Posts by Adam Moore3

crimsonstag84 said:Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 3 WD10EZEX
AMD Ryzen 3 2200G
Inno3D GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Compact 2, INO-N1060-6DDN-L5GM
Zalman Z1 Mid Tower Case Black, USB 3.0, no PSU ZAL-ZM-Z1
Thermaltake TR2 S 450W Power Supply
Crucial 8GB DDR4 2400UDIMM, CRU-CT8G4DFS824A
MSI B350 Desktop Motherboard (SAM4, 4xDDR4, 2xPCI-Ex16, 2xPCI-Ex1, 2xPCI, USB3.1, USB2.0, 4xSATA III) B350-PC_MATE
WD Green SSD (2.5", 120GB, SATA III 6 Gb/s)

Total: $1834 - Centro

Honestly, I'd rather just throw a 240GB SSD into the Futurin build and still stay under $550 than try upgrading to a barely better R3 2200G over an R3 1200.

What Halek posted regarding Futurin is actually better when you look at the FPS. You’ll almost certainly hit a GPU bottleneck before the processor even becomes an issue. Just keep in mind that the R5 1600 build is much more future-proof; you'll be able to just swap out graphics cards for a long time before the CPU starts holding you back.

Either way, your best bet is probably just to hold off on buying for a bit. GPU prices have nowhere to go but down.

Intel Core 5 6C/12T 1600
ASRock AB350 PRO4, AM4
Crucial DRAM 8GB DDR4 2666 MT/s
Seagate BarraCuda 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm
Samsung SSD 870 EVO 120GB SATA3 2.5 SSD (7mm height)
Fortron napajanje Hexa 85+ 450W
MS PANTHERA gaming kućište
EVGA GTX 1050 Ti Twin X2 4GB GDDR5

Total: $1909 futura-it.com

You could always stretch your budget for a larger SSD if you want. It’s highly recommended, since 120GB gets cramped pretty fast.

Noah Thompson said:First thing's first: gaming... 😁

Grehota, aiming for just a 1050Ti in a gaming build costing over $800 is a mistake. In my opinion, you should save money (in this order) on the case, the SSD, and the power supply—you could even ditch the optical drive since you probably don't need it—to squeeze in a GTX 1060 6 instead. Also, don't shop at Best Buy unless you're using a payment plan.

crimsonstag84 put together a killer build for just over $700 in that other thread. You should take a page out of that book, especially since you have extra wiggle room to beef things up wherever you saved cash.

A budget of $2667 paired with a 1050Ti is a NO-GO, regardless of how early you're shopping.

Thomas Diaz7 said:Is it actually safe to buy a used graphics card with a warranty on Craigslist? I found a couple of MSI 1080s for $45.

If you get the whole kit—original box, receipt, warranty, all that—then yeah, it’s pretty safe. But $45 for a 1080? That isn't even a great deal; you can find newer ones for about $55.

Thomas Diaz7 said:This prebuilt looks solid to me, except for the CPU—it’s an i3 instead of an R5... is there actually a huge difference between an i3 and a Ryzen here?

Also, I was reading up on this monitor, and apparently, a bunch of people returned it because of ghosting issues... sounds like it's not great for competitive gaming.
I'm planning on playing CS:GO, Dota, and some RPGs like Witcher or Skyrim... plus, a better CPU would be nice since I do music production... maybe I'm asking for too much for $10k.

Under normal circumstances, no. A buddy of mine who streams put together a build for about $10k around a year ago with a 1070 and an R5 1600. But given how things are right now, yeah, in this economy, $10k is asking a lot.

I have to admit, some of those future bundles actually look like decent deals. Even with the Corsair TX included.

Look, the whole point of the 2400G is that integrated graphics, which perform roughly on par with a GTX 1030. Nobody picks up a 2400G just because they want a better CPU than the R5 1600.

nimblegardener37 said:Not a single thing is in place yet. I’m still in the planning stages, which is exactly why I want to pick your brains about optimizing the airflow...

I meant the pictures, they aren't showing up 🍿

nimblegardener37 said:Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some guidance—specifically, what’s the gold standard for setting up airflow in a rig like this?

Here’s the chassis I’m working with..



I was sketching out a plan along these lines. I’ve got six available slots for 120mm fans..



Now, regarding that bottom fan: I’m worried if I flip it to pull air into the case, it’ll fight against the GPU’s own fans blowing in the opposite direction. Or am I just overthinking it? Is that actually an issue?

