I think you might have misspoken again 😁 Are you actually saying this song is a "plagiarism" case and you're looking for the original track? Or maybe it's just too early in the morning for me to wrap my head around what you're getting at?
If you ask me—and again, this is just my two cents—you’re looking at a pretty old system here, and honestly, I don't think it's worth throwing more money at it. You've got a weak processor, so even if you drop in a slightly better graphics card, the CPU is just going to act as a bottleneck and hold everything back. If things are tight financially right now, my advice would be to just save up your cash and grab some brand-new components instead.
It’s just like they said in the message—you're running low on hard drive space... Is this happening with every single one of your Word documents, or is it just acting up with this specific one? Have you tried running a repair or maybe a full reinstall of Office yet?
What kind of processor are you running? If it isn't the K-series, I’d honestly just pick up a newer, "lower-spec" motherboard—meaning a cheaper one. I'm not talking about the absolute bare minimum, either; just a solid budget board. Since it looks like you've already snapped a pin on the USB 3.0 port, well... maybe just be a little more careful next time, right? Believe me, by the time you actually find someone to fix all this, you'll have wasted so much time and energy—plus, your computer will just be sitting there collecting dust in the meantime. So, I’m sticking to my guns: just grab a new budget board and call it a day.
That is honestly about the worst thing that can happen to a motherboard. It feels a bit silly, though—I mean, shouldn't the folks at the repair shop or the store where you dropped it off have just popped the CPU cooler off themselves to see what was actually going on, especially since it's still under warranty? 🤔 Also, I have to wonder about the person who originally built this rig for you—was he some kind of pro, or was it more of a "quick and dirty" job? If you didn't notice any bent pins on the board yourself, there's a chance he might have caused a short circuit, or maybe the board was just a lemon right out of the box. By the way, if you're thinking about trying to fix those pins yourself, Linus Tech Tips actually put out a video recently showing how to straighten them on Intel boards. It might be worth a look—who knows, you might actually pull it off...
This might be a bit of a silly question, but what actually happens when you log out? Does the data stay synced? I know there’s a setting somewhere within Google—I just need to track down exactly where it's tucked away...
To start, try reinstalling whatever web browser you're currently using—sometimes a fresh install does the trick. If that doesn't solve the issue, though, it might be time to give your local IT guy a call to come take a look.
rapidsailor10 said:Is there any way to run Ubuntu on top of Windows? Like, just running it as a program and then being able to uninstall it later? Is setting up Mint that easy—you just install it and then wipe it away when you're done—or is it a total nightmare?
It's exactly what wearymason4 was getting at in their last post.
Based on how you described everything, it sounds like those are just Linux-based extensions—which means Windows won't be able to open them since it doesn't recognize the file type or the specific folder where your photos are sitting. Honestly, the easiest way around this would be to grab a Linux Mint live USB, boot your computer from that, and then just dive into that folder to find your pictures. Once you're in, you could just create a new folder on the desktop and move them all over there.
By the way, you can always just check your BIOS version directly within the BIOS settings themselves 😁 If you’d rather use a little software to do the legwork, try grabbing CPU-Z. Once you get it installed, just head over to the "Mainboard" tab—it'll show you exactly which BIOS version you're running right there. Just thought I'd mention it for next time.
truant said:Hey everyone, could someone help me figure out the difference between these two cards? The MSI one is looking a bit cheaper to pick up...
ASUS ROG GTX 1050 Ti, 4GB GDDR5, DirectX 12 EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC, 4GB, DDR5, DVI, HDMI, DP
Thanks!
It's basically the exact same thing—just different packaging. Don't let all those fancy model names get in your head; one says "Gaming X" and the other says "OC," but it doesn't change much. Just grab whichever one is cheaper, or maybe take the one that comes with an extra year of warranty if that's an option.
darkmarlin16 said:Is there a free version of Windows 7 out there?
Well, you can grab a tool that lets you download any version of Windows 7 you’re looking for—once it's installed, you'll have a 30-day grace period to activate it. Now, you could try to find some workaround to bypass the activation, but honestly? My advice would be to just head over to eBay and pick up a product key for less than $10. It's totally legit, and it saves you all the headaches of messing around with sketchy activators... just search eBay for the specific Windows version you need. For example, here's one for Ultimate https://www.ebay.com/itm/Microsoft-W...YAAOSwZpRawIaS.
As for that Windows download link you wanted: https://www.heidoc.net/php/Windows%2...Downloader.exe
The key stays—honestly, I’ve no clue if Microsoft saved it via the cloud or whatever their system does, but either way, the key is logged and you don't have to worry about a thing.
It honestly takes longer than just formatting the hard drive—so, sure, go ahead and hit factory reset if you want, but keep in mind it won't wipe out any malware or junk files the way a full format would. Besides, you can find plenty of threads online suggesting you skip this step entirely... I mean, why waste your time? It drags on way longer than a standard format, and there’s really no logic to doing it that way.
Joshua Morgan58 said:This is how I should reinstall Windows 10, right? My laptop came pre-installed with Windows 10, so I'm a bit lost—how do I do this without losing my product key? Also, how can I split my hard drive into different partitions? Right now, it's just one big partition straight out of the box.
Honestly, don't bother with an "in-place" install like @Freyr suggested—that process can be a total headache. It's much cleaner to just wipe the hard drive and download a fresh copy of Windows using this tool https://www.heidoc.net/php/Windows%2...Downloader.exe Just a quick heads-up, though: make sure you download the exact same version of Windows 10 you're running right now. If you have the Home version currently and try to install Pro, your key won't work. As for the activation key itself, don't sweat it—it's tied to your hardware. Once you finish the installation and connect to the internet, Windows should activate itself automatically.