Larry Ortiz5 said:Rockstar actually nailed the optimization this time; they didn't screw up like they did with Grand Theft Auto IV
Going a bit off-topic here, but since this is where everyone hangs out and you hit the nail on the head... 😬 Everyone is praising the optimization for Grand Theft Auto V, but has anyone heard that on practically 90% of laptops it's impossible to even launch the game? The issue is with any laptop running dual graphics (which is basically every decent laptop these days); the game refuses to use the dedicated GPU and just defaults to the integrated one. It’s a massive headache. People are flooding Rockstar's pages with complaints, venting for a week straight, and getting zero response. From what I've read—and from my own attempts—every single workaround has failed. So, things aren't exactly sunshine and rainbows when it comes to "optimization." It's like they didn't even bother testing the most anticipated game of the year on a laptop before releasing it... And the worst part? Nobody is talking about it. When there was that bug with usernames on Windows 7 that prevented the game from starting, everyone jumped on it immediately and a fix was out within hours. But for this? Total silence. I've been scouring various forums for days now and nothing, absolutely nothing. It's a disaster... 🤦
You could actually fit some pretty beefy GPUs in here:
1 x Intel Core i7-2600K Processor 3.5GHz, 14MB, 95W, LGA1155 1 x Gigabyte 970A-DS3P Motherboard, AM3+, AMD 970 SB950, 4x DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866 1 x 4GB (1x4GB) Corsair DDR3, 1600MHz, CL11, Value Series, CMV4GX3M1A160C11 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970, Double Dissipation Edition 1 x TOSHIBA 1TB Hard Drive, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA100 1 x Spire Kepler Rev.2 CPU Cooler, 1156/775/FM1, 96.5×51×125 mm, 92mm fan 1 x EVGA 500 W Power Supply, Hyper, PPA5005003, 12cm fan 1 x Zalman Z3 PLUS Mid Tower Case, 192(W)x465(H)x430(D)mm. ATX Standard
Timothy Kim60 said:Another thing that bugs me about HWiNFO is how inconsistent the readings look for everyone. Take that screenshot from the other link—it clearly just lists "CPU" instead of making you hunt for "CPUTIN."
You could just download CPU-Z, go to the sensor section, and check the CPU temperature (not just the individual core temps like you see on some AMD builds). That CPU temp will match the CPUTIN value in HWiNFO perfectly.
They probably used a different version of HWiNFO there; they release updates all the time. Or it might just be the motherboard and its specific sensors.🤷
Yeah, I nearly lost it when I saw my buddy's Athlon running that hot. Look, check the Core Temp, not the package temp like TimothyKim60 showed in his screenshot—those readings are totally off. I have no clue which sensor he's even pulling that package reading from... And btw, opening the side panel doesn't automatically mean temperatures will drop. It could actually make things worse depending on the airflow in the case and the ambient room temperature. I tried that exact thing with my old rig, popping the side open. In the end, I just kept it closed whenever I was actually measuring temps.
Messy 🤣 Of course not; that’s APU technology. It's a great value for casual users since both the processor and the integrated graphics are decent. If you want, you can play some light games on it, and if you ever feel like upgrading, you can just plug in a dedicated graphics card later. It's practical. Regarding a build around OKO $4,500, it would look something like this:
1 x Intel Core i7 3.5GHz,14MB,95W,AM3+, FD6300WMHK 1 x Gigabyte 970A-DS3P, AM3+, AMD 970 SB950, 4x DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866 1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingmax, 1600MHz, non-ECC, CL9.0, FLGG 1 x Kingston SSD 120GB Kingston Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G 1 x Spire Kepler Rev.2 ,hladnjak, 1156/775/FM1, 96.5×51×125 mm ,92mm 1 x TOSHIBA 1TB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA100 1 x Napajanje FORTRON 400W, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm ventilator 1 x XFX NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260X 1075M Boost 1GB DDR5 Displ 1 x Zalman Z3 mid tower case. 192(W)x465(H)x430(D)mm. MB standard
$1571 adm.hr
If you were willing to spend more money, you should definitely put it toward a stronger processor—in this case, the Intel Core i7. It's generally the best buy in this price range. Since it doesn't have integrated graphics, you'll need a separate card, which in this setup is the 260X. It's a bit pricey right now; when I picked mine up, it was just slightly over $267, but regardless, it's still a better value than the 250/250X. So, that's basically how the whole thing would look. Personally, though, I don't think you need to go beyond what was already suggested, because you don't seem like a heavy user, so an APU-based build would be plenty for you. 🙂
brightnomad7 said:I'm running 32-bit right now, but I think I'll switch over to 64-bit soon.
