Posts by Roger Gray8

William Morris13 said:Basically, everyone tells you that you should stick to the same manufacturer if you want to nail those latency numbers and maybe try some overclocking later on. But honestly, you can totally mix and match brands, and you'll still get Dual-channel (just make sure you plug them into the right slots!)—the catch is that if the speeds or latencies don't match, the faster stick will just throttle down to match the slower one... but hey, it'll work perfectly fine.

So what you're saying is that latency is the real deal here, right? I think I'm gonna grab the same HyperX sticks from that link I posted earlier, though I might just check if my local Best Buy has the exact same ones in stock since I'm picking up a whole rig there soon, so I'll head over this week and see.

Anyway, I know that if the MHz differs, the faster one slows down to match the slower one, but does the same thing happen with latency? Like, if I find two sticks with the exact same latency, I'll just grab those and call it a day, right? Also, by the way, how do I actually verify if I've got Dual-channel running once I finally pop the sticks in?

I honestly just stick to using the Radeon software... I'll grab the latest version straight from the AMD website, run the installer, and call it a day. It feels like the setup process just handles wiping out the old version automatically for me. Everything runs totally smooth on my 6670 GDDR5 without any leftover junk hanging around from previous installs.

But seriously, maybe try completely nuking those old drivers first before you attempt to lay down the new ones...

ps: there’s really no point in chasing the newest drivers for an older card unless they specifically optimized them for whatever game you're currently grinding through..

So, I'm thinking about picking up another stick of RAM once my paycheck hits this week.

Right now, I have Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM KHX1866C9D3/4G but whenever I browse through online retailers, all I can find is stuff like HX316C10FW/4 and a bunch of other random versions, but basically nothing that matches my exact model...

My motherboard is rated at 1600MHz, so here's what I'm wondering: can I just grab one of those other models and still run everything in Dual-channel mode, or am I strictly required to get the exact same model number? I mean, if that "C" in the name refers to latency, shouldn't it be fine as long as the specs align (like that C9D3 part)? Since 1866 is just the MHz, wouldn't those initial letters not really matter much in the grand scheme of things?

Actually, if anyone out there happens to have this specific stick lying around, please shoot me a DM!

edit: This seems to be the closest thing I could track down http://www.newegg.com/DDR3-4GB--1x4G...569993432.aspx

It says C3D9 in the description... so, can someone who actually knows their stuff tell me which one I should go for?

George Sanders37 said:You can always tweak your Wi-Fi settings—things like the SSID, the password, encryption levels, and so on. I just wanted to point out that if it's enabled, you can connect to and set up the router wirelessly... you don't necessarily need an Ethernet cable for that.

Otherwise, like others here have mentioned, getting the Wi-Fi actually active usually requires either a physical connection or a call to your ISP. But honestly, most modern routers that support wireless sharing come with the AP already configured and turned on by default.

If I had interpreted the original post that way, I probably wouldn't have bothered replying at all.

But that first part isn't even an option if the Wi-Fi is disabled, which is exactly what we're dealing with here, right? And the second bit is basically answering what the OP was asking. ☕

Gary Ortiz4 said:Is it actually possible to set up Wi-Fi without needing a computer involved? I’m looking to run everything strictly off wireless devices—think smartphones, tablets, and so on. I seem to recall doing this on my current router by navigating to 192.168.1.1 and toggling a setting in the configuration menu.

George Sanders37 said:Looking at the author's post, I can't really tell if his Wi-Fi is actually turned on or off.

Besides—judging by what was posted on the web—I think we're mostly dealing with a theoretical situation here.

Are you blind or what? Seriously, how can you not see that?

George Sanders37 said:If the device allows it, you can just hop on the Wi-Fi and access the settings using that 192.168.x.x IP address—basically, you'd just connect via your phone or a tablet, I guess.

But, you know, the wireless configuration setting actually has to be enabled on the device itself first.

Are you kidding me...🤦 HOW IS HE SUPPOSED TO CONNECT TO THE WI-FI IF IT'S TURNED OFF IN THE FIRST PLACE?!
😵
Seriously, he either needs to call up his ISP and beg them to enable it remotely, or just borrow a laptop from a neighbor for ten minutes and call it a day. ☕

Gary Ortiz4 said:Thanks, so using a laptop would make it work.

Yeah, exactly! You just plug in via Ethernet, head over to that IP address you mentioned—or whatever the router's address is, but it's usually that one—and then you just flip on the Wi-Fi and you're good to go...

rowdybadger18 said:Why wouldn't that be possible? No router is going to demand anything from a connected Ethernet cable. 😁

But that’s not even what they’re asking—they want to know how to actually get the thing up and running! As far as I know, you can't really bypass the wired connection for the initial setup, so maybe just give your ISP a call and see if they can remote into it for you? Or, honestly, just borrow a laptop from a neighbor for ten minutes and get it over with.

Like, you could always just use Handbrake, but honestly, why bother? YouTube is going to run its own compression on your file anyway, so you’re basically just losing quality twice over... I mean, have you checked if Bandicam actually lets you record at a slightly lower quality setting directly? I haven't messed around with those specific settings myself, so I can't say for sure, but it might be worth a look.
PS: Let’s be real, any kind of compression always results in some loss of quality... the real question is just how much you're actually going to lose, right? It really depends on which codec you're jumping from to, what your bitrate looks like, and all those other little tweaks you can mess with inside the software itself...

