The specs on that card say it only supports "b" and "g" modes, which tops out at 54Mbps. That 125Mbps number they advertise is basically just marketing fluff because most routers nowadays run on "g" or "n," and your PCI card can't even touch "n" mode. Honestly, you’d be better off grabbing a USB Wi-Fi adapter—something like a TP-Link TL-WN822N—since those actually support "n" mode. Plus, it's way easier to just plug it into a port closer to a better signal rather than dragging your entire desktop tower halfway across the room or messing around with an antenna extension cable, which just ends up killing your signal strength anyway.
Until someone with more experience using this kind of VLC Media Player chimes in, I’d say just dive into the device's actual menu. Take a look at what settings it's actually offering—maybe there's a formatting option or some other tweak tucked away in there. You might also find some answers if you dig through the user manual.
Try reformatting that drive again, but this time pick FAT32 instead of NTFS in the settings. Most media players just aren't compatible with NTFS, so you'll have better luck that way.
...honestly, I’ve been struggling with your post from the jump because I can't make out a single thing in those screenshots. I'm basically just taking wild guesses at what you're seeing 😢 . If you could just upload them in a higher resolution, it would be way easier to actually spot whatever issue you're dealing with...
The error is popping up because your BIOS isn't picking up the bootable media. You basically need to make sure you have a bootable CD or a USB drive ready, and then jump into the BIOS settings to tell the machine to boot from that specific device first.
ps: Just a heads-up—I’d really recommend unplugging any other hard drives before you start the installation... honestly, it sounds like you might've accidentally installed Windows XP over your Windows 7 setup by formatting the wrong partition.😢 If you're trying to run both operating systems on separate drives, you should probably mess around with BCDedit to get everything lined up correctly...
Whenever I get my hands on a PC that’s acting up like that, I just go full scorched earth. I'll run my antivirus, hit it with Malwarebytes, then throw AdwCleaner at it just to be safe. If things still feel wonky, I’ll dive deep into the browser extensions and plugins. It’s crazy how easy it is for someone to accidentally install some junk, so I always make sure to double-check the startup list and everything sitting in the installed programs menu too...
...it's not acting normal for you? try this... right-click the desktop > Properties > Settings, then just pick a resolution like 1360 x 768 > Apply > OK
I’m running Windows XP Service Pack 3 on my ASUS GA-MA770_DS3 and I honestly haven't had a single hiccup with my thumb drives. The only thing that really trips me up is when I boot into Windows 7; if I switch USB ports, it acts like it doesn't even know what a camera or a printer is. It’s almost like the drivers are stuck, thinking they only belong to the specific USB port where they were first installed.
That Cisco unit has internal antennas... which honestly isn't nearly as good as having actual external ones sticking out of the case.
If you're already dealing with a weak signal upstairs, even that TP-Link router won't be able to pick up much from the Cisco device, so the core issue stays the same. You might get a stronger connection if you switch over to "b" mode, but you'll take a massive hit on speed—we're talking maybe 20Mbps—assuming your neighbors aren't all hogging the bandwidth on the same frequency.
Your best bet would be to just run an Ethernet cable from the Cisco unit up to the next floor and plug that TP-Link straight in.
Another way to play it is to connect the TP-Link to the Cisco unit downstairs using a short 1-2 meter patch cable. Since that thing has better antennas and higher power settings, it might actually push a usable signal upstairs. Try laying those stick antennas flat horizontally; they tend to radiate upward better that way.
There are probably other ways to hack this together, but I don't feel like digging through a manual right now.....
ps: check to see how crowded your local airwaves are. If there's a lot of interference, try setting a fixed channel where the signal is weakest. Then you can just kill the Wi-Fi on the Cisco and set up your SSID and password on the TP-Link instead.
Did you go into your Explorer settings and check the boxes to show "hidden" and "system" files? You're probably looking for things like the "Recycle Bin," "System Volume Information," and maybe some random "update" files too.
...honestly, I've been doing this for years—just grabbing everything from my old profile and dumping it straight into a fresh Chrome setup. It even pulls over all my add-ons, saved passwords, and every single setting along with my bookmarks.
Thanks... just so you know, I’m not even running stock. I’ve got a Golden Orb in there. I actually did a full deep clean last week—dusted everything out, swapped the thermal paste, reset the multiplier to factory settings, and dialed the CPU voltage down as low as it could go before things got unstable. And that was before the real heatwave even hits! Today it’s barely 82°F outside and I'm already seeing this. The only thing left to do is kill the fan curves and just crank the CPU cooler to max speed. Honestly, I’m starting to wonder if this software is just glitching and showing a fake 20°C delta. Even in the BIOS, the socket temp looks fine, but the individual core temps are always higher—and the later cores are consistently running about 10°F hotter than the first one. 😢
...you just find someone working an IT gig somewhere, maybe at a place like Verizon or even some local tech startup, who can just grab a crimping tool and snap those connectors onto the Ethernet cables for you.
Another "label" issue 😢 but look, I’m telling you, that’s just the drive name. Your C: drive doesn't even have it, and honestly, you don't need it anyway. What you actually need to do is go in and "assign" a "LETTER" to that specific drive so it actually shows up.
On your screen, that first bolded option labeled "Change Drive Letter and Path..." should have this little box with a letter and a dropdown menu where you can pick from the available letters. First, you gotta pick the actual drive. Go into that setting, select something like D if it’s available, and hit confirm. I'm pretty sure you'll need to reboot after that...
From what I can tell, that drive doesn't actually have a drive letter assigned to it (like D:)—it just shows up as the volume name. And since we don't really know what's sitting on that partition... maybe it's part of the system?