First off, how on earth were you able to "install an extra 4 GB of RAM into your graphics card"? 😕 Second, 32-bit Windows can only handle about 3.5 GB of RAM at most, so if you actually want to make use of all 8 GB, you're definitely going to have to move up to 64-bit.🙂
Kimberly Gomez34 said:If he's aiming for the premium version, I think his best bet would be grabbing the GTX 970, especially with that 3-year warranty. From there, he might want to put the rest of the budget toward a higher-end power supply—something like an XFX 550w ts, a CS450M, or maybe a Super Flower 450/550w.
That’ll push him past his max budget. He could potentially swap the Pro4 for a Pro3 and skip the SSD if he plans on upgrading both the PSU and the GPU. But honestly, I don't see why he'd need to—he could just throw a Titanko x in there if he wants.😬
Here’s one build where I squeezed every single cent out of the budget:
1 x Intel Core i5-4460 socket 1150 1 x ASRock B85 Pro4 2 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1600MHz, FLGF 1 x GAINWARD GTX 970 Phantom 4GB, 4096 MB GDDR5/256 bits 1 x HDD Seagate 1TB, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, ST1000DM003 1 x Kingston SSD 120GB HyperX Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G 1 x Fortron 500W Power Supply, Hyper, PPA5005003, 12cm fan 1 x LG GH24NS DVD burner, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R 1 x Zalman R1 mid tower case. 192(W) x 465(H) x 450(D)mm.
Yeah, I mean, it’s obvious that option was disabled in the BIOS, so I have no idea why this keeps happening... I don't know, if I actually find the time or the motivation, maybe I'll try a BIOS update, assuming there's even a newer version out there.
No offense, but that price is insane. You could practically walk into Best Buy and pick up a brand new machine for that kind of money. On top of that, the build is pretty unbalanced, so for $1167 you’d definitely get more bang for your buck with a new setup. You've got a 550W power supply but almost no power draw; you could have swapped that out for a basic entry-level unit from Hex and used that extra cash to upgrade to a 260X instead of the 250X, or even grabbed a better motherboard. So yeah, not really—I think you overshot the asking price by a mile, unfortunately.
Have you tried this software? ....I've tested plenty of programs that failed when I tried using my laptop as a WiFi hotspot, until I stumbled upon this one. It actually works, provided your laptop can detect wireless networks—which is how you know the WiFi is active...... .....hmm, maybe try manually enabling the WiFi on your laptop? Use the FN key—it’s F12 on mine—and I have both the WiFi and the LAN cable active on my laptop, so this program runs fine whenever I need it.......
Tried that one too, doesn't work. And obviously, I turned the WiFi on. 🤣 Regardless, it's always the same issue: the WiFi gets extinguished the moment the LAN is plugged in.
Yeah, I did; I bridged the connections, but honestly, I don't see how that would help me specifically. I've pretty much given up after seeing that switching in the BIOS is extinguished, yet the WiFi still shuts off anyway. Clearly, something isn't working right here, and that's just that. I doubt there's anything else to be done. Anyway, thanks for the ( attempt at ) helping.🙂
George Sanders37 said:Try checking your BIOS settings. http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Wireles...d/td-p/3382887
That feeling when you think, "YES, that's gotta be it!" only to go into the BIOS and realize the LAN/WLAN switching is already extinguished.
