Thanks for getting back to me👍 The whole thing seems to be a keyboard issue—it’s like some of the keys are just stuck or acting possessed or something. Basically, if I give the whole thing a good shake (honestly, I have no clue which specific ones are being difficult) the glitch disappears for a bit, but then out of nowhere, it starts acting up all over again. I don't even know how else to put it. Long story short, neither the left nor the right click is behaving properly either. Since the laptop is still under warranty, I'm just going to ship it off to the service center and let them deal with it. Thanks!👍
So, I’m running into some major headaches with my laptop. Every single time I boot it up, it kicks me straight into the BIOS, and I'm just stuck staring at that blinking little cursor next to the "save exit," "quit without saving," or "yes/no" options. No matter what button I mash, it eventually force-boots into the pre-installed macOS, but that’s where the real nightmare starts because the mouse clicks are acting totally possessed—sometimes a left click works, sometimes a right click works, and half the time, nothing happens at all. I even tried plugging in an external mouse to see if it was a hardware thing, but nope, same exact glitchy mess. When I try to dig into the settings to hit the recovery option and trigger a full system reset, I get hit with this error message: "We can't find the recovery environment. Please insert a Windows installation or recovery media and restart your computer using it." It used to just launch the reinstall process like nothing was wrong, but now it's completely bricked. This unit came with Windows 10 Home already baked in from the factory. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this mess? 😵
I've got this Palit GTX 1080 8GB just sitting here. Picked it up over in Germany back in September, and honestly, I'm trying to figure out what kind of cash I could actually pull for it. Tbh, I think the itch for a PS4 is starting to kick in again...😁
Jerry Morris2 said:I honestly don't know what else you're looking for. There are easily over 150 people in this footage alone, and they're all making quite a scene...
Look, I was just asking if there was a better clip out there. No need for the apologies or the excuses.😁
Thanks for getting back to me. I’ve been messing around with all sorts of different formats, and honestly, everything works perfectly fine except for that specific 1080p h.265 10-bit stuff. It isn't a total disaster right now, but my hard drive is absolutely packed with movies and series in that format. It’s way more efficient on storage space—way fewer gigabytes used compared to the old stuff—and my Samsung UHD TV handles it without breaking a sweat. I tried switching over to 720p 265 10-bit just to test things out, and that worked just fine. I even downloaded VLC thinking maybe it would be a magic fix, but nope, it still stutters like crazy on the 1080p 265 10-bit files. I’m going to dig through the settings one more time to see if there's anything I can tweak. If I can't get it to behave, I’m just gonna throw in the towel on that format and stick to downloading everything else instead 🙂
So, I’ve got this tablet, right? And look, I have a massive collection of movies and series saved in that specific high-res format—you know, 1080p, MPEG 10-bit. When I try to fire them up in MX Player, I actually get the picture and the audio working, but man, the video is just stuttering like crazy. It’s super choppy. I’ve spent way too much time digging through random fixes on Google, but nothing seems to do the trick. Is it even worth my time to keep messing around with this, or should I just call it quits? I can't tell if the bottleneck is the tablet itself, the processor, or what. A buddy of mine has this older Asus tablet that handles these files perfectly fine, so I'm thinking maybe it's just a software support issue. When I try to toggle the settings in MX Player to use Apple hardware acceleration or HW+, it just tells me it's not supported at the moment. Now I'm sitting here wondering if the issue is specifically with the iPad hardware. Here's the link to the tablet specs... https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.amazon.com/ipad-t3-10/amp/
The fans are beltin' out those classic Southern anthems, but the players? They're over there singing stuff from the North America instead... View on dailymotion
"I'm sound as a bell, though I wouldn't know about my own state of mind"🎉🎉🎉
Just dropped my PC off at the repair shop. The motherboard is acting up, and since I bought it through Best Buy, I’ve gotta figure out their whole shipping and RMA process to get this sorted. Man, who knows how long I’m gonna be stuck without my rig 🙂
I’m actually dropping off my buddy's rig tomorrow so he can take a crack at figuring out what's going on under the hood. Honestly, I've officially thrown in the towel—trying to troubleshoot this stuff is just driving me up the wall since I don't have a clue how it works.😁
Alright, I’m gonna snap some photos of everything and get them posted here in a sec. It's honestly tripping me out a bit that it's asking me about USB 1 partition and USB 2 partition. Hang tight, I'll have those pics up in just a minute.
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Down by the power button on the PC, there's this little red light glowing right underneath it.
Hey everyone. So, I ran into this annoying error about five days ago, and I finally managed to grab a Windows 10 installer on a USB drive. Usually, I can just breeze through a Windows installation via USB without any drama, so I’m a bit stumped here. I went into the BIOS, set the USB as the primary boot priority, and saved everything. But now, when I fire up the PC, the ASROCK logo pops up, the little loading icon spins for a while, and then... nothing. Just a totally blank screen. It's like the computer just gave up on life. Any ideas on what I should try next? My buddies who actually know their way around hardware are tied up right now, so I'm flying solo. A buddy of mine who's pretty tech-savvy helped me burn the Windows media, so I'm really hoping the drive itself isn't the culprit.
You guys clearly know what you're doing, but I'm still figuring it out, so if there's a difference of maybe a couple hundred bucks I’m leaning toward buying something brand new with a full warranty. Honestly, I think I might sign my new contract soon, grab a Professional card, and flip it. A buddy of mine would probably just buy it outright, but my whole goal is to maximize the profit so I can eventually swing a GTX 1060 6GB. Since he’s my buddy, I’d have to give him a deal, which means I’d end up short on cash for that 1060 6GB. And who knows when I'll get another shot at upgrading to a better GPU. It’s kind of a balancing act—my wife has her mobile plan, and then there's my portion for the Professional card, all while I'm piggybacking off her data plan to browse and game 😁 Back when we first started dating, I told her, "Look, honey, Champions League, La Liga, gaming, and having two TVs... those are the pillars of a happy marriage. Just stay out of it and everything will be fine." 😁 Thank God we're actually doing great 😍
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