First off, thanks for getting back to me. He doesn't even know which GPU he's running right now, but let's just assume it's some total piece of junk. The only thing we'll salvage from that old rig is a 500 GB hard drive for storage.
See, that’s my point—it makes zero sense to drop money on a six-year-old card like a 1050 Ti for what feels like an absurd price. The PC you linked me? I don't know, the power supply looks sketchy at best, and it's using a first-gen Ryzen. Honestly, I'm not feeling it; the only decent part there seems to be the graphics card.
In my opinion, the smarter play is to grab a build with a Ryzen 5 3400G featuring integrated Vega 11 graphics. It'll handle things like CS:GO or PUBG well enough for now. Then, once he saves up some cash and prices stabilize a bit, he can just pop in something like an RTX 2060 or better later on. Anyway, he mostly plays LoL, WoW, and World of Tanks. He wants to try PUBG, and from what I've read online, the Vega graphics should cut it. I threw this list together in a hurry. I didn't include a dedicated cooler because I was worried about overheating issues. Also, it looks like the standard cooler won't fit this CPU, so I might have to buy one separately. 1 * ASUS Prime A320M-A SKU: 0202149 2 * CRUCIAL 8GB DDR4-3200 MHz CL22 UDIMM (8Gbit/16Gbit) SKU: CT8G4DFRA32A 1 * SSD Kingston 480GB A400 Series 2.5" SATA3 SA400S37/480G SKU: 0140851 1 * Zalman 700W PSU LX-II Series SKU: ZAL-ZM700-LX-II 1 * Mid-Tower ATX Case, Black SKU: 47382 1 * Ryzen 5 3400G MPK SKU: 0400522- Total: $1276 Total with discount: $1149
EDIT—buying a used graphics card is completely out of the question. Even if it were my own brother asking, I wouldn't do it. I don't trust that none of them were used for crypto mining.
I’m currently attempting to spec out a PC for a friend, but honestly, given how insane the GPU market is right now—with prices being ridiculous and half the components we actually need being nowhere to be found—I’m feeling a bit lost on what to actually build here. Most of his workload involves schoolwork, specifically running AutoCAD programs. As far as gaming goes, he mostly sticks to older titles like League of Legends or World of Tanks. That said, he’d naturally like to try out some newer, more demanding games eventually. I’m debating whether it would be wise to just go with an integrated graphics setup, something like Vega 11? Would that even be able to handle any modern, more intensive titles at all? The plan was to wait until the market stabilizes and then grab a dedicated card later. I had initially put together a build featuring an ASUS GTX 1050 Ti 4GB, but I'm starting to wonder if there's even any point in that.$600 Is that card even considered "new" anymore? Clearly, I am no genius. The budget is somewhat flexible, sitting somewhere between $600 and $900, though I'd really prefer not to exceed that if possible. 1 * ASUS Prime A320M-A Part Number: 0202149 2 * CRUCIAL 8GB DDR4-3200 UDIMM CL22 (8Gbit/16Gbit) Part Number: CT8G4DFRA32A 1 * SSD Kingston 480GB A400 Series 2.5" SATA3 SA400S37/480G Part Number: 0140851 1 * Zalman 700W PSU LX-II Series Reta Part Number: ZAL-ZM700-LX-II 1 * Zalman S4 Mid-Tower ATX Case, Black Part Number: 47382 1 * AMD Ryzen 3600 6C/12T (4.2GHz,36MB,65W,AM4), MPK with Wraith Stealth cooler Part Number: 100-100000031MPK 1 * ASUS GTX 1050 Ti Part Number: 0902242 Total: $2068 Total with discount: $1862
So, I’ve got this Linksys N600 lying around, and after performing a complete factory reset, I've hit a wall. Every time I try to access the login page via 192.168.2.1, the page just refuses to load. I even tried the 0.1 address out of pure desperation, but absolutely nothing happens. I’m starting to wonder if I’ve managed to mess something up on my end—classic me. I have the LAN cable plugged directly into my PC, and that’s it; I haven't even connected to any other Wi-Fi networks to avoid any potential interference or signal confusion.
wanderingbison9 said:Look, don't throw anything at me, but I have to ask: did you actually plug the satellite speakers into the subwoofer? 😬 Is there even a dedicated knob to crank up the satellites? Which specific speakers are we talking about here?
They're Logitech Z313s. Honestly, I feel like an idiot—they don't have individual controls. There’s just this one single "joystick" thing where you adjust the volume, and all that does is boost the subwoofer. You can't actually turn the satellite volume up or down on the speakers themselves. I even tried adjusting the levels within Windows, but absolutely nothing happened. I tried plugging them directly into this monitor, then tried my phone, and it was the exact same story. It strikes me as incredibly weird that they don't have separate volume control for the satellites, unless I'm just being a complete moron and missed something obvious. EDIT My bad. I didn't plug the satellites into the back of the woofer. It works fine now; thank god I didn't embarrass myself by doubling back to the HR department.