I'm honestly stumped. That damn switching is extinguished, but it's still doing the exact same thing. If I unplug the cable and turn on the WLAN, both the adapter and the service work fine. But as soon as I plug the LAN cable back in, the service shuts down and the WLAN adapter goes dark. And the switching is turned off. I even tried turning the switching back on, but nothing changed. Is there something else in those options above that shouldn't be enabled?
I'm running Windows 7 Ultimate 64. Look, a buddy of mine uses USB Tethering with his Xperia all the time without any issues; he just plugs the phone into his laptop via USB and surfs to his heart's content using mobile data. On my iPhone, I can only share the connection via WiFi, so I can't even use standard USB Tethering, let alone reverse tethering to get internet on the phone from the laptop. That’s why I’m not even bothering with that—instead, I'm trying to figure out this mess with my laptop and the damn WirelessAutoconfig service. It's causing me nothing but headaches.
EDIT: Okay, I think I found the culprit. My WiFi adapter automatically shuts itself down whenever I plug in an Ethernet cable. It won't allow both to be active at once. I tried unplugging the LAN, turning on the WiFi, and then the service worked perfectly fine. The issue is that my WiFi turns itself off automatically as soon as I connect to the internet via LAN, which means the WirelessAutoconfig service can't run because the hardware itself is disabled. Now what?
George Sanders37 said:Regarding connecting your phone to your laptop, the term you're looking for is "reverse tethering." You mentioned you already tried that, but I'm not sure if you've checked out these links; http://mobileoffice.about.com/od/pho...connection.htm http://www.t2lead.in/how-to-make-wi-...topswindows-8/ http://superuser.com/questions/43462...-to-my-android
The issue is that I have an iPhone, specifically an Android Phone🙂 There isn't even a reverse tethering option. In fact, standard USB Tethering doesn't exist either; the only way I can share internet from my phone to my laptop is through a WiFi hotspot I set up on the device. But that's beside the point. My main headache is this laptop issue. I've already messed around with every single one of those links you sent me. It always comes back to the same thing: my WirelessAutoconfig service won't start. And I CANNOT get it to run for the life of me. While searching online, I stumbled upon some info suggesting certain network cards don't support that WiFi miniport adapter (which I assume is what the WirelessAutoConfig service is), so that's my only theory right now. I've looked up how to force the service to start, I've even tinkered with the registry because apparently that helps some people, but nothing works for me. There's zero chance; no matter what I do, it just refuses to start. I even downloaded that Virtual router from the link you provided, but even that won't work. Guess What? "The WLAN AutoConfig service is not running." 🙂 The exact same thing happens with Connectify, Virtual router, and some other Megabyte mini-software I can't quite remember the name of. I'm seriously running out of ideas...
I'm trying to turn my laptop into a hotspot. Basically, I've got an Ethernet connection plugged in, and I want to share that internet via a WiFi hotspot so I can get my phone online too. For some reason, I just can't make it work. I've tried setting it up manually through the command prompt, and I even messed around with a few different hotspot apps like Connectify and stuff. Every single attempt hits the same wall: my WirelessAutoConfig service won't stay running. I went into services.msc, found the service, and tried to start it manually, but it just gets extinguished again after a few seconds. I did some digging online, but nothing really clicked. If I'm understanding this correctly—and I might be wrong here—some network cards just don't support the WiFi miniport adapter required to create these hotspots. Can anyone confirm if that's the case so I can stop wasting my time? Or could this actually be a driver issue or something else entirely? I'm using a Qualcomm Atheros QCA9565 802.11b/g/n WiFi adapter.
Jamie Lopez19 said:I want to upgrade to a better graphics card, but I'm not sure if it's worth the money or how much it would cost for this build. Also, what's the maximum amount of VRAM a card could have that would actually work on this computer?
