Well, Andrew Murphy5, you nailed it. ;D Now you just need to make sure you blow the dust out of that GPU and keep an eye on the temps to be safe. If your budget 😁 allows for it, honestly, maybe start looking at a new card. This one’s getting old and probably can't handle the heavy lifting anymore...
Carl Cox3, it's 90% likely a driver issue, though overheating could be playing a part too. You should try a clean reinstall of your graphics drivers. If you know how to do that, great—if not, just let us know which card you're running and someone will walk you through it...
You're in the right spot if someone actually gives you an answer 😁
Maybe you'll have better luck on Android, so give that a shot. You should also cross-post this over to the Tablet section—there's a crowd there who might actually know what they're talking about. Honestly, nothing smart is coming to mind right now 😁
Is it possible you've got a compatibility issue? If that's the cable that came with the Samsung Galaxy Tab A, maybe it's running some lower USB standard that your PC just isn't picking up. They're supposed to be backwards compatible, but you can never really tell with this stuff. Also, did you test it with a basic file? Make sure you aren't trying to move some music or video file that has built-in DRM or some software protection you don't even know about. Who knows what kind of nonsense is baked into Windows these days...
I’ve been scrolling through this thread for a while, so I figured I’d finally jump in and weigh in. 😁
I haven't devoured every single word here—though I got most of it—so my bad if this has already been covered. From what I've seen, things can get messy when you try to install a new version of Catalyst drivers without completely wiping the old ones first. I also remember hearing about some issues where the Radeon HD 7560 D would act up if the BIOS was too outdated.
I don't know the specifics of your situation, but my advice is to have your buddy fully uninstall Catalyste first and just stick with the basic VGA driver. The display might look a little wonky, but the system shouldn't crash or freeze, which is exactly what you need to safely handle the next step: updating the BIOS. You should be able to find the latest BIOS version for your motherboard on the ASRock website, and there's usually an app to make the update easier.
Once that's done, you can go ahead and reinstall Catalyste. Just a heads-up, though: sometimes the absolute latest version of Catalyst comes with its own set of bugs. If you want to play it safe, maybe install the version right before the newest one instead...
FYI, it isn't a massive undertaking; you can probably knock it all out in thirty minutes to an hour. Hopefully, that clears everything up...
Man, seriously... everyone saying they have the same issue? That’s not good. If these are new machines and still under warranty, why haven't you called someone to fix this yet?
It could still be multiple things, but I don't get why the PS/2 ports for the keyboard and mouse aren't working at all. In my long career, I've never run into anything like this. The fact that it's happening to all of you is insane; it basically means:
1. All the machines have motherboards from the same bad batch. 2. Every single mouse is part of a faulty shipment. 3. There's some massive compatibility issue between the Logitech RX 250 and the version of Windows you're running.
RE:|
1. Go to the Logitech website, register your gear, and look for tech support. They might actually know what's going on.
2. Even though you shouldn't have to, try installing Logitech Setpoint on one machine—it's Logitech's app for controlling mice and keyboards. Just make sure you grab the exact version meant for your specific Windows build.
(The Download section, right under the mouse image)
3. Check this out; Logitech actually admits there's an issue here. If this is it, call whoever supplied your computers and demand they swap out the keyboards and mice because you can't get any work done. And regardless of this headache, stick with Logitech next time. Don't let them sell you some cheap junk; stick to Logitech and avoid Genius—it's just cheaper, lower-quality stuff.
You're wrong. Most people just grab what matters, toss it onto a USB drive, and sync everything up with their computer. Or use iCloud, OneDrive, whatever—you can secure that stuff pretty easily if you actually try.
Alternatively, just use an SD card. You can keep it tucked in your laptop so it doesn't stick out like a thumb drive, and there are plenty of fast 32GB ones that won't break the bank...
The reason I asked about the specific model is because some laptops can be fixed with a software patch, but yours clearly isn't one of them. Yours is basically a glorified space heater 😁 so you better figure out a way to bail your data before you drop it off at the repair shop. As for waiting around for them to clean it, that only works if you find a technician willing to do it on the spot. 😁 Just try to cut a deal with them; it’s the same deal you get at a local mechanic. If you watch how fast they finish, you know they aren't overcharging you, but if you aren't standing right there, they can tell you whatever story they want. 😁
You can check here to see how long the job takes, or even look into doing it yourself if you're confident you won't end up with a handful of leftover screws. 😁
1. This is a desktop, right? 2. Is the screen non-touch? 3. Give me the exact mouse and keyboard models: 4. Check Device Manager—are there any yellow or red warnings, question marks, or X's next to anything? 5. What specifically does Device Manager list for the mouse and keyboard? 6. Have you installed any specific drivers for the mouse and keyboard? 7. Which USB port are you using—one on the motherboard or one on the case? 8. Are you using a USB extension cable? If so, what's the spec printed on it (1.0, 1.1, 2.0...)? 9. Since it’s failing with the green connector, are you testing it with the same USB mouse and green adapter, or a different mouse? 10. Can you test the mouse and keyboard on another computer, or try a different set on your current PC if you have one handy? 11. You said the mouse is USB, but how is the keyboard connected? 12. Also, check the USB ports in Device Manager. See which ones are installed (1.x, 2.x, or 3.x) and if there are any errors, similar to what I asked in step 4.
Forget the technical specs; you can write whatever nonsense you want on paper 😁 Just narrow it down to the big brands—they rarely let themselves get away with making cheap junk. And what about the mic? You said you weren't interested in one. If you are looking at headphones with a built-in mic, the smartest move (not necessarily the best quality, but you'd need to test them or find someone with actual experience to know that) is just to go with whatever comes with your phone. Those are usually optimized for what you need.
