right this second no matter where they end up, but it's just not my thing.