Just wanted to give everyone a heads-up—I finally picked up that AOC model at the local Best Buy today. It ended up being about $27 more expensive than I originally planned, but honestly, whatever. The real disaster, though, was my decision to grab those 2.1 Logitech speakers to go with it for roughly $117. I get home, hook everything up, and what happens? Sound is coming out, sure, but it's nothing but bass. No mids, no highs, just pure thumping. I've already tested them on five different devices to be absolutely certain, and it’s the exact same result every single time. Yeah, looks like I'll be heading back to the store for a .
Greetings, I am in need of some counsel regarding a dilemma: should I opt for a monitor or a television? I have recently assembled a new build featuring an Intel Core i5-10600K paired with a rather lackluster GT 1030 2GB graphics card. To be clear, gaming is not my priority here; this machine is strictly for streaming movies and series, and I run quite a few virtual machines on it.
At the moment, I am using it hooked up to a 32" Vivax TV, which unfortunately caps out at a meager 720p resolution. I am looking to upgrade to Full HD, but I am hesitant to simply buy another 32" TV—I certainly wouldn't want anything smaller, but I don't see the point in staying at this size if I can go bigger. However, if I stick to a 32" screen, I am torn between finding a Full HD TV or pivoting to a dedicated monitor. I checked Best Buy nearby and spotted a Samsung monitor priced at roughly $300. The downside there is that I would be forced to purchase separate speakers. Since a TV comes with built-in audio, I am leaning toward the idea that purchasing a 32-inch Full HD TV might actually be the most logical move, given that I won't be gaming on it.$500
First off, regarding the screen—don't even bother buying a new one. Honestly, I think local repair shops would absolutely fleece you for at least $150 or more, and this laptop just isn't worth that kind of investment. Your best bet is to check eBay or Craigslist. To be sure, you should actually pop the screen off to check the exact model number on the back. Most 15.6-inch thicker displays are compatible, whereas yours isn't one of those ultra-slim ones, but you really need to verify which side the connector is on and whether it’s a 30-pin or 40-pin setup (though my money is on 40-pin) I'm fairly certain you can find a fully functional used one for maybe $30-$$133
And here's a little tip: you don't actually have to tear down the entire laptop just to swap out the screen!!!
You basically just pry off the top bezel—it's usually held in by small plastic clips, so you can just pop it loose with your fingers, then unscrew the mounting screws underneath (you might also find two small screws on the bezel itself near the hinges)
As for "the frame," I assume you mean the RAM. You don't need to gut the whole machine for that either; there’s usually a dedicated compartment on the bottom that you can just pop open to access the slots. A word of advice: if you haven't done this before, please don't wing it. It's better to just pay a friend who actually knows what they're doing$33 to handle it. If they know their way around a screwdriver, they can get everything sorted in about 20 minutes.
Adam Moore3 said:The integrated graphics on the 4650G are basically on par with a GTX 1050, so buying some cheap, separate card that's actually weaker than what you already have built-in makes absolutely zero sense.
We could even squeeze an 8C/16T 4750G in here:
AMD Ryzen 7 PRO 4750G tray + Wraith Spire cooler, s. AM4 Asrock B450M-PRO4 F, µATX, AM4, 90-MXBAB0-A0UAYZ DDR4 RAM 16GB (2x8) G.Skill 3000MHz AEGIS C16, F4-3000C16D-16GISB Kingston SSD 480GB A400 2.5" SATA, SA400S37/480G Zalman Z1 NEO Midi Tower Black EVGA 500W 80 Plus power supply, PPA5004901
Total: $1479 Best Buy (cash/transfer)
You could probably get closer to $400 if you ditched the SSD for an extra 240GB one, but honestly, if you're planning on running multiple VMs, you're going to run out of storage space immediately. This setup handles gaming just fine without a dedicated GPU, and if you drop a real card in later, you've got a powerhouse.
That sounds interesting to me, though I might skip the SSD since I've already got my own 240GB Patriot drive sitting right here.
Timothy Kim60 said:What you put together doesn't make any sense. That 3600XT is basically just an overpriced 3600 from $467, plus it lacks integrated graphics.
Build a PC based on this instead; it actually has integrated graphics.
Thanks so much for the reply. I honestly cobbled this together at 4:00 AM without thinking twice, haha. Does it make sense to just grab a standard 3600 without a GPU and pair it with some dirt-cheap placeholder card for maybe $50 just to get a display? I really don't feel like waiting until next week for a processor to arrive. Since they both have the same core count, I don't see a massive difference.
Here’s a quick list I cobbled together from the link since it's my local Best Buy and I could potentially head over there today to grab everything...
