Posts by Megan Newman3

If you check the websites for the post office or any bank that handles Western Union, they list the commission fees right there.

The bottom line is you need dollars instead of euros 🙂

Yeah, they both work fine.
JPMorgan Chase is cheaper since they don't charge for foreign currency account maintenance, and unlike Bank of America, they don't hit you with a fee from $2.50 when receiving an incoming wire.

Dana Hughes3 said:Honestly, it feels pretty ridiculous that a major player like JPMorgan Chase doesn't have that feature yet, but hey, I guess we're stuck with it...
tnx

It’s just their internal policy.

Most banks offering online VE are actually in the minority.

I’ve already said this, but here we go again
I got my Zabina high voltage card just two months ago. It has a CVV, sure, but you still can't use it for anything online. If you want proof, go ask at JPMorgan Chase or call the Zabina support line—they'll tell you the same thing I am.

rapidseal44 said:You probably just misunderstood her. It's unlikely she's so clueless about her own job every single day.
She was likely talking about online banking, where you can pay bills or transfer funds from your Visa Intel card—essentially your foreign currency account, similar to how you'd handle your USD account... and so on.

If we've already established that the lady was right and that you can pay online through any major US bank that supports it, why are you still talking nonsense?

vividmaker82 said:I have opened an account at Goldman Sachs...

Hopefully you actually requested Intel, because I’m not sure if they even offer it by default.

Dennis Doyle50 said:Hmm... 🤔 No, I don't have a security code! I'll just open a foreign currency account at JPMorgan Chase; that seems like the safest bet. When I pay online, I just enter the card number and the other details, right? I won't need a card reader or anything?
I assume I won't get the physical card right away—probably takes about two weeks to process—but I can start using it for online shopping immediately since all I need is the number, right?

You don't need a reader, just the card itself. You should have it in about ten days to two weeks.
You can't do anything without the actual card because you'll need the number, the expiration date, and that three-digit security code on the back.
If you want to buy stuff on eBay, PayPal, pay customs, use Moneybookers, or deal with Intel, there are specific threads over on Finance where you can get the full rundown.

@vividmaker82: the answers are yes.

Dennis Doyle50 said:So, let’s brainstorm: what kind of cards can you actually use for online shopping if you don't have a credit card? Specifically, I'm looking for options available to a student who doesn't have a steady stream of income yet.

I've already mentioned this, and it comes up in the finance threads too, specifically regarding PayPal and Moneybookers...
JPMorgan Chase and Goldman Sachs offer Visa debit cards. (They need to have that three-digit security code on the back)
Some people mentioned Bank of America, but I'm not 100% sure about that one.

Dennis Doyle50 said:I have one more question... A few years back, I opened a checking account at JPMorgan Chase while I was working a student job. The card I received was an Intel debit card. I know I used it to make purchases a few times back then—entering my PIN after swiping—but I haven't touched it in years because I primarily use my current debit card along with my Diners and Amex credit cards. Now I’m wondering, can I actually use that old JPMorgan Chase Intel card for online shopping?

I’m looking to order a few things online this week, and while I know using credit cards is perfectly secure, I’d feel much better if I just transferred a couple thousand dollars onto that specific JPMorgan Chase account. It feels safer to me to limit the funds available for those transactions so, is that actually possible to do online?

If there's a security code on the back, you're good to go. Honestly, though, since it's tied to a basic checking account, I'm not sure how smart it is to use it for heavy shopping, given what that account is meant for.
Just open a foreign currency account at Goldman Sachs and grab a debit card (one-time $6.75 fee)—there are no monthly maintenance fees.

vividmaker82 said:It seems nobody actually knows the specific requirements. What is the minimum balance required for a foreign currency account at JPMorgan Chase?

Is it really that hard to just call the free info line at JPMorgan Chase?
By the way, the monthly fee for a foreign currency account at JPMorgan Chase is $1.75 per month
while Wells Fargo doesn't charge one.

vividmaker82 said:I find myself wondering if the chips on the cards issued by JPMorgan Chase are just more of the same useless nonsense.

Exactly. Both the Intel microchip setup for foreign currency accounts and the business version tied to checking accounts work just fine.

vividmaker82 said:Which bank allows for online purchases using an Intel card?

Chase or Wells Fargo with VE—works every time.
Bank of America or Citi with VE? Forget about it.

amberpanther57 said:I’ve heard that even with cards from places like Chase or Goldman Sachs, you can run into some annoying hiccups here and there, but personally, I stick with Citibank. Before I even opened my account, I made sure to check in with some veteran players to see what they thought, and everyone pointed me toward Citibank. So far, every single one of my transactions has gone through without a hitch, so I can definitely vouch for using their Visa card for all my online betting needs.