Kimberly Barnes8 said:Hey there
So, my laptop keeps defaulting to the HTML5 player on YouTube, and I can't get it to go into Netflix Full Screen mode properly.
I actually went ahead and installed Adobe Flash Player since that works perfectly for full screen on my desktop setup, but I'm stuck. I have no clue how to force the laptop to just use Flash by default. Does anyone know the workaround? What's the move here?
thanks

Hmm, honestly, HTML5 works perfectly fine for me and I haven't even touched Flash in ages.

Maybe try heading over to youtube.com/html5 and just toggle that HTML5 setting off to see if that fixes things for you?

VLC Media Player
a-it handles all the subtitles automatically
b-it plays basically anything you throw at it...
c-you can use shortcuts for everything too... like, if you want to move subtitles, just hit right-shift plus the left or right arrows, or use right-shift with the up and down arrows to adjust their position, and if the font is too small, just hit ctrl plus plus or minus to resize them
d-I’m honestly not even sure if there's a way to manually sync them within the player, because I’ve never really had to deal with that—plus, why would you even download a rip that isn't synced properly in the first place? But hey, you definitely get those handy shortcuts for playback speed and all that other stuff...
e and f - it’s got all those features built right in, including quick keys for playback speed, fast-forwarding, rewinding, jumping to a specific timestamp, or skipping ahead/back ten seconds. (I think you can even customize how many seconds it jumps per click, but I don't feel like digging through the settings right now to confirm.)
g) - now, that last thing you asked for is a pretty big ask for just a media player... I don't quite see why you wouldn't just use a separate app for that, but you can actually grab screenshots of "what you see on screen" or capture them at "original size" using external tools

Anyway, if you ask me, it's hands-down the best player out there, and it doesn't even hog your system resources too much. Plus, if you aren't a fan of the default look, there are tons of different skins you can download to make it look exactly how you want. Anyway, hope that helps you out!

I honestly don't know if this is even doable—maybe someone who actually knows their stuff can weigh in here—but one potential workaround might be to just pop that SIM card straight into a phone and then use the device to run a mobile hotspot instead.

Laura Hernandez25 said:So I’ve got this Clear system thing, and while it’s great at spotting errors, it doesn't actually go in and fix them, right?
Since my keyboard is totally busted right now, I can't even get online to check if there's some other version I could just download instead.
.
And honestly, I'm pretty clueless about all this tech stuff...

Well, just turn on the On-Screen Keyboard in Windows—it's tucked away somewhere under the Accessibility settings...

Then, just grab Malwarebytes and AdwCleaner from the BleepingComputer site to get things started...

Laura Hernandez25 said:Thanks so much to everyone for all the great advice, seriously, I’m going to try everything you guys suggested to see if I can make this work!
Maybe something will actually work this time... but I’m pretty sure there's a virus lurking somewhere because this thing is throwing about 400 different errors at me!😢

Just give that thing a good cleaning first, then hit me up so we can finally take a look at it!

Jeremy Fowler45 said:I noticed this when I got home last night.
My daughter and husband were using the computer all day.
Now I'm not sure if it's just the mouse, because I tried hitting F6 + Fn but nothing happened...
Then I realized the keyboard isn't responding either, almost like it's totally powered down?
The laptop is a General Electric Satellite..
How can I figure out if the issue is the mouse or the keyboard, and what's the fix?

Hmm, I've been digging around online and apparently people deal with this stuff all the time.
Maybe try putting it into hibernation—not just a full shut down, mind you—and then wake it back up to see if everything starts working again?

Also, there's a chance you might have picked up some kind of virus or malware. You should definitely run a system scan, and maybe pay close attention to that i8042prt.sys keyboard driver

Check this out too:
Go to Start/Control Panel/Keyboard/Hardware Tab/Properties/Power Management/ and make sure the box that says "Allow computer to turn off this device to save power" isn't checked.

Another thing you could try is holding down the right Shift key for about 10 seconds to see if that does anything... that's supposed to toggle "Filter Keys"—whatever that actually is.

Just go poke around in the settings... I don't know.. 🤔
http://forums.generalelectric.com/t5/Keyboar...ng/td-p/160306

crimsonharbor313 said:The thing is, I don't even see that setting in my BIOS
I was reading online that some laptops just won't let you change it at all
It shows up like this

total available graphics memory 2508MB
dedicated video memory 1280MB
shared system memory 1228MB

Are you absolutely sure about that? Honestly, man, I don't know, just hang in there and stay positive!

crimsonharbor313 said:Can anyone give me a hand with this?
How much would be the sweet spot to assign to it?
Honestly, what’s really getting under my skin is how everything was running perfectly fine just a month or two ago, so now I'm stuck wondering if it's a hardware thing or if the OS is just acting up...

Well, you should probably dive into the BIOS. Just tap the "Delete" key right when you're booting up and look for the setting that shows how much Microsoft memory is being allocated to the graphics card. If you've got a dedicated GPU, just set it to 32MB and call it a day.

William Richardson12 said:You could also just use a fan at room temperature to blow the heat out of the case past the power supply and call it a day.

But seriously, what are you supposed to do if you don't have a fan running at room temp? 😬

William Richardson12 said:Alright, sweet 👍

This is absolutely wild 😁

Hey guys, I finally sorted everything out! Huge shoutout to William Richardson12 for the assist.

All I did was jump into the command prompt and run sfc /scannow, and then my buddy actually tried to launch the game by accident and—get this—it worked! Hahaha 🙂