First off, I don't get how you can trust a single hard drive with all your important files without having a backup set up. That’s just asking for trouble.
Go grab a cheap external USB drive—even a used one from Best Buy would work—and copy everything vital onto it. Make sure you actually double-check that the transfer worked. Once you're sure, wipe the data off your laptop and run a defrag to try and prevent anyone from recovering those deleted files. Look, defragging isn't a foolproof way to scrub data, but you'd have to be an actual forensic expert to recover anything after that, and I doubt anyone's going through all that effort.
After that, take the laptop in for a cleaning. If it's never been opened up, it definitely needs it. Also, you really should have specified the exact model, the processor, and so on. It would also help if you ran some temperature monitoring software and posted a screenshot or at least told me the actual numbers. Saying a laptop "gets really hot" is uselessly vague; it depends on a million different things.
And I'm assuming you're keeping the laptop on a hard, flat surface so the vents can actually breathe?
I think he’s just incredibly lucky that it even works at all. These things are short-range gadgets; they aren't built for long distances. There’s zero guarantee any random guy you pick up is going to have success with this—it's trial and error. He could try using a USB extension cable to get the transmitter closer, though. And he needs to realize that pushing the range will absolutely murder his battery life. He'll be stuck charging it or swapping batteries constantly.
They’ll work just fine, no issues there. But honestly, nobody can tell you exactly how they're going to sound until you actually put them on and try them out. If I were in your shoes, I'd rather shell out a few extra bucks and grab some entry-level gear from a name brand you actually know: Sony, Panasonic, JVC, Philips, or Sennheiser... you can usually find them for around $60$23, maybe even less. At least with those, you know they'll get the job done. Plus, they're everywhere—you can find them at any electronics store, or even just grabbing something quick at Kroger, Walmart, Aldi, or Best Buy.
Check out the last three links in this post and then hunt for something similar at your local shops.
It could be a dozen different things. It would really help if you let me know if this is happening while you're watching a movie directly from the external drive or just when accessing files on your PC. If it’s stuttering while you're playing a movie off the drive, you probably just need to defragment it. Over time, as you use a drive, it gets messy because data isn't written in a perfect line—it gets scattered across the platters since the drive head just writes wherever it finds an open spot to stay fast. The more you use it, the more those segments get split up, and the harder the drive has to work to pull them all together during playback. Just go to "This PC," right-click that external drive, and select "Defragment and Optimize Drives" under the Tools tab. This is a non-destructive process, so don't worry about losing your data, but while it's running (which can take a while depending on the size and speed of the drive—sometimes several hours), make sure you don't lose power or try to do anything intensive on the computer that hits the drive hard. That'll just slow down the whole thing. So, while it's working, don't try to watch movies or run heavy tasks, but I guess you can still suffer through some web browsing or whatever...
Your color profile is totally off. You need to run a color calibration. You can calibrate each piece of gear individually—your monitor, scanner, printer—but you’ll get much better results if you calibrate the whole workflow together. The best way is to scan something, print it out, then scan that print again to see where the discrepancy lies. Pros use specialized hardware and dedicated software for this; it’s an investment, but if you're serious about this work, it pays off.
Try digging up a specific color profile for your printer or hunting down some calibration files tailored to your exact model here:
Not enough data here. If he’s copying and pasting this stuff incorrectly, the service is useless. Just try printing some plain text you just typed up in Notepad and let me know how it goes. Also, check if you're actually out of black toner.
You aren't going to notice any real difference in memory speed. Honestly, you probably won't even know if they're hitting their max potential. Just grab a 2x4GB kit; it's better because of the dual-channel controller, but even then, it's not like you'll actually feel it.
As for the build, the power supply is massive overkill. For everything else, just wait for someone else to chime in.
Oh, yeah—that monitoring feature basically means you can wake the PC remotely via Wake-on-LAN. Once it's up, you can take control via remote desktop and act like you're sitting right there. You could even watch TV if you have a TV tuner card or check your cameras if they're hooked up.
It depends on how you define "cheap." If you’re looking for something long-term and sound quality actually matters to you, I don't think you'll find anything better or more budget-friendly than these Sennheiser headphones on sale.
Take a look through B&H Photo Video to check out different models, then hit up some price comparison sites to find the best deal. Honestly, if you stick with top-tier brands like Sennheiser, Audio-Technica, Bose, B&W, H/K, Onkyo, JBL, or Beyerdynamic, you're golden. Even if you go with more affordable options like JVC, Panasonic, or Sony, it's hard to go wrong.
If you're really watching every cent, you might want to check out Audio-Technica models, Sony, or even Philips.
Give me a break, don't say stuff like that unless you want people to think you actually know what you're talking about. What do you mean "fans"? If you had fifty of them, the power supply would just kick them all to the curb...
That file is being used by Norton Antivirus; it keeps generating it to store its own data. Honestly, I don't see why it bothers you so much. The fact that the file is there just means you have that Norton Antivirus suite—the one for protection, speed-up, and cleaning—active on your machine because you chose to install it. I find it hard to believe you installed it by accident alongside something else, since the actual installer walks you through specific prompts you have to agree to first...
Yeah, honestly, plenty of people slap a bunch of fans in their rigs without actually setting them up right, so the air just sits there stagnant. Of course it's going to overheat. The easiest way to check if heat is the culprit is to pop the side panel off, blow out any visible dust—be careful and make sure the PC is powered down first—and just leave it open to get some decent airflow. If it keeps crashing after that, then we know it's not the temps, and we can start looking elsewhere...