Posts by Robert Rodriguez2

ruggedpanther2 said:I'm running a Radeon HD 5670 right now. I want an upgrade. Looking at something like this: Radeon R7 370 4G. On paper, the performance jump looks like it's around 200 - 300 %.
http://www.hwcompare.com/19668/radeo...eon-r7-370-4g/

CPU is an i3, got an SSD (SATA II).
A few things are bugging me:
- My power supply is a 400W MSI unit. This new card pulls almost 110W, which is nearly double my old 65W card.
- The motherboard slot is PCIe 2.0 x16, but the new card wants PCIe 3.0 ×16.
Based on those specs, am I actually going to see that expected performance boost?
I don't want to end up thinking the new card is just as slow as the old one because something isn't clicking.

PCIe 2.0 vs 3.0 won't matter, it'll work fine. But that power supply? You definitely need to swap it out.

Reddit thread

As long as the drive has a SATA port, you're good to go. 😁

1 x Asrock B150M COMBO-G (s1151,DDR4,USB 3.0,SATA III,2x PCI-e,LAN) mATX
1 x Intel Core i5 6402P processor
1 x Kingston 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL15 DIMM 1Rx8
1 x Zalman Z3, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm
1 x Fortron Hyper 500W, 80+ - 60mj.
1 x Inno3D GTX 1060 iChill X3 6GB GDDR5 192-bit HerculeZ X3
1 x Kingston UV400 120GB SSD, SATA
1 x LG 22" LED IPS, 22MP58VQ, VGA, DVI, HDMI

Total: $2316
futura

The OP mentioned streaming is part of the plan, so he'll definitely get more mileage out of a beefier CPU and extra RAM than a high-end GPU.

The 1060 already struggles at 1080p and hits a wall on 1440p anyway... so he's fine on that front.

analogtiger19 said:

What am I even supposed to do with tobacco? 🤔 Even back when I was smoking, I couldn't roll a damn thing 😬

haha 😁

😵😵 I had a massive pile of tabs open, so I knew I was about to wreck 👎

analogtiger19 said:What should I be looking for when buying a Samsung Galaxy S23, 23" LED? 😬

a pound of tobacco 🤣

Conan - CNN

silverwolf29 said:My grandad just finished a basic computer class a few months back. Since I'm pretty broke, I can't really afford him a new rig, even though I'm his only grandson. He mostly uses it to browse the web, hunt for antiques, and check the weather. Looking for desktop recommendations—just the tower, no peripherals—for around $333.

You'll have to go used. Hard to find anything "decent" for $333...

1 x AMD Sempron x4 3850
1 x ASRock Q1900M (AM1, DDR3, USB 3.0, SATA III, VGA, mATX)
1 x MS Mercury 2 Case
1 x Crucial RAM 4GB DDR3L 1600 MT/s (PC3L-12800) CL11 Unbuffered UDIMM 240pin 1.35V/1.5V Single Ranked
1 x Western Digital 160GB S-ATAII, 7200rpm, 8MB cache (WD1600AVVS)
1 x AKYGA AK-B1-400 Basic 400W, 1x120, Bulk Power Supply

Total: $364
Cheapest thing I could find.
futura

Daniel Brown68 said:Hello,

I have a quick question and need some advice. I am looking to build a gaming PC based on the following specs:

Processor: Intel Core i5-6500 and
Graphics Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB Black Edition

As for components I already have—excluding peripherals—I have the power supply (an XFX Core 650W Pro 80 Plus), the CPU cooler (Arctic Freezer i30 CO), and a mid-tower case.

My question is whether it's possible to fit these items within my budget:

Motherboard with 4 DIMM slots and Crossfire support
A 1TB HDD for storage
An SSD for the OS
8GB of RAM
A 24" monitor

If you have any suggestions or component changes, I would appreciate them. Alternatively, if it isn't too much trouble, feel free to suggest a better configuration using a different processor and GPU, provided the CPU has at least a 3GHz clock speed and 6MB cache, as I am not particularly interested in overclocking.

Price is not an issue, up to $2.25 🙂

Centro.hr - konfa

Benjamin Wilson4 said:What's the verdict on the Fortron Raider? There's barely any info online (red flag), and what little I found isn't great. People mention durability and quiet operation, but also crappy output quality. It’s clearly an entry-level/budget unit. Yet, sellers here in the States act like it's some holy grail—does it actually hold up in the real world?

I've used almost nothing but Fortron power supplies for the last 15 years. Had three of them... all three died, but long after the warranty expired.
First rig, it popped after 6 years.
Second one, 8 years.
Third one (ran it alongside the second), lasted 7.
Right now I'm using an Antec unit just because I needed something immediately and it was the only thing in stock at my local Best Buy. Otherwise, I'd be back on Fortron.

