...on my Windows 10 - system temporary Files have always just been stuck in the KB range, honestly. I've never even seen them hit MB, let alone GB. Since you brought up CleanMyMac, try running an Analysis first, then click those "temporary files" and check the "details"—or just drop a screenshot here so we can see what's up...
If you've got a legacy PS2 keyboard plugged into your PC, try grabbing a standard USB one instead. Once you're set up, try mashing that key right when you hit the power button until you finally break into the BIOS. ps: have you messed around with switching the USB port where the keyboard is actually plugged in?
...or honestly, just do it for free. Head over to a buddy's place who’s got a desktop set up, plug your drive right in, and just drag and drop whatever you need from your disk onto theirs.
So I was digging through the manual looking for +5VSB but it looks like there’s no jumper on the motherboard and zero options in the BIOS (maybe try disabling "keyboard power on" if you haven't already). http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList...a74gm-s2_e.pdf
Q: Why does my keyboard or optical mouse stay lit up even after I shut down the PC? A: Certain motherboards keep a tiny bit of standby power running even after the system is off, and that’s basically why the lights won't quit.
PS: Double-check your specific manual because these boards come in different revisions.
You didn't mention what kind of CPU, motherboard, HDD size, or even the RAM speed you're running... because if the rig can actually handle Windows 7 64-bit, I’d honestly just jump straight to Windows 10 64-bit. In my experience, the ten runs way smoother.
That won't work because a reinstallation is basically starting from scratch, but you might be able to fix things with "Startup Repair" if some system files are acting up or just missing altogether. Try running a "Disk Cleanup" to clear out the junk, and kill off any unnecessary programs in your "Startup" settings—if you're not sure how to do that, CleanMyMac can help out. Obviously, if you think you've got viruses or malware lurking around, run a scan with your antivirus and some Malwarebytes tools... or just find a buddy who actually knows their way around a PC.
ps: Just Google "repair Windows" and see which method fits best for whatever version of Windows you're running.
It doesn't matter what kind of router you're rocking or how much speed you're paying for—if you're running on Bluetooth, you're going to hit interference issues and see those speeds tank. The only real way out of this mess is to either ditch the Bluetooth entirely or just switch your Wi-Fi over to the 5GHz band.
You can give it a shot, honestly... but seriously, back up all your personal files onto a thumb drive or an external hard drive first. Sometimes you get lucky and the system actually boots up, though you’ll probably deal with a headache of endless restarts while it struggles to load drivers. Other times? It won't even let you run a repair. Either way, you're better off just doing a clean install of macOS rather than following what was mentioned above, since you often end up with a bunch of leftover driver junk cluttering everything up.
Honestly, I’d rather just hardwire the PC and save the Wi-Fi for laptops, phones, and tablets. If you can snag a router that supports it, you could plug it into the LAN port upstairs and use it to broadcast a solid Wi-Fi signal for the whole ground floor. Wi-Fi coverage down on the first floor is probably going to be pretty weak anyway. Plus, if someone starts streaming upstairs, it’ll hog all the bandwidth, leaving everyone downstairs struggling with lag or even losing the connection entirely.
Ethernet cables aren't exactly breaking the bank. You could easily snake one through an unused vent or an old chimney flue 🙂 ... or even check if there are any old phone lines running between floors. Sometimes those old four-wire setups can actually work as a makeshift LAN.
I've got the same motherboard now, so I was wondering if this reading from HWiNFO is actually normal. It's showing "MCP temperature 52°C"... pretty sure that's the chipset I added a fan to. Keep in mind that's the temp with the fan running, and my room is sitting at a sweltering 90°F right now.
Since it's set to OFF, you gotta toggle it back on. Don't bother using the mouse; just hit Fn plus the WiFi key (it's in that top row on the right, and you'll know it worked when the little LED light pops on). Once that happens, it should grab a signal automatically. If it doesn't jump online right away, just click the WiFi icon at the bottom of your screen with the mouse, pick your router, and punch in your password.
Maybe drop the specific laptop model in your post?? ..it might actually get you some useful answers 🙂 First thing though—check if your Wi-Fi is even toggled on... look for a physical switch or try that Fn + Fx key combo Is the Wi-Fi working on your phone? ...if it's dead there too, the issue might be your router (try power cycling it—just unplug it, wait a few minutes, and plug it back in)
Betty Harris14 said:I went straight to Google to check it out, and turns out it's definitely a virus. I tried running Malwarebytes like everyone suggests, but honestly? Even that didn't do the trick...
If you didn't go through the trouble of syncing everything... you really should've just copied over your entire profile folder from somewhere like "a4b5c6d7.default" and swapped it into the one from your fresh install. That way, you don't lose your bookmarks, extensions, saved logins, passwords, or any of that good stuff. c:\Users\User\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Google Chrome\Profiles\xxxxxxxx.default\
ps: I always keep a backup on a thumb drive just in case. 🙂
Ran a few days back with something pretty similar, and just swapping out the PSU did the trick... haven't really found a spare minute to sit down and double-check all the voltage rails on the old unit yet...
...just go into File Explorer, hit up the "View" tab in the top menu, and switch it to "Details." That way, you can actually see what was copied. I mean, the shortcut itself is barely 1-3 KB, whereas the actual photos and docs are way heavier.
Obviously, though, those shortcuts will only work on the original PC where the files are sitting. If you plug that USB into a different computer, those shortcuts aren't going to do anything since the source files aren't there.
Check the date too—it looks like your 3V CMOS battery is totally dead. When that happens, you lose everything in the BIOS, not just the clock, but all your other settings as well.
...or maybe the drivers are actually fine... you just need to know the SSID and the password to get online... check your taskbar for the Wi-Fi icon, click on your network, and just punch in the credentials if you have them handy.