Though, I am a bit stumped by this Ryzen situation—apparently, it doesn't have an integrated GPU? Does that mean the whole thing just won't boot without a dedicated graphics card, or am I overthinking it? By the way, I just remembered I have a brand new 240GB Patriot SSD lying around at home, so I might as well use that to save some cash.
Or should I just pivot to the Intel Core i5-9400? They don't carry it in this specific link, so I'd have to track it down at a Micro Center, where it's actually quite a bit cheaper if I pick up a RAM kit too. DDR4 RAM, 16 GB, Corsair Vengeance RGB 2666MHz, 2x8GB kit which are $253 in the link, though they have a higher MHz rating
Alright folks, I could really use some guidance here. I'm looking to put together a custom PC build with a budget of roughly $1333 if we can make that work . At this stage, a dedicated GPU isn't my top priority; I'll likely slap one in later on—maybe even just picking up something used to save a few bucks . So, what am I actually planning to do with this machine? Primarily, I need to be able to run at least two instances of macOS simultaneously via VirtualBox without the whole system grinding to a halt. Because of that, I'm assuming I'll need at least 16GB of RAM and a Ryzen processor with a decent core count. Of course, if we can squeeze in at least a 240GB SSD for the OS installation plus a 1TB hard drive for storage, that would be ideal.
One non-negotiable: the motherboard absolutely has to have an HDMI output . My budget is somewhat flexible if things get pricey, but I was aiming for somewhere around $800-$333 and up . Keep in mind, I fully intend to add a graphics card down the road, just in case I decide to blow off some steam with a game or two once it's all set up.
It is entirely plausible that you're dealing with a faulty cable connecting your monitor to the PC. I’d suggest swapping out whatever you're using—be it VGA, HDMI, DVI, or whatever specific setup you have running—just to rule that out. Another move would be to plug your computer into a different monitor or even just a TV; if that works, you've successfully isolated the issue to the original monitor itself. If those don't yield results, your next step is to double-check your graphics card and ensure your drivers are actually up to date. Of course, the worst-case scenario remains: your GPU might simply be on its way out.
I’ve sent over the link to the laptop again, but honestly, the issue lies within the hardware itself. There isn't even an option in the BIOS to toggle the SATA mode—it’s stuck on AHCI, period. I even tried setting a supervisor password to see if that would unlock any hidden settings, but predictably, nothing changed. I've attempted to run several different Linux distributions, but none of them can even detect the SSD. It's just sitting there, invisible.
So, my new Dell Aspire 3 just arrived today, picked up from Best Buy but instead of a working machine, I'm staring at an EFI shell because there's no OS installed. I tried running a Windows 10 installation from a bootable USB, but here’s the kicker: the installer can't even see my SSD during the partitioning stage. It keeps prompting me to load drivers just to recognize the drive. I've spent way too much time hunting for these drivers on the Dell support site and even checked the manufacturer's page for the SSD itself, but absolutely nothing is turning up.
To be specific, what have I actually attempted? I went into the BIOS and disabled Secure Boot. I even set a BIOS password just to try and toggle the Secure Boot mode settings, but no luck—the SSD remains invisible. To make matters worse, the BIOS seems stuck in UEFI mode with no other options. Next, I tried booting into Ubuntu, but that couldn't see the SSD either. Then I moved on to Hiren's Boot CD, but not a single utility included in that toolkit can detect the drive, even though the BIOS clearly shows it's present. I'm going to upload some screenshots of my BIOS settings; please, if anyone has a solution, let me know before I lose my mind. https://ibb.co/fx84qf8 https://ibb.co/GxwPgTK https://ibb.co/gVwJ6jZ https://ibb.co/pJg4z7j https://ibb.co/Xs2xW7M https://ibb.co/GxwPgTK
The link was more of an afterthought, really. Personally, I’ve been running Alpha for a few years now and couldn't be happier with it. If the OP is feeling a bit hesitant about going with Alpha, they could always just grab a TP-Link—you definitely won't go wrong there.
Look, there’s really no need to overcomplicate things here. If you only need Wi-Fi for a single computer—just one device, really—honestly, just scour eBay and grab an Alpha adapter. You won't regret it; I’ve used them myself quite extensively, almost obsessively. Here is a quick example for you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/example-link
Just be careful not to pick up some cheap Chinese knockoff. Though, I suppose you could probably find something even cheaper if you look hard enough,
But hey, if your neighbor is relatively close—say within 30 to 50 feet—and you actually want decent coverage throughout your entire house, you might want to look into getting a range extender. You set it up inside your place, it hooks onto the neighbor's modem, and then boom, you've got internet everywhere. Personally, I’d recommend a TP-Link extender with those two large antennas on it.
It’s not actually a bad score, though you should probably factor in a full week of headaches if it's a new build—you know, the usual nightmare of hunting down drivers and getting everything to play nice.