Keep in mind, I’m currently running a basic stock CPU cooler, but the plan is to upgrade to an Arctic Cooling Freezer 33 eSports Edition soon, so please factor that into your logic..

I'm all ears. Let me know what you think..

You didn't attach anything, nothing is showing up.😛

4100 🤣 Would the order have gone through if I had placed it at last year's price?

Bradley Jones46 said:Thanks for the link! I've been searching everywhere, but I didn't think to check that specific site.😁

Based on this, the deal looks insane. A few extra FPS isn't worth paying an extra couple hundred bucks for. I still need to do some more digging, but if I pull the trigger, I'll grab it today.

My only real concern is how much "future-proofing" we're actually getting with a card like this.

Keep in mind that comparison is against the 3GB GTX 1060 version; the 6GB model is even beefier.

As for future-proofing, it’s hard to say because everyone defines that differently. The GTX 970 will definitely serve you for a few more years and run just about anything you throw at it, but you probably can't max out some titles right now. Who knows how many years until you're stuck playing on high/medium settings.

If you aren't a stickler for ultra settings and fine-tuning, you probably won't regret it. But if you expect it to breeze through everything effortlessly for several more years—that's a stretch.

When you talk about true future-proofing, there's no such thing as a GPU being too powerful for its price.🙂

CLICK

It's getting pretty close to the GTX 1060 3GB. It’ll be relatively weaker than the 6GB version, sure, but you're getting it for half the price. Either way, it's a great value.

Bradley Jones46 said:Thanks for the reply. I didn't realize the VS series was such a bottom-tier choice. I'll swap out the power supply for one of the ones you listed—still deciding which one, though having extra cables isn't really an issue for me.
I haven't looked too closely at the case yet, but I think it comes with three fans: two in the front and one in the back.

As for the graphics card, I wouldn't buy through Craigslist unless it was an absolute steal, and honestly, I can't be bothered driving all the way out to Des Moines.

I also found this option for 3k with a 3-year warranty:

I'm still going to hunt for a GPU; finding something decent is going to be tough. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.🙂

You could go with that, it's not insanely bad, just a bad deal.😬 I'm telling you, your best bet is to wait a few months for things to stabilize because right now it's a total disaster. But if you're impatient, just try to keep the GPU under 3K if you're eyeing the 1060 6GB.

Bradley Jones46 said:Hey everyone,

I'm currently in the process of buying a new PC. I know my way around computers well enough, but I wanted to reach out and get some advice from you guys just to be safe.🙂

Right now, I've got a low-to-mid range rig that I'm thinking about letting go of for about $500. It runs most AAA titles on low-to-mid settings with high textures, but it’s definitely time for me to upgrade to something better.

The basics:
Budget: $2333 (+- $200)
One-time payment (cash/Visa)
I plan on playing everything—from PopCap Games and League of Legends to COD, PUBG, Overwatch, etc.
I want it to be as future-proof as this budget allows.
Washington, D.C.

I put together this build over at ADM:

Motherboard: ASRock AB350M PRO4, s.AM4, 90-MXB520-A0UAYZ
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 BOX, 3.2GHz 16MB, AM4
SSD: 240GB Kingston A400, SATA3, SA400S37/240G
Case: MS PANTHERA midi tower
RAM: DDR4 8GB (1x8GB) PC4-19200 2400MHz CL14 Corsair Vengeance LPX Black, CMK8GX4M1A2400C14
GPU: MSI GTX1060 gaming x 6 g, 6 GB DDR5, 192-bit, 1809/8100 MHz
PSU: 450W Corsair VS Series VS450, ATX 2.31, CP-920096

It comes out to $7700 with a 10% discount for paying upfront.

I'm not entirely sure if these components are the best bang for my buck, so please feel free to chime in with suggestions.
Also, where would be the best place to buy this? Any good local shops or online retailers?

BTW, I didn't include an HDD because I have a relatively new 1TB SATA3 hard drive.

Thanks! 🙂

It's funny how everyone jumps on Corsair, specifically the VS series, like people think they can't be fooled when they hear the name. 😛The VS is actually their worst line; grab THIS or THIS if you hate dealing with extra cables (they're modular). I'd also pick up a case from at least Zalman; I don't even know how many fans come with that MS case.

The rest is fine, though personally, I wouldn't buy a PC right now because spending $3500 on a GTX 1060 is just absurd. Either wait a month or maybe keep an eye on Craigslist until you find a decent deal with a warranty.

