Posts by Kimberly Gomez34

They're just making noise at this point, but they don't really matter—it's all just empty talk.

Standard practice is to check the reviews to see what the entire rig pulls under a full load.
For instance, a GTX 760 SLI setup according to ers hits a peak of 449 watts, and their CPU was an Intel Core i7 3960X (130W).With overclocked versions of the GPU, they hit 478W in FurMark (though likely less during actual gaming), paired with an i7-3770K @ 4.0 GHz. Essentially, you just need to ensure the unit can handle that much on the 12V rail while leaving some breathing room.

And obviously, you want a high-quality power supply—look for reputable brands, various 80+ certifications, read the reviews, and so on.
In short, an SLI setup could probably run on a 550W unit, so a 650W would be more than enough.



But honestly, instead of messing with SLI, you're better off just getting one single, more powerful card.

Hard drives don't really matter when you're looking at power consumption; the CPU and GPU are the heavy hitters here by a long shot. You might only need to worry about beefing up your PSU if you're running a high-end SLI setup.

Lol, it’s gotta run better when it’s pulling in almost half the power...
Make sure you account for the GPU, the drive, and the RAM too.

And honestly, his CPU is actually pretty decent—it's right up there with those newer Pentium models.

You should probably grab some more RAM so you can hit at least 4GB... once you do that, you can finally install a 64-bit OS.
No need to swap out your power supply; that 3870x2 pulls significantly more juice than those other cards you mentioned. Plus, the price for the 260x over at Best Buy is a steal right now.
As for the hard drive, just pick up a new one if 80GB isn't cutting it for you.

vividangler77 said:Look, I'm no tech expert or anything, but if I were doing this, I'd probably just order everything online. Usually, spending up to $1.25 is fine by me, but honestly, right now I've got zero clue where to even start shopping... all I really care about is speed. My PC basically just exists to binge series and movies...

1. Avoid those pre-built desktop bundles. They are almost always a mess of mismatched parts, and you end up paying a massive premium compared to picking out the components yourself.

2. Honestly, you don't need a $3,500 machine for basic home use like watching movies, doing office work, or browsing the web. You can build something perfectly tailored to your needs. For example:

G1820
ASRock H81M-HDS
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB
LG DVDRW 24 x GH24NS95
Chicony HPA-400W
Zalman ZM-T4
Samsung 120 GB 840 evo Basic

$875Free assembly and shipping if needed.

Basically, you just toss each part into your digital shopping cart and check out through the website (though you can usually handle it via email, phone, or by visiting a local storefront). Regarding delivery speed, a buddy of mine had his gear arrive in just two days—unless you happen to get caught in a weekend delay...

The setup above is perfect for you. If you want to play some heavy-duty games, let me know (simple web games won't be an issue at all). In day-to-day tasks, you'll barely notice a difference between an Intel Celeron G1610 and an i5 costing $100, but I included an SSD (solid-state drive) because you will definitely feel that speed boost—faster boot times, apps opening instantly, etc. You should install Windows and your main programs on the SSD, then dump all those huge movie and music files onto the secondary hard drive (the 1TB one) so you don't clog up the 120GB SSD unnecessarily.

fadedorca66 said:I'm on board with this suggestion. With an integrated GPU, you might actually be able to play a few games, though I guess my only tip would be to grab 2GB x 2 RAM sticks, since dual channel probably makes better use of the graphics.

If you're planning to go down that route, you really ought to grab a motherboard with four RAM slots.
Check out this deep dive into the ASRock FM2A88M EXTREME4 + 2 x motherboard. It’s a solid look at the specs and what you can expect from this hardware setup.

+ $33

Here is my suggestion including a graphics card.

Adata DDR3 4GB 1600MHz RAM (AD3U1600C2G11-R)
The MSI H61M-P20_ (G3) motherboard features a Socket 1155 design and supports DDR3 memory. It comes equipped with SATA II connectivity, PS/2 ports, USB 2.0, VGA, DVI, LAN, and includes both audio Line-In and standard Audio outputs.
Intel Celeron G1610 processor.
NVIDIA GeForce GTX650 1GB GDDR5 128-bit, POV-VGA-650-A2-1024

Total: $1,512.05 (plus potential shipping costs) $13)

If you need to download it. I’ve been looking into this specific cooler setup, and I wanted to share some thoughts on it. It’s a solid option if you're trying to keep things running smoothly without breaking the bank. Think of it like upgrading from a standard sedan to something with a much more efficient cooling system—it makes a world of difference in how the whole machine breathes. If you're building around an AMD Trinity A8-Series x4 5600 or even working with an AMD A8 x4 5600 k, having reliable thermal management is non-negotiable. You don't want your components throttling right when you need them most. This kit provides exactly that kind of stability. It's straightforward, effective, and fits right into a standard build. For anyone putting together a budget-friendly rig using an ASRock FM2A55M-HD or similar board, this is a smart, dependable move.

Total cost: $1,425.96

So, basically, it's a decent enough dual-core for just messing around. $82Honestly, if you're looking at that quad-core setup paired with a decent graphics card down the road, it’s definitely going to be the smarter long-term investment.

Gregory Hayes87 said:He went overboard with the application, and now everything is back to square one.
Thanks again, everyone; I'm officially out of thermal paste for this round.

😂
Just apply a tiny bead or a thin layer click. If you use too much, you're just asking for thermal throttling issues.

By the way, swapping out your paste won't perform any miracles if your ambient temperatures are already within the normal range.

