Anyone still running Windows 7?

casualdriver83 said:thanks, I'll give it a shot... but which one should I actually go with? I can't really play any games, so I don't need anything high-end, just stuff for streaming movies and whatever else online

just grab the ultimate version.👍 I've been running it on 1GB of RAM for a year now and everything works fine, though you probably ought to pick up a decent graphics card at some point👍

Noah Sanchez39 said:Microsoft Multimedia Hardware

The latest driver update was two months ago. Did you actually download it yet?

You got cash on you or are you looking for a handout? 😁
Joking aside, I run Avast, works fine for me 🙂

Look, I’ve tried everything. Old drivers, new ones, this one from the link, the original stuff on the CD... it keeps crashing Windows. I’ve tried every trick in the book, but it just won't work.😕

It might work once, then after maybe 10 or 15 restarts, it just vanishes.😕
Or it won't even start the first time—it shows up, then disappears again, just total nonsense. 😵

What kills me is that when it *is* working, everything is perfect. The driver doesn't just quit mid-session, it only happens when I reboot the PC.🤷

I'd say there's something wrong with the card itself, but if I send it in for warranty, I'm almost 100% sure they'll just ship it back saying it's perfectly fine.🤷

Maybe my crazy motherboard is screwing with it. What should the voltage on a PCI-E port actually be? I'm seeing some weirdness there; it keeps jumping between 700mV and 900mV depending on the settings. Might be a glitch there. 🤷

I'm thinking about switching it from "auto" to manual. Any idea what the voltage should actually be set to?

Douglas Garcia52 said:Just grab the Ultimate version.👍 I've been running it on 1GB of RAM for a year now. Everything works fine, though I probably should pick up a decent graphics card at some point. 👍

Is Ultimate really the heavy hitter among these? I downloaded a bundle containing all the versions, so I can just pick one—that part isn't an issue. But honestly... if Ultimate is the best bet for streaming movies and stuff online, I’ll just grab that one and call it a day.

casualdriver83 said:is Ultimate really the heaviest one? I downloaded all the different versions at once so I can just pick one if I want, so that's fine, but... if Ultimate is supposedly the best for browsing and movies, I guess I'll just grab that.

I don't know exactly which one eats up the most resources, but Ultimate is definitely near the top. Maybe Professional is actually better than Ultimate, but who knows? I haven't even touched it, so I'm just guessing. Honestly, for gaming, streaming, or just surfing the web, it doesn't really matter—any of them will get the job done.

If you've already got all the installers sitting there, just try them out and see which one actually feels right for what you're doing. 👍

stormybadger8 said:I can't tell if my motherboard is just messing with me or what. What should the voltage on the PCI-E port even be set to? Things are getting weird—it keeps jumping between 700mV and 900mV on its own depending on certain settings. Might be some kind of glitch somewhere.🤷

Maybe I should stop using "auto" and just set it manually. Any idea what the ideal voltage would be?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...id=3449#manual (pp. 42, 43)

says

"PCI Express Clock Drive
Allows you to adjust the amplitude of the PCI Express and North Bridge clock.
Options are: 700mV, 800mV, 900mV (default), 1000mV."

So just play around with the values and see what works.

casualdriver83 said:Is Ultimate actually the heaviest one? I downloaded an all-in-one pack so I can pick whatever I want—not really a huge deal—but still... if Ultimate is supposedly the best for streaming and movies, then that's what I'll grab.

http://www.microsoft.com/windows/win...e/default.aspx

Ultimate 🙂

Man, I just picked up a new laptop—an MSI, though honestly, that’s kind of beside the point right now—and I’m pretty annoyed with the setup because it came with a US layout. It doesn't bother me too much personally, but since the US layout isn't even installed properly, I’m basically playing a guessing game trying to figure out where all the symbols are located, if you know what I mean. Does anyone know how I can actually change the settings so the keyboard input actually matches what’s printed on the keys? Thanks.

Switching to the US layout 🙂

Noah Sanchez39 said:Change your keyboard layout 🙂

So, how am I supposed to figure out which layout my keyboard is actually using? Like, what should I even set as the default? Some of my keys aren't even doing what they're supposed to—for example, when I hit the "@" key, I get a double quote instead, and vice versa. Does anyone have any bright ideas on how to tell them apart?