EDIT: CLICK Given the circumstances, I'd rather go with something like this instead of dropping $3500 on a GTX 1060. You still get a year of warranty, and you might even be able to haggle the price down by a few hundred bucks.

EDIT2: CLICK This is a great price, considering the situation.

Jonathan Barrett said:https://www.newegg.com/p/processor-am4/1946 660
https://www.amazon.com/processors-600/results=25 1414
https://www.bestbuy.com/memory-kingston/product/ 626.60
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/ssd-wd-green/2ii-6-gb-s.aspx 554.76
https://www.honeywell.com/computer-parts/2DNEO/product/ 296.48

That puts you at about 3600 including shipping.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/corsair-gaming-keyboard/ +618

With the keyboard, you're looking at roughly 4200.

Lowest prices I could find.

Either stretch your budget to 4200 or hold off on the keyboard until you save up those extra $206

That RAM is for laptops, and that SSD is garbage compared to Logitech. Also, to the OP—get a better motherboard.

Either way, you aren't going to find everything on your list for 3500.

Jonathan Barrett said:Since the guy was asking about the price 😁

I didn't end up buying the 1070 because, honestly, the seller seemed sketchy to me. The price would have been $867. There’s no warranty and no receipt. He claimed it barely saw any use, but I don't know... either it's stolen or it's broken. I picked up a 1060 3gb for $140. Sold an R9 280 3gb for $10.

Hmm, I hear people worrying all the time that a card might be stolen in situations like this, but I don't get how that even happens? Like, does a thief just break into someone's house and snatch a GPU right out of their PC? I don't get it 😬

You should have at least asked if they had the original box and everything that comes with it.

Jonathan Barrett said:So...

I have the chance to pick up a GTX 1070 for an insanely low price, but the issue is my current setup: an FX 6300 overclocked to 4.1GHz on all cores, paired with 8GB of DDR3 at 1666 MHz. I currently have an R9 280 in there (which I already sold, and waiting on the replacement is taking forever). Will I see better performance compared to my old card, or is there a chance it might actually perform worse in games?

I know there's going to be a bottleneck—I'm fully aware of that—but I'm waiting to jump over to Ryzen 2 to see how things shake out (either an R5 1600 or a new Rx 2 xxx processor + 16GB RAM), which is why the FX 6300 is still hanging in there.

Here is where my frame rates stand right now: NBA 2K18 hits 45-70 fps on max settings. PUBG runs at 45-65 fps on very low settings, except for anti-aliasing which is set to ultra. GTA V sits at 40-60 fps on mid-high settings.

It definitely won't be worse. Your CPU will just push the GPU as hard as it can, and at worst, you'll end up with roughly what the 280 was giving you. But realistically, in titles where the GPU was previously the bottleneck, you'll see an improvement. In games where the CPU was already pinned at 100%, you might not notice much difference.

Either way, if you can snag it for a good price and you're planning an upgrade soon anyway, you can't really go wrong. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of price are we talking about? 😁

Bryan Rodriguez3 said:I tried asking about this a month ago but never got a reply... Since prices are all over the place lately, what's this build actually worth today? A buddy of mine is interested, and I figured I'd see if it makes sense to sell it for top dollar if the timing is right... originally bought back in November 2016.

MSI b150M- Pro-VDH $83
i5 6402P $233
Z1 NEO 150-$67
DDR4 8GB Kingston $150
RX 480 Nitro+ 8gb Sapphire $667
550W FSP Fortron 250-$100
SSD 240GB Kingston $133

The GPU market is pretty insane right now, so it's tough to pin down an exact number. You could probably grab $667 on Craigslist since you've still got some warranty left, especially considering the current value of a 4GB RX 580 $1000 🎉 You might even be able to ask for more given how the market is behaving.

wiredotter14 said:Yeah, you just move it from your wallet to something like your Coinbase account first, which costs maybe $0.30. Then you sell the crypto for USD; the fee there is roughly 1% plus whatever exchange rate you get, which ends up being about 2-3% off the mid-market rate. After that, you send the cash to your bank (just enter your routing number), there’s a small fee, and it hits your account in a day or two.

There are cheaper ways than using Coinbase, but it's the most popular one.

What's the deal with all that wire transfer nonsense? I tried to sell something once just to test the waters, but it kept giving me trouble—how do I fix that? You can PM me if you don't want to spam the thread, if you know how. 😁