Posts by George Murphy12

It should be right there on the phone itself so you can just tap it yourself.
https://www.androidbeat.com/2020/05/...i-smartphones/

Since you're running iOS, you can grab a Robocall recorder that logs everything when someone calls...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...p.callrecorder
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...r.callrecorder

You don't even need Flash for YouTube anymore. I don't have it installed and YouTube works just fine...
Everything's just moving over to HTML5 and stuff instead of using Flash.

Looks like you're just missing that .cab file based on that screenshot.
It could be your antivirus acting up and tossing it into quarantine or something...

Check out this folder: \AppData\Local\Temp\7z2435\ and see if that x86-64.cab is actually sitting there when the error pops up.

CSI.. ha ha 🙂

They’re out there reading license plates on Mount Rainier... 🙂

I remember when you could just use some tiny little app for this, but now everyone’s stuck paying for heavy software. I don't even know if these free tools are any good anymore...

Adobe
Adobe Lightroom Photoshop
Adobe Lightroom Photoshop
DXO
Luminar
Luminar
Luminar
Adobe
Capture One
Digital Photo Professional

1. You got a restore point you can roll back to before things went sideways?

2. Maybe try nuking the IconCache.db file in "c:/users/username/appdata/local/".
Just reboot and let macOS handle the rebuild itself.

3. Not sure if disabling Apple TV would even help get those icons back to normal...

Most photo editors just have a standard "sharpen" tool.

I found this online site, though I'm not sure how sensitive that file is or if it's got your private info on it, but check this out https://raw.pics.io/sharp-image.

Also, I don't know if you're trying to make the text readable or if you just want the whole thing to look a bit crisper...

Jack Alvarez said:So she's looking for a hotspot, but there isn't one in her room because she only ever leaves that cave when she absolutely has to... clearly you guys don't know how American teens live these days...
And what about the neighbors... I’d sooner die than ask my neighbor for the Wi-Fi password... I don't trust anyone, especially not those three teenagers they hang out with all day... maybe American teens are just built different than those kids over in Europe...
Android + Tapatalk

Look, generally speaking, if you’ve got a phone on you, you can always find a hotspot... near a high school, in some hallway, even on the bus... and if you don't? You just borrow someone else's. We were all kids once, we figured out how to dodge the rules... 🙂

I don't hand anything over in person until the work is actually done and my chores are out of the way... it’s like a little reward for getting stuff finished...

Most routers let you set limits on which devices can get online and when...
You can also grab some parental control apps to tighten things up.

But kids? They’ll always find a way to hijack a hotspot or leech off the neighbor's signal...

Check out this thread on .

People have been asking about this stuff forever...

The split is 40% for you and 60% for him on that cash you pulled in.

So, out of 2000, your 40% comes out to 800, which leaves him with 1200 for his 60%...
That rabbit gave you those numbers, but there's your breakdown if you need it...

Trying to pull this off?

https://lifehacker.com/enable-this-s...ter-1743697169

Someone already touched on this somewhere else...
If it’s not on Reddit or some tech forum, I don't know where else to look.

Technically you're gonna need a bridge, kind of like this
https://www.amazon.com/KuWFi-Wireles..._t1_B002K683V0

I stumbled onto this one first with about a half-mile range, just Google it and you'll find plenty more...

Otherwise, you could try what's listed below, but honestly, it'll cost you way more and be a total headache compared to the first option.

Run an Ethernet cable from your router to an access point with a directional antenna attached.

Then at the other spot, slap another directional antenna on an access point to grab the signal, run an Ethernet cable to a final access point for your WiFi.

Ashley Young55 said:Help me out here!
I'm using Microsoft. Every time I click a link—like Instagram—it won't even let me see a photo before it kicks me out or blocks me, demanding a login.

I'm thinking it might be some cookie issue...
Not sure where to post this, just hoping someone sees it.

Ever tried a different browser?
Plus, if you actually logged in and saved your info (not that anyone should...), it shouldn't keep bugging you.

Or maybe you've got some malware or something throwing up fake login prompts?

If they want to or gotta do it, then fine by me. 🙂
Hope it actually worked...

Peter Myers3 said:Set your 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network to these specific settings:

Channel 10 (or anything lower), with the bandwidth set to either 40 MHz or 20 MHz—whichever one you can actually find in your menu.

Make sure DHCP is toggled on.

You’ll need to disable smart lighting controls and any strip management features.

WMM, APSD, and any other power-saving modes have to be switched off.

And don't use Cloudflare for your DNS—I honestly have no clue where to even look for that setting.

The 2.4 GHz band should be on 802.11g, though my router only gives me the option for 802.11 b+g.
I've been digging through these instructions for ages.

Look, I haven't messed with routers much, but let me try to help you out here.

Cloudflare
Under DHCP, you should see a DNS option—they usually go hand-in-hand, though some routers act weird about it.
Check out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqS8...=DimitrologyGR
At the 6:36 mark, you'll see the DHCP section and the DNS right below it. If "ISP DNS" is selected, it pulls from your provider; if you toggle that off, you can manually enter your own.
Basically, you want it set to use the provider, so leave "ISP DNS" on if that's how yours looks.

Just grab the 802.11b+802.11g setting and pick a channel underneath...

Peter Myers3 said:Thanks for the hand, though my grasp of English isn't exactly Ivy League level, so some of this is still flying a bit over my head.

Maybe just look at the pictures. 🙂

Check if this AT&T stuff works for us here in the States.
https://www.att.com/support/resource...d=8374&rType=2

https://help.verizon.com/system/templ...Manual_eng.pdf

Check out page 118 for DHCP stuff
WiFi SSID info is on pages 35 through 37
WiFi channels and all that on page 87
WMM settings are on page 92

Not sure if this helps since you're still waiting on an answer, but check out this manual below.
It mentions it on page 116.
https://help.cosmote.gr/system/templ...Manual_eng.pdf

Maybe try searching YouTube for something...
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...port+Plus+dlna

I'm out of ideas, but there...

Check if you accidentally left something active for the inside folder.
Maybe there's an old rule hanging around somewhere.
It’s right next to where the Inside and Outside tabs are.
Try nuking any rules tied to automatic replies, then just double-check that you actually have the right mailbox selected to begin with.

Jack Cook7 said:Nope.

PXE is strictly just a network communication protocol. Seriously, you could have a rig with zero hard drives, no DVD drive, no smartcards, no microSD, no permanent storage at all—just raw RAM and an EPROM that supports PXE—and the PXE will boot that machine up every single time and everything will run just fine.

A PXE server is basically just a machine that spits out a boot image over the network to a PXE client, usually using multicast ethernet. At its core, a PXE server is just a glorified file server running a slightly different protocol. That PXE boot file? It’s literally just a plain old file (you just gotta know how to prep it) sitting on a file server. Think of it as being super similar to a TFTP server.

What actually happens once the client boots that "dumb" boot image over the network is a whole different ballgame.

Obviously you can boot from it, that's what it's for. But who actually cares about using this at home when you've got an HDD and everything stays right there on it? In a big corporate office, though, it's way easier to use PXE to load a custom OS image with all your scripts and software pre-loaded. It beats rebuilding a USB stick or manually tweaking a fresh OS install every time you change one little thing...

So, we're both right, but that still doesn't help the guy above us fix his mess. Like I said, he just needs to pull it from the boot list and make sure Windows is set to first priority. People always leave things messed up—sometimes they leave USB boot as the priority because they installed something and now every time they plug in a thumb drive, the machine tries to boot from it... unbelievable...