neontrucker30 said:So, if I’m getting this right, I just run the installer, and once I hit the partition screen, I basically just wipe everything out, click "new," and it’ll just automatically format itself as NTFS?
Yeah, pretty much. Just delete all those partitions until you're left with one big chunk of unallocated space, then hit next on that last one and you should be good to go...
Drew Allen77 said:Basically, Windows just makes that system partition, and honestly, you can just wipe it during the install process since a new one will just get generated anyway.
But yeah, Windows 10 also goes ahead and creates a recovery partition too.
I mean, you probably just cleared your cookies or maybe you've got that auto-delete setting turned on for them... I guess you should just try resetting Chrome back to the factory defaults... there's an option for that tucked away in the advanced settings somewhere
Windows just generates those automatically during a fresh install when you go ahead and format the partition... I mean, I'm thinking he probably wiped them out right before hitting next...
Just a heads-up, you really shouldn't go deleting those recovery and system partitions that Windows creates... I mean, they're pretty vital, I guess. And just so you know, Windows can be super picky about having other operating systems sitting alongside it... if you've got Ubuntu on those other partitions, you're probably gonna have to convert them over to an NTFS file system while you're inside Ubuntu, or maybe just wipe them out entirely when you run the Windows installation...
First off, you should probably try plugging that drive into every single USB port you've got available... honestly, it might just be that one specific port is acting up or totally dead. Second, please, for the love of god, don't go trying to rescue your data with all those random, sketchy free apps you find online. Seriously, if one of those half-baked programs messes things up halfway through, even ten other apps won't be able to fix the damage they caused. Third, there’s actually a professional data recovery firm out in Chicago that specializes in exactly this kind of thing. I mean, if it's just a simple electronics issue, they can handle it, but if the hardware itself is fried... well, sometimes people talk about dunking the drive in some kind of specialized liquid to get a tiny window of time to read the data before it's gone forever and tossed in the trash. But hey, if it's already shot, it's probably a lost cause anyway. The company is called Infolab...
Honestly, if you're just looking for the absolute cheapest GPU that can push a 4K resolution on a 4K monitor... just grab something basic, install Ryse: Son of Rome, and enjoy the ride. I mean, maybe that's the only thing you actually need this setup for anyway. Most games being released these days are straight-up garbage from a graphical standpoint—just unoptimized trash that demands a high-end rig while delivering zero actual detail. Seriously, Sacred 1 from ages ago looks better than 99% of modern titles when you actually look at the visuals. Everything nowadays is just slapped together, heavily processed digitally, and then you get stuck with some bloated hundred-gigabyte file that's a total disaster both visually and in terms of gameplay. So, I guess you should really think about whether you even want to be throwing your hard-earned cash at stuff like this in a country that's basically teetering on the edge of bankruptcy...
Do you even see the volume icon sitting in your system tray? If you do, just try right-clicking it and hitting that troubleshoot problems option, assuming the icon is actually showing up there in the first place... I mean, if the icon isn't appearing at all, then you’d probably have to dig through the Control Panel, go into Hardware and Sound, and look for the troubleshooting tools there...
ambergull said:Greetings, I find myself facing a bit of a dilemma.
For the past few days, whenever I boot up my PC, I am greeted by a BSOD stating: "A problem has occurred and Windows has shut down to prevent damage."
The error message also indicates whether this is the first time the system has crashed since booting; if it is, I simply restart the machine... At which point, everything seems to function perfectly fine for the remainder of the day until I eventually power it down. Then, come the next morning, the exact same cycle repeats itself.
I am currently running Windows 10 Home. I haven't installed any new software recently, and I have already performed several scans using various antivirus and anti-spyware tools.
Does anyone have any insight into how I might resolve this?
Next time you see that BSOD popping up, maybe grab a pen and jot down that error code at the bottom of the screen—you know, that thing starting with zero x followed by a bunch of numbers... then once the computer is actually working again, just Google that specific code and look through some online forums to see what people are saying about it...
Anonymous said:Maybe I wasn't being clear enough about what's going on here. Like, when I switch the output over to my TV, everything works fine and the sound comes through. But then, as soon as I turn off the TV and set the default back to my speakers—total silence. Even though the volume mixer, or whatever you call that little slider next to each icon, shows that audio is actually playing... it’s bouncing up and down like crazy, but there’s just zero sound coming out.
Check if you have some kind of mute toggle somewhere or maybe a physical knob for the volume? Have you tried running the troubleshooter yet? Just right-click that speaker icon, hit troubleshoot, and select speakers.
If you're running on Windows, just right-click that little speaker icon in your taskbar, hit sound, and see if your speakers even show up in the list of devices at all... if they do, just set them as your default... if they aren't there, I guess you should probably pop open the Control Panel, head over to Administrative Tools, then Device Manager, and check if there’s anything sitting there with a yellow exclamation mark that might be your missing speakers...
uh, by the way, if you actually caught something nasty, an adblocker isn't really gonna save your skin. I mean, you should probably grab some decent anti-malware software plus a solid antivirus and just run a full scan on your whole computer with both of them. If you're wondering which one is actually worth the hype, I guess you could look at what Opswat says since they basically do the official reviews, and they have this app called Gears that I’d highly recommend installing. It’ll basically just scan your system once a day using like 40 different anti-threat tools and let you know if there's any reason to start freaking out...
Usually, you’re seeing that error because someone messed with the MAC address on the network card. Or, I guess, maybe they just swapped out the whole computer entirely. Honestly, the fix is pretty straightforward—just pull the plug on your modem, let it sit there for maybe 30 seconds or so, and then power it back up. Another way to handle it would be to just revert the MAC address back to whatever it was before, which is usually just the factory default. You can typically find those settings tucked away in your BIOS or directly within the OS under the network adapter settings. If you actually happen to know what the original address was, you could always just grab an app like SMAC 2.0 or something similar to force the change back.
I'm guessing you're running on integrated graphics that just pull memory straight from the system... maybe you could try going into the UEFI and capping it at something like 512 MB...
wiredmarlin47 said:Yeah, I set it to the highest one.
I was just asking because I figured maybe those old CRT monitors could get damaged if the resolution or frequency—something like that—was cranked up too high... can't quite remember...
It depends, I guess... I used to have this 22" CRT that could technically handle a 2048*1536 resolution, but man, everything looked tiny and the refresh rate was absolutely abysmal... For me, the sweet spot was probably 1600*1200 at 100 Hz... generally, the higher the refresh rate, the better... though if you're working with an old, beat-up CRT, maybe it makes sense to dial the refresh rate back a little, but I wouldn't go any lower than 60 Hz.
silvertiger19 said:I don't have an installation CD or even a USB drive on hand right now
Well, you can just head over to the Microsoft help site and grab the Media Creation Tool... once you've got that tool, you can download the Windows files, get everything official and all that...
I mean, obviously, that's assuming you actually have another computer handy... because if you don't have a second PC, you're probably gonna have to lug your stuff over to a repair shop somewhere
Looks like your resolution got messed up... maybe something went sideways with your graphics card or the drivers? I'd say just head over to your display settings and try to set it back to what it was before...