Posts by darkowl72

graniteharbor85 said:Did you try installing these drivers too?

I didn't see him mention if he's even running 64-bit Windows...

Could be a driver issue? Try running Windows Update to see if it grabs anything, or just head over here...

Try plugging it into something else... a desktop or a laptop... and get all those cables, power strips, and extra electronics away from it. Just plug it directly into the wall outlet itself.

Hey guys, give him my best and tell him he needs to go back to school... 😬

Your PSU is solid enough to handle pretty much any GPU you pick, and they'll all fit into your build just fine...

Otherwise, the HD 6870 is slightly better:

http://www.hwcompare.com/6024/radeon...adeon-hd-6870/

If it won't let you tweak the other FSB:DRAM ratios, then you're just hitting a wall with that motherboard's limitations and the whole mess of mixing DDR2 and DDR3. Honestly, I wouldn't know—I've never owned a board like that...

Unfortunately, with those mixed motherboard kits, you never really know until you actually try it. Honestly, though, just grab the 4GB setup—RAM is dirt cheap these days anyway...

Look, different speeds and latencies aren't a dealbreaker as long as the sticks are compatible and don't clash with each other or the board. Both should just settle into whatever the slower stick's settings are.

But what kind of RAM are you even running right now? You're telling me it's DDR3 but it's stuck at 800MHz? You need to show your rig some respect, specifically by messing with the FSB:DRAM ratio...

🙂 one expert is taking on another one 😬

Scott Rodriguez65 said:It specifically says dual Channel DDR2 1066, which means you've got two slots and each one tops out at 4 GB. So, 2x 4 GB gives you 8 GB total. If you're looking to grab 4 GB of RAM, just pick up a 4 GB 1066 MHz stick, make sure it's DDR2, and tell them you want a receipt so you can return it if it doesn't work.

That wouldn't work...

7% difference? On what, 60fps? That’s like 4.2fps... you wouldn't even notice...

And besides, GameDebate isn't exactly a gold standard for anything. If you actually want to compare those two cards, go check HWCompare instead. You'll see the 7-series only has a slightly higher memory bandwidth (7%), while the 6-series actually beats it in both texel and pixel fill rates—which makes sense since it has more shaders and TMUs. So asking "which one is better" is a massive stretch, especially for such a tiny percentage. You also have to factor in the CPU and the specific game being played, since different titles will lean on the hardware differently...

http://www.hwcompare.com/11774/radeo...adeon-hd-7750/

Passive cooling and performance are inversely proportional. Figure out which one you actually care about more.

It died on me.

http://www.testfreaks.co.uk/printers/brother-hl-5340d/
http://www.testfreaks.co.uk/printers...ulaser-m2300d/

http://www.hwcompare.com/3011/geforc...adeon-hd-4730/

Look, darkowl72, quit talking nonsense. LC Power supplies are actually decent if they’re from the GP3 series, just like Joshua Ramos14 already told you.

I’d also throw a few Chieftec units into the mix. They’re cheap, but honestly, they're damn good power supplies.

Check out this power supply on Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/p/power-supply-units
Check out this power supply on Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/p/power-supplies
Check out this power supply on Amazon.

Look, that thing is just a photocopier. It’s built for massive offices that need to churn out huge volumes of black and white copies...

Personally, I’d lean toward OKI. They’ve always been solid printers—cheap hardware, cheap toner, and most models come with built-in networking. For years, they've been a total "best buy" because the print quality is great and the cost per page is low...

They used to be hard to find here in the States, but it looks like they switched distributors or something changed recently, because now Staples has a killer selection of both printers and accessories...

Check out the Brother HL-Series and the HP LaserJet, for example... the specs on the Brother HL-Series say it can pull 220gsm paper through the manual feed tray, it's pretty fast, and the price is actually ridiculous at $1,500 given what you get...

And the HP LaserJet is an A3 model that’s picked up a ton of praise: http://www.pcpro.co.uk/reviews/print...6044/oki-c810n

http://www.diskont24.com/product.php?productid=104417

There's already a thread about desktop power supplies, but just a heads-up: wattage isn't everything. Brand matters just as much. For instance, a 520W Seasonic unit might actually be a better bet than an EVGA 550W one from Micro Center... so, where do you guys usually shop?

The GPU isn't the issue here. You need to get into the BIOS... try tapping the "Del" key on your numpad while it boots up.

Yeah. If you're looking for some love, check this one out:

It's solid, and honestly, one of the few that actually includes a dedicated headphone amp...

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/a...ar_dg_review/1

So you finally figured out what I told you ten posts ago? Great. Better late than never, I guess... 😬

Grab the drivers here, I found them for this version: http://driverscollection.com/?H=CMI8...a&SS=Windows 7

Watch out, though—don't click on anything saying "Run a free scan..." or "Update drivers and improve..." That's just junk that makes everything more complicated and nobody actually uses it. On that page, just click where it says "Download C-Media CMI8738 Beta Driver v.8.17.37" and leave it at that...

Restart your PC, go into the BIOS, and disable the onboard audio. Shut the computer down, pop the case open, install the card, and close it back up. Once you boot it back up, run that installer you downloaded. And look, don't go thinking this is some magic fix; your sound card is ancient and honestly, it's total garbage. You might even end up with worse sound quality than what you're getting from your integrated audio right now. Aside from the quality, it's mostly about the signal strength—this dedicated card should give you a stronger output for your speakers or headphones, so it might be decent enough for starters.

Plus, you could just check Craigslist for used sound cards. Grab an old Creative Sound Blaster for $17 and you'll have a solid setup for whatever you need...

I reckon this one hits all the requirements rustysurfer79 laid out. Honestly, who cares about variable speed when you’ve got variable temperature control? Check the PDF—it's got metal gears, heated silicone rollers, a heavy-duty motor... Rentz has been in the game forever and they make solid gear. That said, maybe rustysurfer79 has some better suggestions? He's still in the industry while I've moved on, so he probably knows what's actually happening on the ground right now.

When it comes to laminating films specifically, I'm completely out of the loop. It's been way too long... 😬