Posts by Benjamin King2

I guess I was a bit vague when I was talking about the processor and the graphics card—everyone’s got their own $233 opinion, I suppose. I definitely didn't think they were worth that much combined. 🙂

All those configuration posts for briskhound13 have been moved over here:

CPU and GPU combo—around $700
RAM—roughly $600 to $700
PSU—maybe $250

As for the motherboard... honestly, it’s hard to pin down—you'll probably only find a buyer if they're specifically hunting for an SLI setup. If that's the case, someone might cough up maybe $500$200 for it, but if they're just running a single card? Then that board isn't worth much of their time at all.

The picture probably tells the story better than I can. 🙂

http://avstop.com/ac/flighttrainghandbook/imagehu5.jpg

You’ve got joysticks that actually let you control things by twisting the stick itself—you know, rotating it on its own axis—rather than just mashing a bunch of buttons.

This thing works just as well for lefties as it does for righties:

Back in the day at Micro Center, they used to carry the Thrustmaster T.16000M—which was also ambidextrous—but you can't find it in the lineup anymore.

The only real catch is that Logitech (and that Logitech controller too) lacks any way to handle rudder control unless you're using the buttons.

In reality, they’re pulling about 180W.

Check the manufacturer's site to see if they have any software available—though I wouldn't hold my breath—since, from what I can tell, we're dealing with an ancient Socket 754 motherboard here.

So, yeah—if you do the math, giving yourself a little breathing room, we're looking at about 200W per card. You’re gonna need a 1kW power supply, something like this: >

Honestly, you aren't going to find anything cheaper without buying some absolute junk that'll probably fry your rig.

Not gonna happen. If it isn't there, it simply isn't there—not every motherboard out there is actually built for overclocking.

ironcanyon7 said:I need it for mining—honestly, that PC would have the absolute worst processor anyway. I just really need a power supply that hits at least 1000W.

Bitcoin? The price difference isn't even that big—we're talking maybe $300ish (+/- 20), and you can easily pick $667 up right here in the States.

A Logitech F310 joystick $20 is honestly hard to call "good" in any capacity—it’s just not there. You really want something better than that? How about this instead:

Or are those DVDs just completely trashed?

Noah Cook6 said:What are the best 2.5" portable drives out there for professional work? I’ve looked into Western Digital—their Seagate mini 1 TB model goes for about $567—but I actually need something a bit more entry-level than that. Any recommendations for something in the 1-2 TB range?

Honestly, why not just grab an external enclosure and pop in whatever drive you actually want?

Paul Cox52 said:I'm looking for an external drive for home use—roughly 1 to 2 TB.
I'm no expert, so feel free to correct me if my logic is off here:
- A 3.5" drive should be fine for what I need, right?
- If I buy a USB 3.0 drive, it'll still work on an older motherboard (USB 2.0), right?
- A faster drive will still perform better even if my connection is limited by an old USB port.
I found this one over at http://www.amazon.com/product/example for a pretty decent price. Is it worth it?

Look, 3.5" doesn't mean "better"—it's just physics. It refers to the size of the actual platters inside; bigger platters hold more data. Smaller ones—like the 2.5" variety—are usually what you find in laptops because they take up less space.

The drive isn't going to magically run faster on a USB 2.0 connector since it lacks the bandwidth of USB 3.0; in fact, it'll be slower. Though, if you're just storing movies and photos, you probably won't notice the speed difference. Even if your computer doesn't have USB 3.0, just buy the USB 3.0 version anyway.

That link you posted is just a bare internal drive, not an external unit. You could go this route instead:

1 TB: http://www.bestbuy.com/product/example

or

2 TB: http://www.bestbuy.com/product/example2

My bad, I probably misclicked or something... anyway, that monitor setup doesn't actually tell us anything useful—it’s basically useless info. Either ask them to give you the actual specs (and I mean specifically, not just some vague "Dual Core Intel 5400 and a 1GB card" nonsense) or just cross it off your list entirely. You aren't going to get much gaming done on a GT 630, let's be real. That one with the GTX 260 is decent enough, but honestly? It's definitely not worth the asking price.

You posted the exact same link—look, the PC isn't bad, but it’s definitely not worth two cents. I should probably let Oscar know that his graphics card is actually worth about... $133Maybe nudge that price down just a hair—$1,600 would be more in the ballpark. 🙂

Not gonna happen—piracy talk is strictly off-limits on this forum. You’re better off asking whoever installed those bootleg Windows on your machine.

Honestly, pick whichever one you want—x64 doesn't really matter here.

Western Digital won't give you any kind of warranty if you didn't grab the drive from an authorized retailer or distributor.

You should probably give this a shot—try hitting F2 to get into the BIOS and see if you can tweak the boot order in there. Also, look for an option for network boot or "boot from LAN" and set that to disabled; that should stop that annoying PXE error from popping up on your screen.

So, what’s the actual model number we're dealing with here? It should be printed somewhere on the chassis—check the bottom or under the battery—or you can just pull up the system info on the desktop to find the exact designation.