Bradley Scott2 said:I wouldn't mess with the building permit issue right now. You're a co-owner of the property, so it's in your best interest to get this settled.
You need to start making noise with formal letters to everyone involved. Send a follow-up to the health department demanding they confirm exactly what the inspector said in their response. Write to the state agency, file a complaint against the health department's handling of it. Send a notice to the testing company—tell them they messed up and demand a correction, otherwise you'll sue through the Chamber of Commerce, report them for corruption, call the local news, blah blah blah...
Basically, everyone needs to kick up a little fuss. That's usually how I handle these kinds of headaches.
Thanks for the tip... we might actually try that approach. We honestly suspect the inspector herself might be dirty, because her first instinct was to shut us down before we could even complain—claiming there's no way the testing firm messed up since they wouldn't risk their license and all that nonsense. She tried saying we were just being subjective about the noise or that the laws are full of loopholes. Then she had the nerve to say the testing fee would be a waste since the results are questionable, but now, at our last meeting, she's claiming there aren't even any experts available to settle the dispute, so instead, she plans to just call the company and ask them to "fix" their controversial conclusion and issue a new rating without even mentioning the specific regulation in question.
So, the building doesn't actually have a permit yet—it’s stuck in some bureaucratic limbo trying to get legalized. Which process are we even talking about canceling? We sent an official complaint to the health inspectors, but honestly, we're still just sitting around waiting for a response that hasn't come. The whole issue is that this restaurant used those specific reports to get their operating license in the first place. Should we try bothering the Chamber of Commerce? Probably not, since they'll just point us right back to the health department, which is the same group that ordered the measurements and then used the results to shut down the violation proceedings.
The "error" here is pretty simple: the measurements actually proved the floor/ceiling barrier doesn't meet the required soundproofing standards for commercial spaces. But then, the company wraps up their report by citing some obscure 1989 building code, twisting its meaning to claim the barrier passes regardless of what the actual numbers say. We asked other certified inspectors to weigh in on that specific clause, and they all basically said the same thing—that rule is for industrial plants, not a setup like this, and the raw measurement data is the only thing that actually matters for the rating. The health inspector handling the case is insisting there’s no way to prove one certification is valid and the other isn't if we just run the tests again. Honestly, it makes zero sense to me when the entire certification is being built on a regulatory loophole that has nothing to do with our situation.
It’s the same old story. You’ve got a bar or restaurant on the ground floor of an apartment building, and the folks living directly above are losing their minds over the noise. To stay compliant with local ordinances, the health department ordered a full suite of checks—measuring decibel levels, soundproofing quality, speaker wattage, all that fun stuff. But here’s where things get shady: the testing firm turned in a report that was essentially a "clerical error," a little mistake that somehow allows the venue to keep operating without actually installing any of the required soundproofing. We filed a formal complaint with the health inspectors demanding a re-test, but now we're stuck in this legal nightmare. Apparently, there's supposedly no way to challenge a fraudulent certificate because in the US, there isn't a neutral third-party expert who can step in to settle a dispute when two different tests yield conflicting results. So, the business keeps cranking the volume while the residents just have to deal with it. Is there any actual way to take this to court, and does anyone know a legal shark who specializes in this kind of mess?
I’m pretty much at the finish line now, and looking back, I can honestly say my pregnancy was a total breeze—well, except for the usual little hiccups. You know the drill: the minor aches, fighting off random bugs, putting on a few pounds, feeling wiped out... but if I had to pick the one thing that really drove me up the wall, it was definitely the heartburn 🙂
That was the one thing I just couldn't win against; even taking some Tums only offered a fleeting moment of peace before it came roaring back, and nothing else seemed to touch it. Normally, I could probably eat literal garbage and be fine—I've never had an issue with my stomach or digestion, and I didn't even deal with morning sickness. But this? This was absolutely killing me......
Does anyone happen to have this printer lying around and could spare a little advice? I just inherited this thing for work, but it showed up without any manuals or drivers. I managed to grab the drivers from the HP Color LaserJet Pro website and everything seems fine, except now I’m getting this annoying "88 low toner cyan" error message. The weird part is I can't find a single setting in the software that actually shows me the remaining toner levels; can anyone help me out? How am I supposed to know when it's actually time for a replacement or roughly how much juice is left in there?
rustysurfer79, I'm totally lost on what you're getting at here.
Jamie Ramos5, that works, I guess, but honestly that Xerox looks a little flimsy to me—I'm not a huge fan of all-in-one setups because they just feel so bulky, and since I’ve already got an inkjet combo sitting right there, I’m really just hunting for a straightforward laser printer. Lexmark seems alright. I can't find much info on their toner situation yet, though I'll probably spend some time digging around online.
What's the deal with HP's laser printers? I spotted an HP LaserJet Pro CP1025 in their lineup.
Let's just say my budget tops out around $1167.
And okay, this might be a pretty rookie question, but do they actually come with starter toners included, or am I going to have to buy those separately?
Help, help! After tossing my third inkjet out the window today—making it three in just four years—I’m seriously considering making the jump to a laser printer. I specifically need one that handles color.
The thing is, my job occasionally requires color prints, which is exactly why all my previous inkjets died on me; they just clog up every single time I try to use them. I’ve basically been throwing money down the drain on ink refills, head cleanings, trying to dissolve clogs, repair shops, or paying way too much at local print shops... it's just constant headaches.
