Posts by analogtiger19

Timothy Kim60 said:the admin is working on a new site

http://adm.us.win14.mojsite.com/

Thank God they'll finally list the warranty info on every single product page🙄 that was the one thing driving me crazy about them😬

When does the dev phase wrap up? ☕

Ronald Myers81 said:Just got my new 1TB WD Caviar Blue at home, but I’m worried I ended up with a dud!
Basically, I keep hearing this spin-up sound—like when I’m skipping tracks in Winamp or shutting down the PC, kind of like how an old CD drive sounds when it starts spinning up—and then a click! Is it possible I bought a faulty drive? What should I do? Will they actually honor the warranty return?

Are you running Windows 7? Windows has those power-saving settings that put drives into "sleep mode" when they aren't being used. It kicks back in whenever you click something or start searching the drive. That feature used to drive me absolutely insane, so I just disabled it entirely. 😬

Hey, I'm looking for an estimate on this build if I decide to just toss it out so it stops collecting dust here. 😬

Motherboard: Asrock P45DE
CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K
RAM: 4GB DDR2 (2x2GB) Kingmax (1066MHz)
GPU: ECS 8800GT 512mb DDR3
HDD: 320GB (no clue what model)
PSU: CORSAIR 650W, Corsair RM750x case : NZXT H510
Case: Antec Three Hundred

Can you give me a breakdown by component? Also, how much extra could I get for an EVGA RTX 3060, (FX-785A-CDJ4) Core edition, Dual Fan Cooling?

Roger Mitchell4 said:So pre-built setups are just totally off the table?

Are you saying there isn't a single decent pre-built out there?

And regarding what The New Guy suggested—if you ask those guys at Best Buy to put it together for you, they’ll hand you a finished machine. Most shops offer assembly for free (well, not all of them), so obsessing over a "pre-configured" build is just unnecessary. 😉

Larry Ortiz5 said:That's fairy tale stuff. Even if it were true, you really think the cops are going to kick down someone's door just because of one software program? Don't sweat it..

The police aren't raiding a residential user's house, sure, but an IRS audit or a business inspection? Yeah, they'll show up... and hit them with a massive fine.😬

Douglas Bennett said:It’s a waste since I already bought the motherboard. I have no idea if that 4690K will even work on it. Can anyone tell me how much better it actually is compared to the Intel Core i5-4670, and how much worse it is than an i7-4770k?

It’s not just about the gap between the Intel Core i5-4670 and the Intel Core i5-4690K. It’s about the board itself. Having the 9 chipset instead of the 8 gives you more perks, like being able to eventually jump to Broadwell processors if you need to down the road... but honestly, you missed the mark even with this one.😉

You didn't mention if you're looking for a monitor too...

It’s like trying to build a house on quicksand. You think you have a solid foundation, but then everything just sinks. analogtiger19 says:
What kind of future are we looking at here? They aren't making the Ryzen 7 anymore, and Intel will probably drop the 1151 socket sometime in 2015.

I was talking about the value of the CPU on one hand and the socket longevity on the other. Sure, AM3+ is a dead end, but with the 1150 platform, you've still got Haswell coming next year.
So, will an old Ryzen 7 or an i5 actually hold up for the next five years? I’m picking five years just as a random benchmark, mostly because my old C2Q 8200 lasted me over five years and still handled most games without breaking a sweat.

The New Guy analogtiger19 said:It’s a relative question because it all depends on what you're actually doing with the rig—what software are you running, which games? If you need an all-rounder for things like rendering and heavy gaming, go with the Ryzen 7. But if you're strictly gaming and planning to drop the same amount on both parts, stick with an Intel combo. An i5 might squeeze out some extra FPS in certain titles if you pair it with a high-end GPU. Then again, that Ryzen 7 is way more cost-effective. It's the better value.

The question was strictly about a gaming rig. It was meant to spark some discussion, not to start an argument over what to buy. (Thanks for the links.)😉)

I'm pretty much on the same page as most of you here—for actual gaming, an i5 is going to crush any Ryzen 7 or whatever AMD equivalent they're pushing lately.

