Patrick Garcia4 said:I just don't know where you're going to find two identical 6850s around here. I was actually looking to pick up 2 x MSI TwinFrozr 3 GTX 560 cards, but they're nowhere to be found. I even tried checking other brands like ASUS, but nothing. 😢
Even the MSI 560s aren't showing up at any of the major retailers... They do have the 570 and 580 TF2 in stock, but man, those prices are brutal... 😲
Hey there, I’ve been using Google Sheets quite a bit, and while I can deal with most of its quirks, I’m totally stumped on this one. Not even sure if it’s possible, but figured I'd ask you guys🙂
So, here’s the deal...
On Sheet 1, I have names and weights (let's say there are 4 people entered)
On Sheet 2, I have team names and a total weight (say, 2 people per team, and their weights get added up)...
And when I put a formula on Sheet 2 to pull the weights from Sheet 1 and sum them up, everything works perfectly fine...
But, the second I sort Sheet 1 by weight... Like, largest to smallest? Suddenly, the weights on Sheet 2 start shifting around. Since the formula is tied to specific cells in Google Sheets rather than the actual values, it breaks. Is there any way to sort Sheet 1 without messing up Sheet 2? Basically, how do I lock onto a specific value so that even if its position changes, the formula follows it?
darkowl72 said:For anyone looking, here’s a handy little cross-reference table covering basically every power supply imaginable—including the ones that shouldn't exist. It even tracks the max 12V combo wattage:
Raymond Adams48 said:My graphics card finally arrived, but I really need to give a "shout out" to the guys at Protis for being so incredibly helpful—and maybe warn future customers too. Basically, I ordered the card over the phone on Friday for $195 . I call them yesterday and the guys are all smiles, telling me the card is ready and waiting for me. Great, right? So I head down there to pick it up, only to find out the price has changed. It's more expensive now. When I asked how that was possible—since the old price is still listed online and that's what I ordered it for—they basically told me they changed it in the system maybe five minutes before I walked in, and there's nothing they can do about it. Well, since I was already standing there, I just shut up and paid. Bravo, Protis. Real professional..
Here's my experience at Best Buy 🙂
Ordered it a day ahead of time. It was set aside for me at $253 (the old price), then I went to grab it the next day, and the price was $267 (what they have online, in-store, everywhere $267). I got it the moment I walked in, using the date on the receipt for $253 because that's when I placed the order (I didn't even pay upfront, just told them I wanted it and asked if they could hold it for me)..
Links Warranty valid until 08/26/2011. It's fully functional and works perfectly. Just the bare card, no bundles included. Attaching a copy of the receipt here. link
If you can't just swap in a new one, there's really no point in trying to fix it. The laser is probably shot... Better off just grabbing a different printer and swapping it out...
It’s the easiest way, no headache, and they don't cost much more 124 miles than what we used to pay 😁
1. Just use your actual webcam (like a decent Logitech one) and make sure the drivers are actually installed correctly. 2. I’m not even going to go there.🙂 3. Good luck finding some random guy online who isn't lying about pixel counts and all that junk... 👍
Honestly? Just save yourself the headache and spend the cash on something from this list instead. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/webcam...ations/webcams
1. You're gonna need specific software to make that happen.. 2. And if you're actually taking photos, for heaven's sake, just buy a real camera. Even a basic digital one from Best Buy for like $110 is ten times better than a phone or—God forbid—a webcam.. 3. I mean, the whole point of a webcam is for video calls, right? What's the use of having some crazy high megapixel count on a webcam if your upload speed is a pathetic 50kbps?
Anthony Ramos6 said:For the GPU, I’d cap my budget at $167. I spotted a few 4850s on Craigslist for about 400-$167 from AMD, ASUS, or EVGA. I’m not a fan of the ASUS cards—too noisy for me. So, it's down to AMD or EVGA, unless I find something else in that tier.
It’s possible, sure. But if you don't have $117 for a decent power supply, why even bother buying a new rig? Honestly, trying to cut corners there is just asking for a headache. Plus, you’d probably end up with another weak PSU that can't even feed the CPU properly... It isn't about how many watts you have, it's about the quality... 👍
bluefalcon2 said:Maybe I can find a direct link for that fridge... Thinking about dropping a ton of cash since I've had this same PC for 5 years now....
Just look at what I was actually trying to spend money on, guys, 😂😂 there's just no comparison to your setups
James Hayes5 said:🙄 When you guys put together parts lists and give a total price, do you have to buy anything else besides the components? Like cables, connectors, or whatever else is needed to hook everything up inside the case? Or does it all come included with the parts so you don't need to buy extra stuff? 🤷😕
Sorry if that's a dumb question or if anyone takes offense, I just don't know so I'm asking.
The motherboard comes with a few cables and all that junk.. The power supply itself has all the cables you need to feed the components + that black cord that plugs into the wall... The GPU and everything else just plug into their slots, fans have their own wires that connect to the motherboard or PSU, and sometimes the GPU needs an extra power cable if you're using an older PSU Plus, the case comes with all the mounting hardware and panel bits..
I can't see any of the coolers... (p.s. okay, now I see what you mean) but it isn't really about what looks pretty, it’s about what actually works 👍
my picks for unknown would be the Mugen, A50, or A70.. hey, what you suggested is fine too, if you don't feel like dropping that kind of cash on a cooler..
but if you really want to blow that much money, I'd go with the Noctua C14 from $150 the PC hardware forums
@Bryan Evans77 text.. you shouted yourself hoarse and you're still standing.. how many games even use 6 cores???
My suggestion? Just don't go over about... $100 Skip the fridge. You don't even need it. Might be cheaper to just hunt for a deal on some forums—I actually snagged an AC freezer online for a steal. $33So, I flipped that one and grabbed a Scythe Ninja for 170. Then I turned the Ninja around for... $67 So I picked up a Scythe Mugen for $200, only to find out the exact same one is sitting on the shelf at Best Buy for way less. Seriously? $125)...
A monitor... hmm... any good ones out there for around $400?$500... Keep the change for later... why go all in at once? 👍
Yeah, think about that for a second...
So you won't even have enough left for a burger after the AC kicks in? 😬