I’ve been doing some digging online, but honestly, the more I look, the more confused I get. The guys at the repair shop where I usually take my gear are actually suggesting I look at older models—like, they think I should grab a used laser printer instead because apparently the toner capacity on those new ones you find at big-box stores is pathetic compared to the old stuff (mentioning things like an HP LaserJet Pro or a Lexmark).
I don't really care about the brand; I just want something dead simple to use with toner that won't break the bank. I don't need any fancy networking, faxing, or a thousand other useless features. I just want a machine that actually works when I need it to, without the toner costing as much as a used car and hopefully lasting more than five minutes.
I’m honestly not so sure about this whole emergency room thing, because back when I had a similar situation about two weeks ago, they wouldn't give me anything at all; instead, they just tried to shuffle me off to a gynecologist at the local hospital and told me she'd have to write the prescription... as if I actually had the luxury of time to wait around for that. 🙄
I'm a customer over at JP Morgan Chase, and I've got three different cards sitting there:
A VISA business Intel card linked to my USD checking account
A VISA web prepaid card
And a VISA Intel card tied to my foreign currency account
Their website's breakdown of fees and features is a total mess, so I'm reaching out—does anyone have any experience or advice on which of these three would be the smartest move if I need to use it abroad (like hitting up shops, registers, hotels, etc.)? I've got a quick trip coming up soon; I'll be carrying cash, but I’d really love to have a backup card just in case things get weird.
Ideally, I want the one that isn't going to absolutely murder me with international withdrawal fees. 😍
I've got an anesthesiologist in the family. From what I can gather, they basically get summoned every time someone else screws up... colleagues from other departments are constantly dumping their patients into the ICU on them, usually right when things get messy and complicated. I guess that says plenty about the actual quality, importance, and sheer weight of responsibility that comes with one of the toughest specialties in medicine...👍
I deal with the exact same thing, usually first thing in the morning, especially right before I head out on some high-stakes business trip—my stomach just knots up. It’s basically stress-induced diarrhea.
Some chewable tablets used to do the trick for me; my old man used to swear by them since he was always dealing with ulcers and kept a whole pharmacy of stomach remedies on hand... he told me they really settle things down, so I'll have to ask him exactly what they were.
I actually had my biggest win at Lidl when I picked up those massive XXL prawns; back at my local seafood market near the coast, they go for at least $67/kg, but at Lidl, they were only $20! I was super skeptical because anything that cheap—especially frozen stuff claiming to be from the North Atlantic—usually smells sketchy, but once I thawed them out, they had that legit, fresh sea breeze scent... cooked them up... and honestly? AMAZING. Now they're my go-to, because who’s to say the fancy fishmonger isn't just selling me the exact same thing while tossing a few twitching ones in the pile and claiming they were "caught this morning"? At the fish market, I only bother with the small, cheap stuff now. I used to avoid Lidl because their house brands felt a bit off to me, but after giving them a fair shake, I find myself shopping there way more often. One thing I've noticed about their setup is that they seem to focus on a smaller selection of high-quality goods, and whatever they put in their limited-time offers moves incredibly fast. If something isn't flying off the shelves, it hits a sale almost immediately, which keeps everything moving. What really gets under my skin about our big retail chains, especially Kroger where I used to shop a lot since they claim to be "local"... It's all second-rate stuff masquerading as premium, sold at premium prices. And when things don't sell, they just let them sit on the shelves until they're practically rotting, then they repackage them or slap a discount sticker on them... like, they'll take some wilted cabbage, peel off the outer layers in the back, and try to sell you the core as if it's fresh. Or rotten onions. It's even worse at Walmart.
copperjackal89 said:Look, those of us living inland get it too. By the way, the label says it's totan, but honestly, I doubt you holy people living by the coast could even tell the difference in taste between bad frozen squid and just bad frozen... well, anything else. 😉 Sure, that doesn't excuse manufacturers playing dirty, but the whole squid versus totan thing is such a textbook example.
God, I wasn't trying to insult anyone here... I just know most people don't even realize there's a different subspecies. It isn't even about how it tastes, it's more about the texture and how it looks; totan looks different and it's way tougher than actual squid. But whatever, let's move on—the point is that this "local" product ends up being more expensive and lower quality than the imports.
I was just wondering, what happens if someone can't swing a loan right now... (like in that scenario where you're trying to hit those savings targets to qualify for the Democratic Party payout regardless of whether you take out credit or not)... is it actually smarter to just withdraw the cash and then go ahead and lock in new contracts? I know someone mentioned this on here before, but I can't seem to track down the thread—is it better to just take the bank's offer to extend the contract, or should I let the savings period run its course and then start fresh with new agreements?
Well, that’s just brilliant! 😲 I honestly had no clue you could actually renovate and outfit property that isn't even yours 👍 Guess I can finally start looking into some other options now 😬
Just some off-topic thoughts here, but honestly, things are bound to shift eventually... permanent full-time gigs are probably going to become a thing of the past, and if banks like JPMorgan Chase want to stay in the game, they’ll have to pivot, which means we'll likely see a massive surge in mortgages and those typical American-style loans... but anyway, moving on...
...you're better off just borrowing from friends or family—it's basically interest-free. Or just sell some junk you've got lying around the house... there are plenty of ways to swing it. Do some side hustle work, manual labor, a quick repair... offer a service...