Even with DraftKings, you can't use an RBA Visa for online payments.
Citibank and Goldman Sachs work fine. Personally, I lean toward Goldman Sachs since they don't charge fees for foreign currency accounts.

amberpanther57 said:You definitely can. I personally use my Citibank Intel card linked to my foreign currency account all the time for deposits and withdrawals at various online sportsbooks and PayPal accounts. As long as your card has that three-digit CVV2 code on the back, you should be good to go without any issues!

But just because they have a card doesn't mean it works for online shopping. For instance, someone might have a card from a local credit union, but it's basically useless for anything digital.

Frank Rodriguez85 said:Look, you can't really use an Intel debit card as a credit card—if that's even the right way to put it—so it won't work for that purpose...

You could try using something like PayPal or Moneybookers... or whatever other third-party services they happen to support. But honestly, if you’re planning on depositing anything remotely substantial—say, at least $100—it’s probably not worth your while because those transaction fees will absolutely eat you alive.

Oh, and you could technically try a wire transfer, but there's a catch: banks can be real sticklers about that since you're dealing with a sportsbook. They aren't exactly supposed to be sending money abroad for that kind of thing (legal restrictions and all that...), so whether it goes through or not really just depends on how much of a headache the teller decides to give you that day...

If you ask me, the easiest and least painful way to handle this is to just find someone who already has some cash sitting in their MB account and settle up with them directly.

I haven't seen a thread packed with this much wrong info in a long time.
With a debit card, specifically an Intel card (the kind with the security code from banks like Citibank or Goldman Sachs that allow online transactions), you can easily pay at most major sportsbooks, use PayPal, or handle deposits and withdrawals through services like MoneyGram or AlertPay.

Using PayPal or MB isn't expensive at all; if anything, the fees are tiny. PayPal doesn't charge for payments, and with MB, it's just 1% or a flat 50 cents regardless of how much you're moving.

Eric Phillips2 said:I've got a student checking account and I was wondering about something.

I heard that when someone wants to deposit money into a checking account using a standard paper check or a general payment slip, there might be two different ways to handle it:

a) you put the bank's routing and account number under the recipient's account field, and then just list my specific checking account number in the memo line

b) or, you just put my actual account number directly into the recipient field and leave the memo line completely blank

I guess I'm just curious if both methods work just as well, and if they do, maybe someone could let me know which way they'd suggest I use?

?
It doesn't matter what kind of Zaba fan you are or how you send it; you just put the recipient's account number in the account field.
Basically: Bank Routing Number + Your Account Number.

As for the "Model" or "Reference" fields—if they aren't specifically required on the form—you've got options:
Leave them blank.
If you put "99" in the model field, the reference line becomes irrelevant.
Or, just put "00" in the model field (or leave it empty) and type whatever you want in the reference line, like a date, because nobody actually checks that part anyway.

Comprehensive and collision coverage:
Had a good run with the USA (though they'll definitely charge you an arm and a leg)
Also had solid experiences with Generali and Allstate

Jeremy Diaz9 said:I’d say give it about two or three hours, regardless of which banks are involved... though if it's just moving money between two different accounts at JPMorgan Chase, it'll probably show up in 22 seconds....
I guess business transactions typically clear within two hours if they're submitted before noon; otherwise, you might be looking at the next business day.......

That’s not really how it works when you're transferring money from a different bank.

urbangardener said:So I finally knocked out my first two bills yesterday using my Goldman Sachs online banking... just handled my life insurance and my cell phone bill...

Honestly, it’s such a relief compared to wasting half my afternoon driving down to a local branch... plus, the fees are actually $0.33...

But now I'm kind of stressing about how I'm supposed to prove I actually paid them if someone asks? Like, back when you'd go into a physical bank, they'd stamp that little paper receipt right there, so if anyone tried to give me grief about an unpaid bill, I had the hard proof in my hand...

How am I even meant to show proof doing it this way? I remember my old man dealing with those annoying situations where the phone company would call the house claiming he missed a payment, even though he totally paid it... it was always just one big "he said, she said" mess...

I did get an email confirmation saying the payments went through, and there was some toll-free number listed where I could call to double-check that everything processed correctly... but I didn't bother calling because I figured it's probably fine...

Does the online portal show a transaction history? Can you request an official confirmation—though they’ll probably charge you for it—if you ever need to prove something?

Ronald Price36 said:If you don't have your transaction history handy, just file an amendment request with support.

If you actually have your transaction history, you might as well bang your head against a wall.🙂
Your only real move is to close that MB account and start fresh. Just a heads up though—if you had your bank account linked, they won't release it for use with a new MB account immediately, and any credit cards you had saved won't work with the new one either.

Just trying to save everyone from a massive, pointless email chain with MB support.

Screw their currency system.

Quick update: after fighting them tooth and nail, they finally let me use the same bank account and credit cards I had on my old account.