67°C is a solid temperature click
I honestly thought it would be hitting or even exceeding 100, but this isn't bad at all. It’s definitely worth swapping out the thermal paste on such an old GPU that runs this hot (especially if you've never actually done it before)

Don't even bother turning it on until you swap out that thermal paste and seat the cooler properly, otherwise, you’re going to fry it. You might have shifted the heatsink slightly so it isn't making solid contact, which is why it's overheating.
When your FPS takes a massive dive like that, it means the chip is thermal throttling.

neondrifter26 said:Thanks for the reply. I'm just wondering what I should do about the power supply, since both configurations list the "MS PLUTOS case without a PSU."
One more thing—if I decided to hold off for another 2 or 3 months, would I be able to "score" some better deals on certain components, or do you think the market won't change much from where it stands right now?

It’s nothing major. We might see those 250x and 265 ATI/AMD cards hit the market, and maybe the 260x will drop slightly in price (in the USA they're already around $110-$120, but the question is what the pricing will look like here in the States; we might only be talking about a few extra bucks if we're lucky.)

James Castillo8 said:http://www.ebay.com/usr/antonio981 Scammer or what?

Most likely.

If they refuse to meet up in person, you already know where this is headed. Even if they are willing to meet, there's a good chance they're just some guy scavenging broken cards to try his luck at refurbishing them.

They probably aren't even out there because everyone's too busy chasing the Bitcoin rush

According to Nabavka.net, they don't have it
Is it absolutely necessary to go with the 🙂

This specific model is probably available locally too

Unless the client has already checked out sites like PriceGrabber.😬

http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=...world+LPK19-30

By the way, regarding this link, finding actual specs for Linkworld online is nearly impossible. And we all know why: they claim 12V - 23A—which is basically a "600" w 🙏 🤣
rating.

What specific power supply are you running right now? Check the label inside the case for the exact model name.

An EVGA 550 W would be more than enough for that setup. If you decide to go that route, just make sure you pick a model that comes with a solid 5-year warranty here in the States.

It's modular (meaning you can ditch any extra cables) EVGA SuperNOVA

At the end of the day, all that matters is that the unit is high quality and provides sufficient amperage on the 12V rail.

A Crossfire Radeon HD 5770 paired with a beastly processor (130W plus overclocking) pulls about 370W under full load. click

wanderingviper7 said:1 x Gigabyte 970A-DS3P, AM3+, AMD 970 SB950, 4x DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866
1 x AMD FX-Series X6 6300 Processor 3.5GHz, 14MB, 95W, AM3+, FD6300WMHK
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/
1 x Sapphire Radeon R7 260 x OC 1GB GDDR5, 1GB GDDR5 128bit, 28nm
1 x WD 1TB HDD, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mj
1 x XFX Core edition 80 + 450 w pas - EasyRail Technology 1 x Fractal design Core 1000 Black
1 x Fractal Design Core 1000 Black, 2 x 3.5" internal bays
1 x Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, 2011, 1366/1156/775/AM3/ 626g, 13-32dB

$1308

That motherboard isn't going to fit in that case.
The Core 1000 is mATX, but that board is ATX.
Also, the Hyper 212 won't fit in the Core 1000 either.

By the way, the Core 1000 isn't the best value when you consider the ZAL-ZM-T1 plus costs the same amount.

FM2 processors are just too weak to handle two R9 280 x cards without hitting a major bottleneck.
Using the motherboard as your main deciding factor isn't exactly a rock-solid argument for buying. At the end of the day, it’s tucked away inside the Computer Case and you aren't staring at it every single day anyway. Also, I wouldn't suggest CrossFire—you'd be better off grabbing one beefier card like a 280x, though that really depends on what you're looking for...

If you're dead set on CrossFire/SLI, go with the Gigabyte 990 XA-UD3 paired with an AMD FX-8320. That's pretty much your most budget-friendly way to make it happen.

Michael King7 said:I've updated the question 😉

Motherboards priced at $100 are a total waste for the FM2 platform. You don't need to blow your budget there. If you actually have some extra cash to spare, you're better off jumping over to Intel or an AMD AM3+ setup instead.

By the way, this has nothing to do with graphics cards 🤷

possible 🤣

Generally speaking, nothing has actually changed; they’ve just rebranded things. We'll likely see the 265 sitting where the 7850 used to be, probably priced around $1100-$1200. If it ends up being cheaper than that, it'll be a solid deal.

In all honesty, the only truly "new" stuff in this generation is the high-end cards. One silver lining in this transition is that the 7970 GHz—instead of the usual three separate models—is now available for $2300-$800 under the name 280x. This move actually forced Nvidia to drop the price of the GTX 770 by about a hundred bucks.

It seems to me that crypto miners (Bitcoin miners and such) are messing with the market regarding the 280x, which is pretty scarce right now. It might not be as big an issue here in the States as it is overseas, which is where our suppliers pull their stock from. I didn't realize it had become such a massive trend 🤷. Because of that, prices aren't even dropping since everything that hits the shelves gets snapped up immediately due to high demand. We’re going to see the same thing happen with the R9 280 (which will likely make the GTX 760 a bad value by comparison).

EDIT

750Ti
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/gra...50-ti-review/1
http://www.techspot.com/review/783-g...radeon-r7-265/
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ew,3750-7.html
http://www.slashgear.com/nvidia-gefo...view-18317248/
http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/di...-750-ti-review
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/N...ce_GTX_750_Ti/

On average, it's more powerful than a 260x and slightly weaker than a GTX 650Ti Boost (though sometimes it beats it), but it only pulls 60w TDP and has great overclocking potential. I think those high-end Nvidia Maxwell cards are going to be absolutely massive, provided the pricing isn't ridiculous...

Prices will probably adjust soon once the current stock clears out, but the R9 270/270x will likely end up being the best buy for your average everyday user, since you'll have to pay significantly more to step up to anything better...