R7 265 (the successor to the HD7850) http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-rade...-265_135733/10 http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ew,3748-9.html
According to Tom's Hardware, this card is roughly 8% faster than the 7850 on average.
The GeForce GTX 980 should serve as the logical replacement for the HD 7950—expect crypto miners to absolutely strip the shelves bare the moment these hit the market. There’s been a massive gap in the lineup between the 270x and 280x ever since the 7950 was discontinued.
Think of the R7 250x as the direct substitute for the GeForce GT 730. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ew,3747-3.html
It is high time NVIDIA released something competitive in the budget segment, like a GeForce GTX 750 Ti.
Is this some kind of retail store or just a private seller?
Look, if you're getting a motherboard, a CPU, and 8GB of DDR2 RAM all for $100, he’s not exactly doing you any favors—especially if he didn't claim it came in the original packaging. Those RAM sticks alone are worth at least $400-$200
Tyler Wood5 said:The photo shows my current home setup. To be honest, I'm not even entirely sure which motherboard I have; I just went by the 970a-ud3 label on the box. Since I don't know much about these components, there's a real chance the seller pulled a fast one on me, especially if the model you mentioned is actually the inferior version. 😢
Jesus😲 So, what did you end up paying for that motherboard? There is a massive performance gap between those two models.
There isn't much else you can try. Like I mentioned, your first move should be swapping out the thermal paste, and if that doesn't do the trick, you might need to look into an aftermarket cooler like—though I suspect you'll void the warranty if you pull the stock heatsink off (I know that happens with single-fan NVIDIA GeForce GTX 7870 cards).
Wait, doesn't that case come with its own fan controller? They should just dial back the RPMs using that or some other software. Honestly, if the noise is such a headache, they might as well just ditch the fans altogether. The case itself is solid—really great value for the money.
Hitting 100°C is definitely not okay. If it’s staying that hot for extended periods, something is clearly wrong—most likely, your thermal paste has finally given up the ghost and can't conduct heat like it used to.
Those extra 5 or 6 degrees really matter if the repair shop isn't cutting you any corners. They probably tested it on an open test bench where the ambient temperature was much lower than yours. (By the way, is your PC case sitting right next to a heater or something?)
Also, 87°C sounds way too high for a non-overclocked GPU with just dual fans. Based on reviews of the XFX core edition, it hits a max of 72°C, while the black edition goes up to 77°C—and that's under a full gaming load, not just some light benchmark.
northernraven2 said:My PC is plugged into a power strip along with my TV, and whenever I flip the light switch in the living room, this happens.
Does it only happen then?
If so, just grab another power strip and rearrange your setup so you don't have everything crowded into one single outlet.😬
Also, screen flickering can be caused by the video cable connecting the monitor to your graphics card, or even electromagnetic interference from speakers if they are crammed too close to or right behind the monitor.
Does yours have one fan or two? To be honest, XFX isn't exactly known for top-tier cooling. It’s possible their models use a more ventilated case than yours does. Are you running a micro ATX setup where everything is packed in tight? Also, have you tried adjusting the fan speeds? Generally speaking, higher-end cards tend to run a bit warmer—around 70-80°C—but hitting 90°C+ is definitely pushing it. You might want to try adding a case fan, swapping out the thermal paste for a high-quality brand, or as a final resort, just grabbing an aftermarket cooler.
northernraven2 said:I need some advice on finding the best graphics card possible for under $133. I'm looking for the absolute best bang-for-your-buck option for gaming since my current setup isn't cutting it anymore. My power supply is an OCZ 500W, the GPU is a GeForce GT 640, and here is the rest of my build...
What exactly do you mean by "not cutting it"? Is the card actually failing, or are you just unhappy with the frame rates? Just so you know, you won't find anything better than a GeForce GT 640 for $133, even if you look at the used market. A 7750 would perform about the same, maybe even slightly worse
Scott Edwards62 said:It’s easier to find decent 15.6" models, but 17.3" ones are tough; I haven't seen anything better in local shops or even on Craigslist. Most of them just come with integrated graphics or maybe 4GB of RAM, though some might have a slightly larger HDD. Basically, would this laptop go for $1000 (maybe more), or is it more realistic to aim for around $2,800 or... I don't have a ballpark figure for what I could sell the laptop for.
I'm not sure if it's worth that much. I can't give you an exact valuation for your specific machine, but for roughly $2,700, you could pick up a 17.3" laptop featuring a basic Intel Ivy Bridge Celeron, which sits right in the same tier as your CPU, if not slightly better.
Your graphics card is also entry-level, so don't expect any heavy gaming; it's only marginally stronger than something like Intel's integrated HD 3000 graphics. Granted, yours has 6GB of RAM, but you can grab an extra 2GB for about $50, and while newer laptops often come with 500-1000GB hard drives, that doesn't really drive the resale price up significantly.
Sure, your laptop was a higher-end model back in its day compared to what's out now, and it might be a high-quality build, but you should definitely look to sell it for under $2,500.
An EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti can run in SLI with an NVIDIA GTX 750 Ti since they are essentially just rebranded or overclocked versions of the same architecture. Similarly, you could pair a 280x with a 7970 in SLI. Personally, though, I wouldn't bother with SLI. You’d also definitely need a beefier power supply.
EDIT
Here's a test for you: http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-rade...testing_126124
It’s nothing groundbreaking, especially at that price point. That mATX unit doesn't offer anything special; based on what I saw in the video, it looks like just another generic Chinese import. Honestly, the Zalman is probably the best buy for your money here in the States. It comes better equipped—things like dust filters, USB 3.0 support, and decent cable management potential—plus it likely uses higher-quality materials and better build standardshttp://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=835']click[/URL].
The only catch is that the power supply mounts at the bottom, and since the case is pretty tall, you might run into some headaches if you're using a PSU with short cables. Just pick whichever one you prefer... though keep in mind that DigiKey isn't exactly known for lightning-fast shipping; you might end up waiting anywhere from a few weeks to two months
Furthermore, let's be realistic: you don't actually need 16GB for casual home use or even standard gaming. More importantly, relying solely on integrated graphics means you won't be able to run any modern AAA titles at all—you'll be stuck playing Flash games or small indie projects.
If an ATX board fits, then a Micro-ATX board will fit too—I haven't come across any exceptions to that rule. It’s entirely possible to have a "mid-tower" case that simply doesn't support the larger ATX standard. I couldn't track down the official spec sheet, but here is proof that it works (this guy is using a Micro-ATX motherboard in that build) . By the way, you can actually find some pretty sleek Micro-ATX cases for that budget, like the Zalman T4.
If he's planning on printing a ton of stuff and doesn't actually need color, I'd suggest he looks into getting a laser printer instead of those cartridge-based models. You can find them for around $200 .
Think about it: if someone is sitting on a high-end AMD AM2+ CPU and really needs a solid motherboard to keep that rig running without shelling out for an entirely new build, your offer could be quite compelling. But honestly, if you price things too high, you might just end up waiting forever, who knows...
You could have had much cleaner cable management if you’d gone with the CX500. Honestly, PM power supplies are more practical for non-modular setups; with a modular one, you've at least got fewer cables to juggle in the first place...
crimsonstag84 replied 😬 I think the machine is alright, but he can keep looking if he wants. Honestly, who’s going to buy this when you realize that for roughly the same amount of money, you could pick up a modern CPU like an AMD Athlon 740?
As for the case, I agree—around $200$83 is a solid price if you want to move it quickly.