Posts by Noah Thompson

thanks for the suggestion 🙂

and as for mining, I know prices have spiked big time too...

Adam Moore3 said:Grehota, aiming for just a 1050Ti in a gaming build costing over $800 is a mistake. In my opinion, you should save money (in this order) on the case, the SSD, and the power supply—you could even ditch the optical drive since you probably don't need it—to squeeze in a GTX 1060 6 instead. Also, don't shop at Best Buy unless you're using a payment plan.

crimsonstag84 put together a killer build for just over $700 in that other thread. You should take a page out of that book, especially since you have extra wiggle room to beef things up wherever you saved cash.

A budget of $2667 paired with a 1050Ti is a NO-GO, regardless of how early you're shopping.

Kimberly Gomez34 said:That RAM isn't meant for a desktop PC.

Futur IT Shopping Cart

1 x AMD Ryzen 5 6C/12T 1600 (3.4/3.6GHz Boost,19MB,65W,AM4) box
1 x ASRock AB350 PRO4, AM4
1 x MSI GeForce GTX 1060 GDDR5 6GB/192bit, ARMOR
1 x Seagate HDD, 1TB, 7200rpm, SATA 6, 64M
1 x CRUCIAL MX500 250GB SSD, 2.5” 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter), SATA 6 Gbit/s, Read/Write: 560 MB/s / 510 MB/s, Random Read/Write IOPS 95K/90K
1 x Zalman Z1, USB3.0 black, 2x120mm
1 x Fortron napajanje Hexa 85+ 550W, 80+ Bronze, ATX
1 x Patriot Elite DDR4, 2666Mhz, 16GB, CL16 (po serijskom broju kit 2x8)

Total: $2751, includes free assembly and shipping

Alright. So would this be a better option?

Though I think I'll go with a 500GB SSD regardless... 😁

So it's definitely better to grab the GTX 1060 in any case.

Plus the case is... 🕺

Maybe I'll just pick up something used or whatever.

Thanks 🙂

Amy Vaughn12 said:You really ought to specify what you're planning to use this for, don't you think?

analogtiger19 said:It's labeled a "gaming build," so you'd assume games are the main priority... but honestly, people call anything anything these days.😁

First thing's first: gaming... 😁

Hey,

what do you guys think of this:

Intel Core i5-7600K box
ASROCK AB350 Pro4 motherboard
16 GB Patriot Signature SO-DIMM PC-17000, DDR4 2133Mhz
500.0 GB SAMSUNG 850 EVO Basic SSD
Samsung DVD Writer, 24x, SATA, Dual layer, black, bulk
750W EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, ATX Power Supply Standard, 120mm fan, 80+ Gold
SAMA ARK high-end ATX Power Supply Standard, Full Tower Case
GAINWARD Radeon RX 560, 4GB, DDR5, DVI, HDMI, DP

$2775

can I do better than this, or anyone got some suggestions for changes?

thanks

Hey

Is it even worth grabbing a prebuilt for under $2000 if we aren't factoring in any discounts?

What’s the consensus on this one: https://walmart.com/product/hpc-ni...00-gtx-1050ti/

thanks

alright. thanks 👍

hey,

anyone know which stores around here have the best deals and actually take Diners if I want to split a PC purchase into 24 interest-free installments?

thanks

John Clark6 said:You know, you might actually be right there—it seems like the whole goal for Americans has always been to find ways to dodge obligations and just wait for the clock to run out...

look, don't get me wrong, I pay my taxes on time.
I'm just saying the reality on the ground is a different story altogether.

John Clark6 said:Well, I suppose you could say they're handing out favors to citizens again—mostly because, at this point, most people don't even really need legal counsel regarding statutes of limitations anymore anyway!

I wouldn't say it's a win for the public. Honestly, I think most people would actually prefer the statute of limitations to kick in sooner rather than later. 😛
plus, it just gives the IRS more time to trigger an audit much later down the road and rack up a massive amount of interest.

just for context, the window for things like phone bills or similar stuff seems about right...

but pushing this tax thing out to 6 years? that's way too long...

They're just looking for any excuse to squeeze out more unpaid taxes....

Hey,

So, I've got this Dell laptop that isn't even a year old, and out of nowhere, the keyboard just quit on me. The touchpad is fine, but literally none of the keys are responding. I don't know the exact model off the top of my head, if that matters, but it's running Windows 7 ultimate sp1 and there aren't any error messages popping up... It’s still under warranty, but I was wondering if there's anything I can try myself before dragging it all the way to a repair shop. It hasn't been dropped or anything... honestly, it's basically in mint condition.

thanks

thanks a lot 🙂

fair point, that fridge was a beast, and it cost me an arm and a leg back in the day. probably the most expensive thing I ever bought...

anyone interested in taking it off my hands? 🙂

Is that a bit light for a case?

I figured I could snag $167 once the new ones hit the shelves for $333.

Think I could ask $1333 for the whole setup?

Hey,

Looking for an estimate on this build:

Intel Core i5 2500k with Zalman CNPS10X Extreme and ASRock Z68 Extreme4
Zalman CNPS10X Extreme
ASRock Z68 Extreme4
8GB RAM
MSI Geforce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr III, 1GB
Samsung 840, 120GB
XFX 850 w Pro
Thermaltake Chaser MK-1
Razer BlackWidow mechanical keyboard

Everything works perfectly. Only the SSD is still under warranty; everything else is out of luck...

thanks

Turns out the black cartridge actually kicked in, so printing is back to normal now. Swapped out the little rubber seal on the cartridge where the ink flows through and that did the trick.

Not sure if this thing is actually clogged or what.
I've got an Epson bx305f with four cartridges; three are printing fine, but the black one is acting up. If I crank the settings to photo quality, the black comes out solid, just really faded... but when I stick to normal print mode, the black looks all streaky and broken. Not sure how to fix this mess. I'm using refillable cartridges that work on my old Epson sx125...

thanks

Frank Barnes said:That’s like trying to scrub burnt grease off an oven door using nothing but Windex.

So yeah, there's no magic potion.

I mean, sure, you could find one, but you'll probably just melt the plastic in the print head or eat through the heaters... why risk it? You really ought to stick to the same brand for both the ink and the cleaning solution. They're designed to work together. The guys who engineered the ink know exactly what it takes to dissolve it without wrecking the hardware. They aren't exactly looking to spend their time figuring out how to clean someone else's mess...

Not exactly a helpful answer... my question was pretty straightforward, so if it's too much to wrap your head around, maybe just skip it.

Hey,

what kind of fluid actually works for cleaning print heads? I'm trying to figure out if the stuff meant for cleaning glass is any good for this...

thanks

Just read somewhere they’re filming a new movie about this 😁

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2096672/

they changed the code to: giveme5