If you're using the US layout, you'll see US indicated in the bottom right of the Taskbar; once you switch over to English, it'll show up as EN-US or EN-US

Or just stick with EN

Noah Sanchez39 said:If you're stuck on the US layout, you'll see the language code down by the Taskbar on the bottom right; once you switch over to English, it should show up as EN-US or maybe EN-US if you've got different regional settings set up.

I'm a guy, thanks though.😂

Since I don't even have any special American characters on my keyboard, I highly doubt I'm actually on the US layout! It’s not even that big of a deal, honestly, it just drives me crazy when I have to hunt for certain keys because the "@" and the "\"" symbols are all swapped around or something. Oh, and I also caught that infamous KB 971033 update—I'm guessing you know exactly which headache I'm talking about and how to scrub it from the system entirely. You don't exactly strike me as a hardcore Windows 7 enthusiast, but hey, I don't think the OS is actually that bad, you know?

dustybear9 said:Since I don't have an American keyboard sitting here, I'm guessing it isn't a US layout

Look, your Windows keyboard layout settings and the actual physical keys on your board aren't actually linked—at all. You could install a Chinese layout on your PC while using an Arabic keyboard, but good luck actually typing anything useful. 😁 If you're rocking a standard US keyboard but have the wrong software layout selected, you're basically flying blind unless you physically relabel the keys to match where the symbols actually live. There’s no magic workaround for that.

Quote : The Best F1

Noah Sanchez39 said:Check out the manual for this Gigabyte Pro series board here: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...id=3449#manual (str. 42, 43)

says

PCI Express Clock Drive
You can tweak the amplitude for both the PCI Express and the North Bridge clocks here.
You've got four ways to play this: 700mV, 800mV, 900mV (which is what you get by default), or 1000mV. Pick one.

So, go ahead. Mess around with the values. See what happens.

Look, I get that I can change it, but I have no clue what the "standard" value is supposed to be. What’s actually considered normal here? I'm a little paranoid that if I plug in some random number, I'll end up frying my motherboard or the TV tuner card.🤷

I'm honestly too terrified to even touch the thing. You really think it's safe to mess with those voltage settings? Like, there's zero chance I'll end up bricking the whole setup?🤷

stormybadger8 said:Look, I know I can tweak this, but I have no clue what the "standard" value should actually be. What's considered "normal"? I'm honestly worried that if I pick the wrong setting, I'll end up frying the motherboard or the TV tuner card.🤷

I’m almost afraid to even touch it. You think it's actually safe to mess with these voltages? Like, zero chance of something going south?🤷

"Options are: 700mV, 800mV, 900mV (default), 1000mV."

In my opinion, you aren't going to damage the card. The manufacturer tested it using these specific voltage levels, so it's designed to work with at least one of them. 😁

Anyone know how to fix this mess?😕

My user acc has admin rights and no password set, but Windows keeps kicking me out like I've been logged off or something.🤷

The screen just says "Administrator Locked"😕

It’s driving me nuts. If I leave a program running to finish a task, Windows hits me with this mode and the program just dies mid-way through.😢

How do I turn this crap off?🤷

wake

"Change when the computer sleeps": This is where you set how long it takes for the screen to go dark or the PC to enter sleep mode.

"Require a password when the computer wakes": Just select "Don't require a password" here.

Noah Sanchez39 said:First, just type "wake" (no quotes)

"Change when the computer sleeps": this controls how long until the screen turns off or the PC naps.

"Require a password when the computer wakes": pick "Don't require a password"

That’s not even the issue here. 🤷

My settings are already dialed in like this:

Sleep: never
Password: no
Hard Disk: never

But my PC still goes into that "Locked" mode anyway.😕

The only thing I have set is the screen timeout at 20 minutes.🤷
So why can't the PC stay active while the monitor is dark? Or am I missing something else that's broken? 🤷

🤷

Mine used to get > too—basically, if I didn't touch the thing for a little while, the PC would just go to sleep on me.

Checking "Don't require a password" fixed that headache right up. 🙂

That's just off 🤷

The only thing is I didn't have a password. I just set one up, so maybe that'll fix something, but I honestly can't figure out where to disable this locking feature. Is this actually not a sleep mode issue, or is it 😕