A 5-year warranty and 80+ Bronze certification should be enough proof for me that the thing is fine.

wiredotter14 said:something like this

Is this basically just an ink-saving setup? Or is it more about being able to run cheap third-party inks regardless?
edit: nvm, Google actually did its job for once.

darkowl72 said:https://www.staples.com/printer-ink-refills

This one uses individual ink tanks with decent capacity—about 12.5ml per tank, enough for 500-800 pages according to 😬. Third-party replacements run about $50-$27, which isn't a total rip-off.

I've been running this thing for a while (this is just a redesign of my old one) and it's solid. I only bought official ink twice before I just installed a Cissom setup and now I'm good to go...

What's a Cissom kit, how do you install it, and what's the damage to my wallet? 😁

wiredotter14 said:I can't give you a specific recommendation off the top of my head for that budget. Ink costs shift every time a new generation comes out, so you really have to look at the combo of the printer plus the ink cost and check the feedback on Amazon. Reviews don't actually tell you much about real-world running costs.

Honestly, if you can swing it, just get a slightly better model that multiple people can share. Given how much you say you're printing, it’s not worth sinking too much money into a cheap unit.
For example, we use two identical Brother printers at our office—both were $500—and we've run 40-50k pages through the first one alone, and it's still kicking. (And that's just the official stuff; people were also printing college study guides on it.)
Keep in mind, black ink costs $8.25 and lasts for about 2,500 pages of text. It's an OfficeJet, and you can still find new ones on eBay. They're one of the few remaining series that use inks without any annoying chips.

I think if you go over $333, you could grab something much more solid with cheaper printing costs.
Also, sharing an inkjet is a smart move because the main reason they die is sitting idle—especially the color cartridges, since most people just print in black and white.

P.s. typing this on my phone, autocorrect is acting up.

Actually, I don't know, this isn't an office printer meant for massive print jobs, so... it's a home computer, used by a teacher to print lesson materials. Nothing crazy...

wiredotter14 said:The HP Envy was a hit because the ink is dirt cheap, but you can only find it at the Glock store.
The Model 3 is out there too, but the newer generation comes with pricier ink. Check Amazon.
It’s not like you're printing thousands of pages, so those $40-$17 cartridges aren't breaking the bank.
As for reliability, if you buy a device for $167, don't expect a Mercedes; just make sure you get that 24-month warranty coverage.

Is there an HP or Canon or something similar? They've had terrible luck with Epsons—their current one has already been in the shop twice...

hollowmarlin27 said:Look,

There's an old saying we use here.

>> The first kittens dive into the water.

I think that's how it works with first printers.

Why?

Just ask anyone. Common sense usually doesn't care about someone's corporate bottom line.

If you don't have a specific model or ink recommendation to offer, shut it. So far, you haven't said anything useful, you're just acting like a know-it-all.

wiredotter14 said:Robert Rodriguez2, what’s the yearly print volume look like? You can find printers at that price point using third-party ink, but the options suck. Gotta figure out how much you'll burn through in ink during year one alone.

Not sure, maybe 300-350 pages a month.

Need some advice. Looking for an all-in-one printer under $167 that can handle cheap third-party ink. I'm in either New York City or near Goldman Sachs...
It’s for a teacher printing schoolwork, so mostly just black and white stuff...

Should I hit up Best Buy, Staples, or somewhere better? 😁

AMD doesn't have a throttling issue. Their actual problem was drawing too much power from the slot—which happened to Nvidia cards back in the 700 series too. My 750 Ti pulls more than 75W as it is.

Thermal throttling means performance drops because the card can't hit its factory boost targets. If the card stays at its factory boost clocks regardless of heat, that isn't throttling. You only talk about throttling if it drops below the base clock, and I haven't seen a single review where a card actually fell below its base clock.

1 x GIGABYTE GA-B150M-DS3H (S1151, 4xDDR4, DVI/HDMI/VGA, USB3.0, M.2, LAN)
1 x Intel Core i5-6400 (2.7GHz, 6MB,LGA1151) box
1 x Sapphire RX480 8GB GDDR5, HDMI, 3x DP
1 x Fortron Hyper 600W, 80+ - 60mj.
1 x SSD AD 120GB SP550
1 x HDD Seagate BarraCuda 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance
1 x High-Performance 1 x Cooler Master Hyper 212, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm
1 x Kingston 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL15 DIMM 1Rx8

Total: $2049
Best Buy

Larry Ortiz5 said:Guys, the GTX 1060 is just a tiny bit better than the GTX 970, right?

It's not a "tiny bit." It's significantly better.😁

crimsonstag84 said:New GPU updates - Center:

EVGA GTX 1060 4GB stock - $566
MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X 8GB - $688
MSI GTX 1060 6GB Armor - $814

Not bad 🙂

What's the move? You think a GTX 1060 (8GB), maybe a Sapphire version or one of those custom models, will drop to $22 or lower in three or four months?