William Clark86 said:It’s totally doable for a budget rig. About two years ago, with some help from Robert Rodriguez2, I took an old piece of junk and threw a GTX 1650 in there. I swapped out the ancient dual-core for a used quad-core, added 4GB of RAM, and a 350GB hard drive (kept everything else on my old drive and just used an SSD for the OS and games). Total cost was maybe a hundred bucks, plus those two Thermaltake fans I tossed in just to fill the empty space.
The result: all the Arkham games, AC Origins, Odyssey, the newer Tomb Raider titles, and NFS Payback all ran at a solid, playable 30 FPS on Ultra settings.
Honestly, the bang for my buck was incredible. 👍
What resolution were you actually playing NFS Payback and the AC series on at Ultra settings to get 60fps? Because even much beefier machines struggle with those, especially AC Origins and Odyssey.🤔
Can I get your honest opinion here? ................................................ Money is a bit tight right now, so how much longer can I realistically squeeze life out of this rig?
ASUS P5G41T-M LX2/GB (4xUSB 2.0, 2xPS/2, 3x3.5 mm, 1xLAN, 1xVGA) PQI 1x2 GB DDR3-1333 Intel Celeron E3400 @ 2.60 GHz (1MB cache) Intel GMA X4500 Windows 7 Enterprise Build 7600 Genius KB350e Genius Netscroll 100X Hama E80 2.0 GNR TS902 19'' WSXGA 16:10 (1280x1024) Alcatel SpeedStick L850V LTE ................................................. What kind of graphics card would actually work with this CPU?
How long can you use it? Until it dies. What will the experience be like? Terrible. This machine isn't even really up to basic web browsing anymore, let alone anything heavy.
Honestly, I think this setup is a joke considering the budget. These parts are fine if you're building a $900 rig, but definitely not for a $2,700 build—especially when they’ve crammed everything in just to squeeze in an RTX 2080 Ti that’s going to be bottlenecked by the CPU anyway. The Ryzen 1700X is choking out even a much weaker GTX 1080 Ti here. Even an old Core i7 7700 from two generations ago pulls significantly better numbers at 1440p with a 1080 Ti. Plus, let's be real, the RTX 2080 is right in the same ballpark as the 1080 Ti, maybe even slightly better. click Bottom line? You're going to get much better performance with a Core i7 9700K paired with an RTX 2080 than you will with a Ryzen 1700X and a 2080 Ti. On top of that, you actually get decent components: a solid cooler, a motherboard built for overclocking, a high-quality power supply with a 10-year warranty, and a case with actual airflow thanks to those five pre-installed 120mm fans. Slapping a mid-tier power supply with a measly 3-year warranty into an $2,700 machine makes zero sense. It's like buying an Aston Martin and then trying to save money on the tires.
Total disaster. Picking a Ryzen 1700 for 144Hz gaming was a massive mistake. Honestly, the motherboard, power supply, case, and cooler are all bottom-tier junk considering this rig cost nearly $3,000.
They cut way too many corners just to squeeze in an RTX 2080 Ti, but even then, an RTX 2080 would be more than enough for 1440p. Plus, I seriously doubt that 1700 can actually handle an RTX 2080 Ti without hitting a major bottleneck, which basically drags you right back down to the performance levels of a standard 2080 anyway.
Total: $6139 (-2%=$6.00) Free assembly and shipping
This build was put together at an IT Services Company. As a forum member, you get 2% off. If you decide to order from them, just mention the forum discount when you reach out and give them your username. That’s all there is to it.
1. What kind of price are we talking about here? 2. Based on how this is listed, I’m guessing it’s one of those pre-built setups from a big-box retailer like Best Buy, which means there's a massive chance you're being overcharged for what's actually inside.
Let me know your total budget, how you're planning to pay, and exactly what you need this rig to do—whether it's high-end gaming or just heavy workstation stuff—and I'll help you make sense of it.
Look, we have to keep in mind that not everyone actually enjoys staring at a massive 27" or 32" monitor all day. Plus, not everyone has the desk setup or the ergonomic chair to support that kind of footprint. There might be a perfectly good reason why someone is insisting on a 24" screen—for some people, that’s pretty much the sweet spot for their workspace.
Look, the NVIDIA RTX 2070 isn't going to cut it if you're aiming for 1440p at 144Hz. In most modern titles, you're going to see average frame rates dipping well below 100fps.
If you want to use an NVIDIA RTX 2070, stick to 1440p at 60Hz or just play at 1080p with a 144Hz refresh rate.
Why bother dropping cash on high-end 3000MHz RAM when that B360 motherboard is just going to throttle everything down to 2666MHz anyway? You might as well grab the Aegis kit instead; it’s practically $67 cheaper, and you'll end up with the exact same 2666MHz speeds. Also, I don't get the logic behind running two 2TB drives when a single 4TB unit is actually more budget-friendly.
fadedviper26 said:Just wanted to clear a few things up here. I’m actually scaling back on the GPU because, let's be honest, an NVIDIA RTX 2080 is just way too steep for my budget right now. As for the CPU, I'm definitely sticking with either an Intel Core i7-8700 or a 9700K—there's absolutely no way I'm settling for some weak i5. I'm trying to figure out which graphics card would be the ultimate best buy to pair with those processors. Maybe a 1070ti or an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070? I'll probably just hunt down a 24-inch 144Hz monitor somewhere on my own. It would be pretty ideal if I could grab all the parts from a single shop like Best Buy to keep things simple. Later,
I didn't see anything about him asking for an installment plan. He's making a lot of demands, honestly, especially considering what he's willing to pay and how he wants to handle the transaction.
Total: $5136 (-2%=$5.00) Free assembly and shipping
Honestly, the difference between 3000MHz and 3200MHz RAM is basically invisible when you're actually playing games. You'll definitely notice the extra cost in your wallet, though. Stick with the 3000MHz; it's much more sensible.
Kimberly Gomez34 said:Aegis is a total no-brainer. Honestly, they're among the cheapest options out there (plus they're 3000MHz CL16), and they have a proven track record of working flawlessly on almost every motherboard you throw them at. No headaches, no nonsense.
That Intel H370 board has some issues with that Random Access Memory; it won't push past 2666MHz. I can't say for sure if other H370 models behave the same way.