Which setup looks better for the long haul? I’m not actually buying anything right now; I just want to hear your thoughts based on everything these builds bring to the table—power draw, thermals, noise levels, all of it. For the sake of argument, let's assume both options cost the exact same amount in USD.

ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2
AMD FX-Series X8 8350
Cooler master Hyper 212

or

ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 Intel Core i5-4670K Spira Kepler Rev
Intel Core i5-4670K
Spire Kepler Rev.2

Since I'm specifically asking about these two setups, don't go suggesting other changes just because you think a different combo is "better" or cheaper. 😉

Larry Ortiz5 said:If you're hell-bent on buying a cheap power supply, just go for this one. Click. Or. $13 It’s more expensive, but it's definitely the better choice. Click. I could throw in an even cheaper power supply, but honestly, I’d rather play it safe than deal with the regret later.

Fortron Hexa is decent if you're looking at the price point. Any case? Doesn't really matter what it looks like.

What's the cheapest power supply option to run this setup? A case works too, if that's the budget move. 😬

Intel C2Q Q8200
Asrock P45D
2x2gb ram
ECS 8800GT 512mb
320gb hdd

When I say cheapest, I mean bottom-of-the-barrel cheap—just enough to keep things running under "normal" conditions, not pushing it through a marathon stress test. 😉

Timothy Kim60 said:Latest Nvidia leaks

Did you actually link to this page? 😂 😉

Robert Ortiz58 said:...and at IGN, his entire warranty is capped at 2 years...

I've been wondering about this for a while, but wasn't sure where to bring it up. What’s the deal when one shop offers a 2-year warranty on an item, while six other shops offer that exact same product with a 3-year warranty? My understanding was always that the manufacturer handles the warranty and the retailer just "passes it along," but then this whole thing doesn't add up. Is this one shop just arbitrarily cutting the coverage, or are those other six basically backing the warranty themselves? 🤷

If this is totally off-topic, can a moderator please move this to the right section? 😉

This kind of rhetoric reminds me a bit of how Etralknight used to talk, back before they vanished from the forum about four months ago... 😬

fadedorca66 said:Sure, it could happen, but then again, that's just how electronics work. Even something brand new can fry in two or three years. 😁

But if it's running fine, there's no reason to swap it out since it's a solid unit.

Haha, I think we're talking past each other here... I get that a new part can die after a week, but you don't go into it expecting that kind of immediate failure because the odds are slim. That's why I used the word "expect" in my question—it was more of a casual thought. 😁

steelsailor3 said:If I were you, I'd just stick to a USB 3.0 front panel. Way less headache.

Look, I know that's the path of least resistance, but it's just not what I'm looking for.🙄

Too bad I'm not in the States; if I were, Corsair support would probably just mail me the whole panel for the price of shipping 😬 ...yeah, real top-tier customer service there. 😍

fadedorca66 said:You can just leave it be.

So, I shouldn't expect this thing to kick the bucket in two or three years? 😬

It’s been quiet in here lately, but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

So, I’m rocking a Corsair Series case and I'm wondering if there's a way to swap out one of those old USB 2.0 front ports for a USB 3.0 one if I upgrade my motherboard. What kind of gear would I actually need to pull that off? I'm a total newbie at this, so any advice helps. 😉

I've got an "old" Corsair 650 w, specifically the HX Series CMPSU-650HXEU, running in my current setup. If I decide to upgrade, can I just hang onto this thing, or is it basically a relic at this point? Is it done for?

P.S. This power supply has been pulling duty since October 2009.

amberotter19 said:Good grief, I can't believe that was the response to such a question... It isn't just about changing your resolution; everything else plays a massive role too. You have to consider the specific game you're running, the level of detail required, and obviously, the power of your graphics card. Honestly, this whole debate feels like a complete waste of time... at this rate, you'll be lucky if you even hit 37.2 fps.

Sure, I was just "helping out" with the math.😉